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chris installed an ak bullet guide he doesn't agree with css design, warned against using a screw for this mod, said the location of the hole is also incorrect I'm happy thanks guys by the way he's a really nice guy and pleasure to work with

if you are getting hung up about 1/2" before complete close, look at the feed ramp or trunnion. does it have metal on metal rubbings? might need to polish the ramp. a bullet guide may be too thick for a smooth transition of the bolt carrier.

I agree, send the gun back and let them fix or replace. Locking while move the bolt carrier back might be uneven rails...Not positive that is the issue, I purchased a Saiga and one rail was installed incorrectly by the factory. This caused the bolt carrier to jam up when the carrier was pulled toward the rear of the gun by hand. If you have access to calipers or a friend who is a machinist ask them to take some measurements to verify the position is correct. Only my 2 cents

Now I understand. Have you fired a mag through it? Does it cycle fine once it chambers a round and fires? Still think it is a hang up between the bolt carrier and hammer. With that being said I have had more than one firearm from Classic Arms needing work. I have stopped doing business with them after the second. I would send it back and let them fix it.

That's not me in the video. The bolt gets intermittently hung when pulling it back. Sometimes it flies freely, sometimes it just gets binded somehow about 1/2 inch back from the chamber face.It looks like most people have problems with the bolt sliding forward. My problem is when I'm pulling it back.

It would appear you babied the first round when releasing the bolt forward. On the second attempt you racked it back and let it fly, which is what you should do. I don't see a problem here. If the firearm has a Tapco G2 trigger installed, which is what I would expect from a Classic Saiga conversion, the bolt ride over the hammer can sometimes be severe. This can allow the bolt to hang on the hammer. If it does not go into full battery when you pull back and let it fly, I would profile to hammer until it does. Just my 2cents.

Is the chamber clear? Could there be a broken chamber flag stub in the barrel getting in the way? You can try taking out the bolt and carrier and looking for abnormal wear or excessive missing paint. If you don't see anything obviously wrong, reassemble, pull back the charging handle and let it fly forward at full speed several times(don't ride it forward). Does it still hang up? Dissamble and look for new wear on the bolt, carrier, rails etc. Feel free to post photos or videos here as this community is very knowledgeable and helpful but it's hard to give suggestions without seeing

Good move. I'm sure he'll do a fantastic job for you!

chris recommends riveting the guide, going to send the saiga down to him, seems like a nice guy

To add to the above, yeah, you may just wanna cut a little piece of pipe for the bullet guide and have a gunsmith weld it in there instead. May cost a little more, but you have a little more security if its welded vs a red locktite screw, and the replacement piece would completely cover the hole you drilled. but if you wanna fiddle around with different screws instead, that will probably work just as well.

Just to add a different viewpoint, you may also want to consider eating the cost of taking it to a good gunsmith. After the error, you're now out of the realm of the standard conversion and may want to reevaluate the risk/cost of having someone with experience take it from here. I'm not suggesting that you aren't capable of handling this yourself, and if you pull it off you'll have a great feeling, but if something goes wrong you may wish you sought professional help. Not speaking to your case specifically, but I'm always amazed that people are more than willing to put a $100 do-dad ont

Keep your head-up! This stuff happens to all of us. You could use a 6MM tap, which is .014 of an inch smaller than a 6MM .236. Easier to find a 1/4/-20 screws than metric screws in most cases. You can grind down the head (from the hex hole side of the screw) on a socket head cap screw. Grind the top of the screw where you use the allen wrench to tighten the screw. Leave enough material to tighten the screw and the head thick enough to hold the guide in place. Not much pressure, just used as a loading ramp... Drill hole to .201 are slightly larger to use 1/4 inch hardware.

I believe 3/16 screws are obsolete and were replaced with 10-XX screws. The closest size which is a 10-32 screw requires a number 21 (.1590) drill bit which is way undersize since your hole is already at 3/16 (.1875). No screw in the 10-XX to 12-XX would work. Your best bet would be to go up to a 1/4-20 machine screw which uses a #7 drill (.2010) Another option is to use a metric screw with a drill size closest to your existing hole. Another option is to use a rivet inserted from the bottom of the trunnion and bucking plates to fill the space between the trunnion and the rec

Not true if you own a 223 Saiga,. SGM 223 mags fit and function great straight out of the box with no modding required. Well, this is in the 7.62x39 forum.

They're junk. Install a bullet guide and buy Combloc surplus magazines. You can spend the same and less on higher quality steel magazines. That's just my opinion tho.

The gas block metal is not too hard and is easy to file. Be patient and take your time. I alternated between holding the gas block and moving the file, and holding the file and moving the gas block. After the corners were formed, I switched to a flat file. I do not recommend using a rotary tool or Dremel. When you are done, the hole in the gas block should look something like this. Make sure both the gas tube and barrel bores are free from any rough edges. IMPORTANT! Ensure you remove any/all metal shaving and any other contaminants from the gas block before attempting r