jbauch357

Figured I'd come back almost three years later and let everybody know that after thousands of rounds the hammer face is indeed deforming. The metal is actually flowing out to the sides, and making a wide flat paddle out of the hammer surface. Action and trigger still feel nice and smooth, but I don't like the way the hammer impacting surface is deforming so I'm replacing it. What I've decided to go with is the RSA adjustable AK FCG. Since the pivot on the hammer isn't trimmed and I don't want to again ruin hardening I'll have to lose the BHO on the rifle - but I figure it's not all bad

I've learned my lesson about modifying products that I'm having issues with, before instructed to do so by the manufacturer that is. Right now I've got an $85 brake that for some reason I can't get installed properly, if I modify it or damage it and negate the warranty I'll have an $85 paper weight. I'll wait to hear back before working in this portion of the gun any more, I've got other stuff to keep me busy... EDIT: Well, the brake is going back to Tromix and I should have a replacement soon. Tony also thought it sounded like the ID was cut a touch too small, which is a very

No answer on the phone so I shot a mail off with all the info. Tonight I'm starting on the full conversion of the same Saiga 12, so the whole thing is giong to be a work in progress for a couple days anyway...

I ordered the brake from mississippiautoarms and it looks exactly like what tromix pictures on their site - so I don't doubt the authenticity of the brake. The final coating (or painting, whatever it may be) process adding some thickness to the threads is what I suspect is the major issue here. I can actually see the threads clean up as I continually work the brake on and off - but since it continues to get harder I decided to stop and ask the forum. I've also installed the factory thread protector back on the barrel many times and the threads on the barrel itself are still true and

So I finally get my Shark Brake yesterday, and of course the first thing I do after opening the package is try to put the thing on. I pull the thread protector off the barrel, and start screwing on the shark brake. It goes about 1 1/2 turns then starts to turn harder and harder to the point that I think maybe I have it cross threaded. I pull it off, look at the threads on both barrel and brake, both are straight and all is good. I try a couple more times, same thing - now I'm getting frustrated. So then I flip the brake around so the un-threaded length slides over the barrel ensuring the

greedily awaiting the arrival of this product... have any preliminary pricing or product info yet?

I started stocking up about a year ago for all of my guns, and now have a good supply of SHTF ammo. It stays in the closet in air tight ammo cans with anti-rust ozone generating tablets. I am having a hard time finding decent prices on ammo for regular plinking/practice purposes though...

is it the difference in the amount of barrel in front of the front site block that keeps something like this to be used on a Saiga? http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AKS015-1.html I also want to throw a brake on my Saiga, but don't have any state laws regulating how I can do it. Should I just thread the end of the barrel and but a screw on brake?

Crap, just spent some time on the Tromix site and can see they are indeed different - sorry about asking stupid questions...

So I got done converting over my 7.62x39 Saiga, and have to say I really enjoyed the process plus the rifle is much more enjoyable to shoot. I did everything inside the receiver, but left the forend alone - I'm not too worried about getting true AK handguards on the thing. I'm going to do the same thing with my Saiga 12 soon as it shows up, I just ordered it this morning. The main question is, are there any major difference in the conversion steps between the 7.62x39 and 12 gauge? I'm assuming I'll have to field strip, drill out the hinge pins, remove the trigger group, drill ou

MindFork - stock is headed your way as of tomorrow. It does have the cleaning kit trap door too...

Actually, I am going to look at it a bit closer tonight. If there is room on the hand guard I am going to use the automotive heat sheilding, that's adhesive then fiberglass insulation then reflective heat shield. It does a great job reflecting heat from headers and exhaust - it should work fine for the barrel and front grip. Of course I'll make sure it's hidden when installed...

Unloaded a 33rd magazine, reloaded and repeated two more times - rate of fire was a couple shots per second... I went through a couple more mags after that after giving it some cool down time, and never really got back to where the handguard was comfortable to hold on to...

So after about 100rds the front hand guard was too hot to touch - I had to hold on to the magazine to shoot. It's still the stock "sporter" non-converted front hand guard - does this thing retain a bunch more heat than the converted set that doesn't go so far down the barrel and gas tube? Is there any way to reduce the heat transfer to the hand guard, like filling the space between guard and barrel with fiberglass insulation? I didn't really want to swap out the hand guard - but holy hell it got hot!