Shannon McNair

i like that... how did the s12 go over? were there others? Thanks everyone for the kind words. It was a good time. No, I had the only Saiga-12 in the class, and of course everyone sort of came over and oggled it. For awhile it was a curiosity, until it came time to fire off 5 rounds as rapidly as we could. Actually, the instructor stopped the class before it was my turn and announced something like, "ok everyone, now, this is where the semi-autos are kind of different from the pump action. This will be a bit faster..." So I fired off five as fast as I could... ...and, pred

Actually, will this hold up under continuous fire? It mounts straight to the barrel, which I would think would get hot. Anyone have any experience with a mount that clamps straing onto the barrel?

You know, both this solution and the duct tape could work, but it occurs to me that there may be moments where you want to turn it off easily to avoid giving away your position. I wonder if tac flashlights are ever mounted with an on/off mechanism near the trigger?

I'd like to get this little Surefire E2D LED Defender to go to and from work with, and either mount it or another to my Saiga 12 for home defense. Can anyone suggest a cheap and effective way to do so?

I'll 2nd this bump. In my range report I mentioned how valuable I thought a magwell would be. A gentle tap from an enthusiastic and adoring public :-)

Range Report: A 40yr old wuss and his Saiga train at the Public Safety Range Ok, to start, let me give you a quick bio: I'm 40 and very soft. For the past few months I've been in this forum asking what probably seem like very noob questions, but mostly just lurking. The rigors of my job are the same as most software engineers (as I am): my job keeps me in front of a keyboard all day. Occasionally I dust off some piece of fine literature that I read when I was an English Lit major at a very nice private University that I graduated from over a decade ago. No, I don't take bubble baths a

I've asked this question recently and the only thing I've heard back consistently is that the Winchester "Universal" loads from Wal-Mart will give problems. Other's have cited reduced recoil rounds, while other say they have no problem with them. Just stay clear of the one from Wal-Mart and apparently you'll be fine. I'll find out for myself as soon as my gun comes back from my gunsmith.

I had a budgie, but it died.

I thought I read somewhere that the Saiga 12 IZ-109 is parkerized prior to painting out-of-the-box. Is this true?

I'd wait for "Thee Grayte Gunne Panicke of '08" to subside. It seems unlikely to me that a renewal of the AWB will be an early order of business for the new congress. There's just a hell of a lot of things for an incoming administration to deal with. You may in fact find that some who rushed to buy a gun are looking to hock one to recover funds. But it's a crap shoot. The AWB has been put up for renewal every year since it expired, and it's never seen the light of day. Even if the new congress passes it and the incoming administration signs it, it may not happen this year or even the next,

I mean, do I just hit it with Hoppes with the cleaning brush included with the Saiga, or do I need to use a degreasing agent?

Hi all, I noticed that out of the box the Saiga had some kind of petroleum smear inside the barrel. Whats the recommended cleaning procedure for cleaning the Saiga 12 the first time out of the box?

Are you painting the whole gun, or just a few parts? If you are painting the whole gun, I would at least field strip it (fully stripping it would be better), lightly scuff-sand (or you can media blast) the areas to be painted and fully clean and degrease them (something like denatured alcohol works pretty well), mask off the areas you don't want to paint, and paint. If you will be painting with a spray can, I recommend using a pistol grip adapter with a trigger for better control. I would avoid painting most internal parts. I hope this helps you. Others here know a lot more about this

Looks exactly like the answer I was looking for. Thanks!

Thanks, I'll take a look.

If you apply Duplicolor to a new Saiga, do you need to strip it first? And how do you apply it? Is it for external parts only? Or do you need to disassemble the gun?

This is actually a great thread, but looking through the responses I'm lost on where to begin. Is there a very cheap, easy to apply, do it at home, no assembly required coating/paint/finish/whatever that will protect the gun better than whatever finish it arrived with from the factory? I've seen terms like Parkerizing and Moly Resin tossed about. What's the cheap-but-undeniably-effective-cant-go-wrong way to do it? UPDATE: Ok, in reading this forum again, it looks like Duplicolor is one popular inexpensive option, and that it requires no baking. So, before I would do this, what I'd like to

One thing I notice about the Krebs sights is that the front sight clamps onto the barrel. With a shotty I suppose precision isn't too important, but doesn't the barrel expand after being fired through? Doesn't this throw the front sight off, either quickly or over time? And does it weaken the front sight after repeated expansion/contraction?

My rear sight channel is rather torqued. I simply drifted out the sight and tapped in the Krebs sight then started putting slugs through it and tapping it until the gun was horizontally sighted. Then I just "learned" the sights vertical alignment. At 50 yards I I can group just fine. Your channel being torqued might not even be a big deal. The Krebs front sight can be loosened and slightly tapped to one side or the other, and between that and tapping the rear sight may be all the adjustment you need to get sighted enough. My decision in the end was a whistful "fuck it" and told

But if you are using them from 0-10 yards, do they not work well? My home is mostly drywall, but there's siding on the exterior walls. I live in the suburbs, so my objective is to have a chance at having the projectiles stop/disintegrate before exiting the house, or at least before entering a neighboring home.

I've got my Saiga in the shop right now to do the conversion with an Ace folder with a 1" recoil pad. I'll take it out and see how well the 1" pad absorbs recoil, but if it doesn't do as much as I'd like I wonder if it's possible to slip a Limbsaver over that pad. Has anyone tried? Would it work you think? I took the 9" folder so I've got a little room I think for extending the buttstock by stacking both.

I'm not using this dealer but I have sent my new Saiga 12 to a gunsmith. After reading this post I decided to ask if the TCG, which he keeps on hand, is made by Century or not. I expect to hear back in the next day or two. What's wrong with Century parts? How can I know if they are the ones used in a conversion? For that matter, what documentation should I ask for from my gunsmith doing the upgrade for me for proof of 922r compliance?

bump

Thanks for the response. Well, the Krebs is exactly what I was thinking of going with. But it looks to me like the Krebs rear sight uses the rear sight block. Won't it be off if I do that? Since the sight block is turned, maybe I'd end up looking through something that's a little bit more like an oval than a circle. I could probably live with that as long as I could line up the rear sight with the front sight.

Thanks for the reply. I got some clarification from the gunsmith on the problem with the sight. He said: There is a doevetail milled into the sight block, and it looks like the dovetail was milled crooked. It looks like as a result the sight is drifted to one side too. Now, I'd considered using the Krebs custom sights for the Saiga 12. But it looks to me like you clamp the front sight, but the rear sight you simply knock out the old sight from the site block and put the new one in. If the sight block is torqued, it won't matter what I put in. I only want a simple sight, not a scope or a