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glennb

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About glennb

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  • Birthday 02/21/1953

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  • Location
    Cudahy, WI
  • Interests
    Bicycle racing, Amateur radio (WE9K), shooting
  1. Can't figure out how to modify the title. The mags were sold to a member of the club I shoot at. Thanks for your interest.
  2. I have two steel 30 round 7.62x39 AK mags for sale. Both have their catch tabs shaved for use in a Saiga that has not had it's mag catch modified. One is in good condition, one has some surface rust and minor pitting around the reinforced area at the top of the mag. $12 shipped for both. Be sure you know your state and local regs before buying. *sold locally*
  3. As I take stock in preparation to sell my converted Saiga, I just want to be sure I have the parts count right. I did the conversion a few years ago, following the popular tutorial, and added the following US made parts: G2 FCG, KVAR Warsaw length buttstock, Tapco PG. I was always under the impression that a Saiga sans muzzle device was at 15 foreign parts, and that I was good to go with the 5 US made parts. Anyone here see any flaw in my thinking or math?
  4. Hmm, if it was just the iron sights that you noticed this with, I would suggest you check for a canted FSB. It would seem that putting a scope on would bypass any cant problem though; I don't read here enough to know if anyone has ever had experience with a Saiga showing up with a bent barrel, although it is probably not outside the realm of possibilities.
  5. Two years ago the day after Thanksgiving the Dunham's here was selling them for $179. I bought the first one of the morning and got a pair of cheap shooting glasses thrown in to boot. Now mine has become a safe queen...
  6. I remember some Olympic threads from the past, and I had concurred that the stuff was junk. But I just finished off the last 200 of 400 rounds yesterday, including bump firing two 30 round mags full without a hitch. I still wouldn't suggest anyone run out and buy the stuff without checking the rounds over, but with this current drought of good 7.62x39, I would buy it again, especially if it was under 4 bucks for a 40 round box.
  7. I modified my original 10 round Saiga mag to clear the extended length of my bullet guide. I basically just cut out the material at the top front of the mag like a standard AK mag. It was a waste of time though; my kid mainly uses the Saiga now, and he doesnt want to use anything other than the 20 and 30 rounders.
  8. Sixty Driver, great post. I never had a problem with any ammo feeding over my bullet guide till I bought some Olympic ammo, and found that with two of my 30 rounds mags the bullet tip would stop dead on the face of the guide. I thought of beveling the entire edge, but notching it looks like a great solution. Thanks.
  9. Wolverine, the rounds were FMJ. The bullets don't have a cannelure, so any crimping would probably do damage. The biggest bummer was that I thought that a local buy with ammo under $0.10 a round was a good deal. Too bad I didn't do a little web search beforehand.
  10. I also bought some Olympic from Gander Mountain when they were closing it out at our local store (I paid 3.95 per box of 40 though). I tok my son to the range last weekend with our Saiga and FAL. My son loaded up the mags for the Saiga, fixed a 30 rounder cycled the bolt and it jammed. The bullet tip was jammed against the edge of the feedramp. Cleared that and noticed the first problem with the Olympic; lack of crimp and cannelure caused the bullet to get shoved into the case quite a bit. Tried a 20 round mag which cycled all ok. No accuracy report though, we were shooting up a large galvan
  11. The firing pin channel should be dry, no lube, as that attracts crud and causes it to stick eventually. I think the firing pin return spring in the .223 version would be a good idea for the 7.62x39 as well.
  12. That seems to be about the lowest price I have seen for a NIB Saiga rifle. I paid $179 for mine at Christmas. I doubt that you will find one cheaper right now.
  13. I heard of using shaving cream for cleaning the carbon off off gas pistons, but not as a bore cleaner. I haven't had had a can of shave cream for a while though, so I haven't tried it first hand.
  14. monomonk, in the original configuration, you always have that transfer bar to contend with, which connects the trigger unit to the disconnector/hooks. Your MAK-90 has the hooks/trigger in one unit, which also shares the axis pin with and cradles the disconnector. Unless you go with the conversion, you won't be able to duplicate the trigger in the MAK-90. Before I did the conversion I tried polishing the entire linkage in place, with no decent results. You could modify the hooks (at your own risk of course), but you would still have to contend with the contact surfaces where the trigger meets t
  15. The trigger and "hooks" in the OEM FCG are proprietary, and are connected by a transfer bar. There are plenty of variables there; you may have been lucky with your .308 trigger in getting one with a good feel. The "hooks" may actually be the biggest factor in your trigger pull; the trigger itself mainly pushes on the rear end of the transfer bar.
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