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Had a KS-12 in the shop with receiver/carrier alignment issues, and although the fit and finish is generally much better than the Russian export models, KS-12s clearly aren't immune to these issues. Lynx seems to attempt to address cycling issues with generally weaker springs, a blackjack type recoil buffer at the rear of the receiver, and a couple of extra gas settings. Once again it looks like yet another manufacturer is applying band-aids and Appalachian engineering to address problems inherent in the engineering and assembly issues copied from the originals. Receiver alignm

You're right. However, I have limits just like anyone else. I needed to hear that and I sincerely appreciate it.

Evl, why you're letting a troll bother you I can't figure out. That's outta character for you.

"ive had -2-3 russian shotguns over the years that would run birdshot without futziing around. i shoulda kept 2 of them. they were just so buttery smooth! and light recoiling. not sure what made those guns so perfect. i guess they were just perfectly in sync". So true! The biggest issue with Russian shotguns and their many recent clones has always been that the way the parts fit and work together in the real world is often very different than the workings the engineers envisioned when they designed these guns. What is baffling is that with nearly every clone produced, regard

Now that is cutting to the chase, yeah have seen some of those old steel gas cylinders used for bells and they work surprisingly well due to the quality of materials. Grandma had one to call in the men folk from the field for lunch and supper, shows in some old pictures but was gone by the time I landed on the planet.

I used to work on elevators, and sometimes had to have large brass ring gears made. I found that spin casting made the best ring gears. Like a bell, voids and uneven flows make bad gears. You could make a mold spinner from an old axle end with a wheel on it, and spin it with a belt and slow speed motor. Good luck to you, wear leathers and a full face mask - and the mold MUST be heat dried, as the SMALLEST bit of moisture WILL cause an EXPLOSION. That was the first thing I was taught when learning to pour babbit bearings.

I've done casting of various things. IMO practice on smaller castings first. Get a lot of green sand. Purify your metals a bunch. Have way more melt than you need. Bells are particular for needing to not have voids. I think one of those vibrators that they use for cement, which have basically a sawzall body as the motor could help a lot with doing large castings. Also preheating your mold. The real tricky thing with large castings is having enough thermal mass that all the metal can flow in, fill out all the detail, and out the vents and the bubbles get out before the metal starts to thicken a