skifast
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Posts posted by skifast
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It was not a JTE spring. It could be the problem, however I ran 1,000+ rounds through it after changing the spring without an issue. If the problem repeats, I will swap springs.
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What hammer spring did you install?
Don't recall. It is chrome silicon and had good reviews.
I'll second a dud/weak primer. I had some "panic era" Wolf that I had 30 FTF in 1K. As others have said, mass produced ammo will have duds on occasion.
I usually buy Wolf and haven't had any problems. I bought 3K round of GT based on its cult status. haha
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Thanks for the replies. I took the bolt apart and cleaned it thoroughly. I am thinking the was at least part of the problem, since the firing pin was sticky in the bolt.
I replaced the fog with an ALG a few months ago. I replaced the hammer spring at the same time.
I am going to put a few hundred rounds through it tomorrow night.
If the problem repeats, I will chalk it up to the ammo.
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My Saiga has around 5,000 rounds through it. The last two times out I have experienced occasional misfires, 1 every 50 rounds. I was only able to examine one round and it had what looked like a decent primer strike. I am shooting fairly new manufactured Golden Tiger. Purchase from SG Ammo about 45 days ago.
What should i be looking at to diagnose the problem?
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Thanks for the advice. I do have a good brake, Manticore Nightbrake. I ended up drilling some holes. It won't hurt anything, took 5 minutes and cost nothing.
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I have heard that the AK is overgassed. Would it make sense to change out a non-vented to a vented gas tube? If so, any problem with drilling a few holes in the non-vented one?
My thinking is that it will reduce felt recoil and muzzle rise.
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Thanks. Nice review. I have some Kydex, I will make my own.
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I just bought a used adapter. It is going to replace the Mako tube on my Saiga. I have a Magpul CTR stock on the Mako. I am going to use a CTR on the Vltor. I know the Mako is a commercial tube and the Vltor is milspec. I have a milspec CTR for it.
My question is, the Vltor did not come with any filler plates? Are they necessary? If so, anyone have a plate that fits a Saiga x39? -
Want to buy or trade for a Bulgarian Zig Zag Brake
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in other words spend the money you would on an optic on ammo or professional training.
I love when people act like buying an optic, or similar is, mutually exclusive with training. Most guns I've seen at courses would indicate that is not the case. That is to say they have optics. Typically people that care enough to get training also realize that well thought out equipment can offer significant advantages. Training is important but it is not mutually exclusive to good gear. In fact, when one has a chance to run gear hard it tends to make one gravitate towards quality gear.
Your statement is a logically incorrect. You are stating that people that take courses, have expensive optics. Therefore, all people that buy expensive optics take courses.
I know there is a huge number of gun guys that believe buying good gear makes them good gun fighters. That is why you see so many stupid arguments, like AK v. AR, 9mm v.45 etc. The underlying concept behind the argument is that gear is king. The fact is skills are far more important than gear.
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My Kobra takes 2325 coin batteries. I kept 6 or 7 in the pistol grip. I don't see battery life as being the end all and be all. One of the advantages of Russian optics is they usually include the mount. The price of the optic includes the mount. I prefer having the optic over the receiver, rather than on the gas tube like an UltimAK. This is a major concern with a low cost, the heat may be an issue.
I would look at DPH's beryl rail. I think it is a better solution, if you need a mount.
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No offense to anyone in this thread. But it's always kind of funny how much talk there is abiut which items are best for SHTF. The best item you can have for a shtf gunfight is training and experience. Get off the bench. Find someone with property(I'm lucky to have the space) and try tofind out about shooting on thier land. Run your guns hard, wet, dirty sideways and upside down. Don't worry about scratches and little blemishes. Setup man sized cardboard. Or even better steel. Wherever you have a good backstop. And blast the hell away from every position and movement you can think of with your choice of handgun and rifle. You will immediately see what works and doesn't. I now know that my current holster for my sidearm blows l. But I love my CZ more everyday. I know that the ar and ak both work well and so much more. Get out and shoot. Borrow others equipment to find out wha you like and don't like
Eta: in other words spend the money you would on an optic on ammo or professional training. Other great way to do things is buy a cheaper analog run that hard, and of if you like the way It operates and feels(problems frombeing lower quality not important) then save and buy the real McCoy. I have been using a bushnell trs 25 for a few months now and it has made me start saving up for a T/H 1 aimpoint
Excellent post.
As far as the optic, I Iike the idea of no batteries, no electronics to worry about, no switches to malfunction. I would also not lose sleep if I had an Aimpoint, Kobra, Eotech, etc. They are all proven combat optics. However, they are also man made and each one has had its failures. Fortunately, the failures are few and far between.
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I think it will hold up. It is back up by a nut and JB Weld. If it doesn't, I will try welding it.
I will be taking a two day tactical carbine class in two weeks. We will see how it works under pretty intense training.
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I have a Kobra. I don't believe a civilian can determine that someone is a threat over 100 yards away. Personally, I think the idea that you will need to engage targets at 100 plus yards is a fantasy. If SHTF, what gunfighting there will be will be CQB. A good red dot is much faster than irons.
The nice thing about the Kobra is the different reticles. For up close, I like the T reticle. For distance, the dot and chevron. In addition, if it dies, you can remove it and use your irons in a second.
All that being said, I am selling the Kobra. I found a used Mepro 21 for a good price. I like the non-electronic red dot. Like the Trijicon, it uses tritium and fiber optics.
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I am considering buying the rail. My Saiga has been converted. The gas tube has the retainer for the upper handguard. AmI correct that the Saiga version of the UTG rail won't work due to the retainer?
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How does the extended mag release attach to the rifle?
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I replaced a AK74 style clone brake with a Bulgy zig zag brake on my Saiga. I replaced the FSB with a Bulgarian FSB with 24mm threads. Both brakes are 24mm threads.
I never had a problem removing and attaching the clone to clean the gun.
Today, after shooting with the zig zag brake. I removed it to clean the gun. It was very difficult to get off. I had to use a rod through the brake to get enough leverage to remove it. After cleaning I tried to reinstall the brake. It would only go on about a third of the way. The threads look fine.
Any ideas what is going on?
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I just bought as Zig Zag brake. It is for a 5.45 AK74. What size should I open the hole up to for a 7.62. I only have SAE size bits.
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Anyone have one? Does it make a difference?
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I currently have a Kobra that has a pictinny mount and use cr2(small cylinder batteries). i am thinking about buying another. I am looking at one with a side mount that takes CR2325 batteries(coin type).
I would guess the CR2 has a longer battery life? Are there any other differences?
The one I am looking at says Holster-USA Made in Russia on the side, is it a fake?
Thanks
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Is there any concern about the increase in barrel heating?
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Somehow in my move, I lost the front sight post to my 7.62x39 Saiga. All I need is the post, I have the barrel.
Anyone have a spare laying around?
Thanks,
Mark
Misfires
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
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The problem repeated with my son's fairly new Saiga. I am pretty sure it is an ammo issue.