Sheik Yerbouti

I only use FSE fire control parts and have never experienced the problem.

Been real busy. I closed down my business and went to work for a large corporation so I could stay close to home. Now, I work longer hours for less money - go figure. Also, my family has been plagued with really weird accidents lately. The wife and kids have all had to have surgery in the last 2 months, and it has been quite stressful. Haven't started any new projects in over 6 months.

I saw Mr. Weeks at a gunshow this weekend. Asked him about his website, as I am getting lots of email regarding parts sources since his website went down. Apparently, there are a lot of rumors floating around as well. The real story is this: RPB's web hosting company was paid for a shopping cart that RPB never got. So Mr. Weeks pulled the account. He is currently persuing other options for a new, improved website. Meanwhile, orders for Saiga conversion parts can still be placed by calling 1-800-858-0809. Still the same great quality at the same great prices.

I use a 3/16 TiN coated end mill. Haven't had any problems...

The RSA will work, but IMHO they are not worth the money. On the shotgun, you will have to grind on the hammer, regardless of the make of the FCG. On the 30 Combloc or the 223, the G2 and FSE are litterally drop-in. My favorite is the FSE trigger group. They give you an excellent trigger pull with no work. The G2 may even be easier to install, since it now ships with a pivot sleeve, however, it looks like the sleeve would cause the disconnector to be weaker due to the thinner wall around the axle hole.

Most of the 308 conversions on the 49/56 were [erformed by angry beavers at Century Arms in Vermont. The "gunsmiths" were part time college and high school kids. The 49/56 can be made into a most reliable 308 if done correctly. First, you must take the barrel off. Then trim 9/16 off the breech end. Next, set the barrel shoulder forward to give you the same amount of shank that you had before trimming. Then, rethread the shank. Next, time the barrel. Then, recut the chamber with a finishing reamer. Finally, work the handguard over from the receiver side to match the shortened barrel. A

Bigfoot, give us a report on the shape its in, etc.

It means you spread lapping compound on all the areas where different parts meet and work the parts until they have 100% contact and the surfaces are very smooth.

The Modelo BM which is a cut down Modelo B is a sweet deal right now. Wholesale on them is around $139 with plastic box, instruction manual (en Espanol), and two magazines. They are all steel and the controls are all in the same places as a 1911. They will even keep a 3-foot group at 100 yards! I would recommend an Modelo BM to anyone looking for a quality self-loading pistol.

True, but the rule of WECSOG is that you modify the least expensive part. That way if you screw up, you have lost less.

They ought to be good shooters. They are exact replicas of what is probably the finest SA/DA platform extant - the CZ-75. V-R's example may have had quality problems, as Tangfolio was known for this in the early years, but they have since gotten their QC together. To get find a selfloader with a SA/DA action that comes close to the CZ, you have to pay a lot of money - and you still don't have a CZ.

Check out the CZ550 in 30-06. It is one sweet and well made rifle. British gun laws suck.

I just got back from the range about 10 minutes ago. Here's what I found out: The Galil mags fit a little loosely. In my converted Saiga 223, they would not feed at all. Upon examination, I perceived that the geometry in the way they seat in the magazine well is slightly off. Even though I have a bullet guide in the gun, the bullet tip hits the breech face below the chamber. There are two ways to fix this. The first, and probably simplest is to install a slightly thicker (or angled) bullet guide. This would probably make the Weigers more reliable, too, as I had 7 FTFs out of

!@#$%&* Earthlink! They have a download limit on personal websites and mine has been exceeded, so if you go there now, you will get the message: So I have moved the site to a New Location. I don't know how long I can keep it there.

Hmmm. Interesting concept. There are distinct advantages that the Kel-tec has over the Saiga: - Ability to use M16 mags - Folding feature for compact storage - Integral bipod The advantages the Saiga has: - Cheap - Simple - Standard sights never move in relation to each other I guess it's personal preference and wallet. I like the fact that Kel-tec stayed away from the direct gas impinging system of the M16, and I wonder if they use the M16 bolt in their design.

That's true. I got mine from RPB and put it on the .30 Combloc Saiga. When it started working loose, I screwed it down real tight and ut a dab of blue Loctite on it. That solved the problem. The grip comes from TAPCO and is avaialble for $20.

lletronshootit, how do you like your 25-06? I snagged an Erfurt Mauser which had been sporterized and the box is long enough for 30-06. Since I already have a 30-06 and a 270, I was thinking of converting this one to 25-06. I have heard that the 28 inch barrel was optimum for velocity, but I was thinking that a 26 inch would be more handy. What do you think?

I hear what you are saying, KYSoldier. To me, the 308Win is a medium cartridge, and about minimum for a scout , sniper, or open terrain weapon. OTOH, having a cartridge that will fit in M16 mags and reach out to 600 yds and still have enough energy to reliably take deer sized game has some appeal. What I don't like about the 6.8 SPC is that (a ) it takes a special bolt face, because it is based on the .30 Rem case; (b ) it uses necessarily short projectiles because of the case length and O.A.L. requirements; and (c )there aren't many bullet choices in .277 (270 Win) compared to the alter

Right after I got mine, I bump fired a couple of 30 round mags. It handled tehm OK, but the handguards did get a little warm!

Have any of you guys actually seen, or even better, had your hands on a Saiga 100? Does it use the standard Saiga receiver, or is it a different receiver?

What do you guys think about the PK-AS?

They do in mine. I'll be testing the 50s this weekend an will let you know how reliable they are.

You have to lower the front of the Weiger mag lips to match the profile of your original mag, then you have to modify the catch lip at the rear on three surfaces. You can read about how to do it on my Saiga web page on the page for Step 10. I you do not want to install a bullet guide, I recommend you get a good pair of calipers and be as accurate as possible with your modifications. Or you can look for some Galil mags (30-round steel, 35-round plastic, or 50-round steel). They fit pretty much without any mods whatsoever. The 50-rounders are currently available in used but good condit

The Siaga firing pin is not restrained by a spring like many self-loaders. About the only AK variant I have heard of whech has a firing pin spring is the Chinese version. It may be that your firing pin is too long, or it may be that there is some kind of grease or trash in the bolt that is keeping it from "floating" correctly. First thing I would do is strip the bolt and clean it very good inside and out. While it was stripped, I would put the calipers to the firing pin and get an accurate measurement to 0.001 inch. Then I would call EAA, and ask them exactly how long the firing pin

$18 is less than what I pay locally. Let me dig out my Widener's catalog this weekend and see if I can find their price and P/N.