JWysenski762

Practicaly speaking, yeah you should be abel to have the thumb hole stock count for 2 parts, but LEGALY speaking you cant. i dont know much about the 308's but with my 7.62 i was able to keep my original but stock (or any forgin stock) by getting my fcg from tapco. i dont know if the 308 uses the same fcg as the 7.62 (but some one here im sure does, they will stear you stright) but they had a deal where if you buy a pg and fcg they throw in a free us made gas piston, which is a total of 5 parts. agian im not sure if any of these parts are compatable with the 308.

what do you think over all of the M48? what kind of groupings do you get? ive been thinking about getting a ugo mauser for a while now, especialy with how cheap 8mm is. thats my only complaint with the K31, 7.5 swiss is like 40 cents a round and ive heard a real pain in the ass to reload.

this link http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/copperout/index.asp was posted here a few months ago, and i thought it was a good idea but saw no point in using it on my nearly new saiga. well we had a gunshow here in Raleigh last weekend, so i went to pick up a couple east german mags for the saiga. im sure all of you have gone to a show before to pick up some mags or ammo and come home with a new rifel. well i got a K31 (which i am verry impressed with). i decided to try out the electric bore cleaner on it even though it was one of the brightest bores ive ever seen. the swiss must

well, i have no idea bout the exact temperature of the barel, but a simple test to see if its geting above 212 would be to put a drop of water on it. if it boils, then its over 212. maybe if your still curious, you could use a meet thermometer, although you may get some funny looks at the range. my guess is that the force from the muzzle blast (which is notorious for knocking off non threaded muzzle atachments) is your biggest enemy, although the heat may not help.

ive had good experiences with remington, but its expencive. its good stuf but i see no point in paying for brass when 7.62 isnt worth reloading. then ive shot the whole zoo of cheap stuf, wolf, golden tiger, brown bear, silver bear ect. of those i prefer wolf FMJ and my new favorite is brown bear SP. the wolf is good faily accurate reliable ammo, but with the brown bear SP i can keep em under 2 inches at 100 yards with stock iron sights and a bipod. and i can get them localy for about 11 cents a round.

oh damn is my face red! i thought that theywere just pounded in! i thought that the retainer spring was just there for the bho. i guess thats why its called a RETAINER spring... thanks for the help.

i did my conversion and put in the tapco fcg, pg and gas piston (which are all great) and just tried it out this week. well i must have bashed up the ends of the pins prety good or some thing. they stayed in fine untill i fired it. i got about 100 rounds through, and the one for the trigger came loose and it shot off 4 or 5 rounds in automatic. i could feel the trigger was not on right so i put the safety on and took out the mag and fiddled with the pin to put it back in. then it went off again, and smashed up my safety (it was easily bent back and looks as good as new)! fortunatly it was p

well i finaly did it! got the tapco package with the gas piston so that i would be legal with forgin stocks. i havent decided on a stock yet and just have the old one on, which for now works fine. everything was prety stright forward, but the metal on the reciver and bolt carier were hard as hell to cut through! but it gave me a good idea on about how much force would be needed to bend the reciver, which is a lot. one minor hang up though. when i pull the charging handel back and let it go slowly forward, the bolt carier catched up on the new disconector. not a major isue, if i let it s

i just learned (the hard way) that the saw PG comes with a screw, so yes you need the nut but not the screw. a standard ak screw wont work with the saw. i accidentaly ordered the screw and it was somthing like 5 bucks... outragous for a simple screw, that i wound up not needing. BTW tapco has excelent service, i ordered my stuf on a sunday night and got it wednesday with their cheapest shipping. very impressed with the quality of the parts too, nice work guys.

i finaly started doing my conversion! i ordered the parts from tapco but havent goten them yet, but i already started doing the conversion work. i removed the old fire controll group, floor plate, and moved the trigger guard up. every thing has gone smoothly so far. the hardest part was actuly getting a screw in the mag realease to re mount the trigger guard. verry easy so far. but i was wondering what all is involved in replacing the piston (you get a free one from tapco with the fcg/ pg combo). i know how to drill out the old pin but where do i get a new pin (for cheap, ie. not online)

is the mag locked in? it looks funny, like too far forward like its not locked in. but ive never seen a saiga with a 50 rounder, cool beans!

MY DAD WONT LET ME KEEP A GUN IN THE HOUSE YET BUT I DONT CARE AND IM GOING TO GET ONE ANYWAY! HOW DO I MODIFY, OR WHERE CAN I GET A FA BANNANA? ONE TIME, THIS GUY I KNOW, SAID THAT HIS FRIEND TOLD HIM THAT HIS UNCLE BROKE THE STEM OFF THE BANANA, AND IT WORKED IN FA!!!!!!!!

one of my favorite, real easy mods (well its more of an add on realy) that i have done that a lot of people overlook is a bipod. i got a haris, and its great. you will have to do a little work on the front sling mount to get it to fit but its easy. even homer couldnt mess it up!

well the nut that the pg screw screws into is a nifty little thing that fits nicewly in the reciver at the ptoper angel but it is rediculous what they charge for the nut and screw. im sure that with some basic machineing skils one could be fasioned. but for simplicity, i think il go ahead and use the nut and screw offered online. somone ought to make a deal for saiga conversions where you can buy a pg, fcg, pg screw and nut, stock and plugs for the holes from the old fcg at a reduced price.

keep in mind i dont know what the hell im talking about, but i belive the 20 inch gets a little more velocity. another obseration i have made, (realy have no idea here) but it would seem that with the extra 4 inches after the gas port that you would get more presure for a longer period of time on the piston. dose this make it more reliable? i have no idea. both are extreamly reliable rifels already. another thing where the longer barel may help is with ride up. the barel is longer and therefore has more rotational inertia, so this may help keep ride up to a min. but if you are getti