zone1935

Didn't the Enquirer break the Edwards story? I know, I know, something and a dog's rear end and the sun. Here, I know they aren't the post or the times. http://www.edmondsun.com/statenews/local_s..._233112751.html http://www.news-star.com/statenews/x122299...-to-create-list http://www.tulsaworld.com/news/article.asp...62&allcom=1 http://newsok.com/gun-tests-may-solve-wele.../?tm=1219122376 reason for edit: posting some article links.

Cameron, just wondering on the progress of the other parts in the system. I was hoping to save my pennies on the kit without the top rail, I want to retain use of the iron sights. BTW, the part looks AWSOME mounted.

+1 on the 7.62. Although you might want to consider if there is a possibility of using it to hunt in the future. I know that I would kick myself if I got a 7.62 and in a few years got to go on a hunt where the 308 would have been perfect. Bottom line is that you should enjoy the heck out of either one.

And phase one of the Dems gun registration goes into effect........ Not to mention that the government now has "submitted" foresnic evdience on those handguns for future harassment of law abiding citizens.

Just want everyone know we now have "Chaos product review" button on our website home page, so feel free to submit your reviews, we working on a "customer showcase" area on our website where customers can show off their builds.Thank you for continued support. That is a really cool idea. What better way to showcase your products than on customers' saigas.

Ok, the easiest way I have found to think of is. When you hold the sight on the bullseye, the weapon fires where the barrel is pointing. So, you will want to move the front sight post so that if the weapon does not move,the sights would line up with the point of impact on the target. Thus, the sights will now line you up with where the bullets are going. Exactually like Bvamp decribed.

I'm curious, what was the major complaint? I have owned an 835 and an 870, I currently own a 500 slug, a converted s-12, and a Charles Daly semi-auto. I never had a problem with any of them.

I own 2 SKS's and 2 saiga's. I never thought I would compliment the russians on quality, but, it is night and day difference between the saiga vs. SKS. If I had a choice, I would get a saiga in a heartbeat instead of a SKS.

Dinzag sells a U.S. trigger group for non-converted saigas. here, http://www.dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/fcgnpg.html This would be two parts. You could also change the front handguard.

+1, I actually bought a moss. 500 for $75 because the owner WOULDN'T buy Sabot slugs for the fully rifled barrel. I couldn't bring myself to talk him down any more on price since it was my brother-in-law.

I wish you guys the best on your birthday

I currently shoot a CVA optima Pro in .50 cal. Right now I am using triple 7 loose powder and QT sabots.

The Tromix FCG went right into my s-12 without any problems and functions really alot better than the stock unit. I don't have a dinzag to compare it with though. The reasons I went with Tromix was the fact that the sear and disconector came assembled, and I had other parts ordered from mississippi auto arms.

You might be referring to the AGI (American Gunsmithing Institute) video on AK triggers. With a little bit of skill and some basic tools you should be able to modify an AK trigger to 2-stage. You just need to be careful and be sure you know what you're doing before you start so that you don't make it an unsafe trigger. The video goes into detail on that point. I recommend it, very informative. Bingo! That is the one.

There is a really good gunsmithing DVD out there an the AK style rifles that details turning a "stock" trigger group into a 2 stage trigger. I'm just waiting for some free time to modify mine.

Which flavor of Saiga? Were you looking at installing a upper handguard? Dinzag has some gas tubes on his site.

Give yourself more credit than that. I had to be "shown" the first time, if my discription isn't as helpfull as it colud be let me know.

Good lookin' 20 ya got there.

Which "front fastners" are you wondering about? If they are the center fastners which join the two sides of the vest together, those look like a pass-through arrangment. The metal peices on the right side of the vest would slip through the center holes on the left. The metal peices should then lay flat against each other. It really is a simple solution to fastening an enclosure. If those were not the "front fasteners" you were asking about, please disregard my commentary.

When you are checking everything out you could also remove the bolt and check function of the fire control group. Start by feild stripping the weapon, and then place your thumb on the hammer. Gently pull the trigger until the sear disengages the hammer and allow the hammer to come foward under the control of your thumb. Then you can bring the hammer back to the locked position with your thumb. Try this several times with the trigger depresed and released to check both the sear and disconector engagment. Always take care to keep the hammer under control and not let it slam around. If every

+1 on the thread. I picked mine up at Lowes. Really easy and quick, I would like to have welded mine but I don't have access to a mig welder.

great looking families guys.

Thank you for the anwsers.

How far will the top rail sit above the gas tube?

Hey, I have a couple of questions on the muzzle brake. Are the ports canted back? I.E. do the ports direct the gases back to "pull" the weapon foward? Why did you choose to use 7075? Most of the other brakes I have seen are steel. Is there any particular "care tips" for this brake? I.E. "don't use product Z with this brake." Sorry about being a PITA, I was just wondering.