arizona98tj

The marksmanship training is just that.....training. It is applicable to any rifle you later pick up. The only thing you can do wrong, regrading an Appleseed shoot, is to not attend!

To start with ballistic coefficient is a property of the projectile and not the barrel length. You won't be changing it unless you change bullet designs. A bullet with a high BC will travel farther than one with a low BC since it will retain its velocity better as it travels downrange from the muzzle. Rate of twist has little to do with the barrel length but should be selected based on the weight of the bullet you intend to shoot. Slower twists work well with lighter weight bullets while a faster twist is needed to stabilize a heaver bullet. Given all other cartridge components being

If you haven't seen this Saiga .223 write-up, take a few minutes and read through it. The details and photos are pretty good.

I could understand if it was actually difficult to install, but it really isn't. Hell, I spent more time trying to drill out a couple of rivets on the trigger guard than I did putting the BHO back in.

Correct....but given everything else done in the conversion, it is quite simple. Looks like this....

I wouldn't want a 1 1/2 pound trigger on a semi-auto rifle. Too light. In a high stress situation, it's too likely to go off when you weren't trying to.

Sounds like you got hold of a budget conversion write-up, LOL! Try this one....and it will show you how the BHO can be easily installed....and the photos are clear enough that you may also see what is preventing your trigger from operating properly. http://www.stu-offroad.com/firearms/saiga/saiga-1.htm

A couple of $$ at the auto parts store will cure the brass denting issue.......at least it did for me.

I do not believe it is the depth as I milled mine right at .94" deep (didn't have the install instructions back when I first did mine). I just checked it and the magazine body comes quite close but does not contact the point where the milling was done. Perhaps the mags need a little more break in time? They are all new and so it may just be that. I just tried each of them, empty, in the adapter and there is a difference compared to when they are loaded. It may also be that the top round of the magazine is contacting the bottom of the bolt carrier and so it pushes down on the magazine

I finally got a chance to get to the range this past Monday and try the adapter. All in all, I was pleased with it operation. I ran about 60 rounds of Wolf 55 gr. through it using several different magazines. These included a 30 round Pmag, a 30 round aluminum Brownell, a 20 round aluminum MidwayUSA Stoner, and a 20 round aluminum Colt. All mags functioned quite well. I have a couple of failures.....one was a type III malfunction that put me out of action for a minute. The extracted case cleared the chamber but ended up getting stuck in the receiver with a fresh round half strippe

That doesn't make much sense....you say the gun came to you like that but yet you were the person that installed the hammer during the conversion? Can you explain that one again?

I did, IMHO, a pretty good job documenting how I put mine back in during my .223 conversion. If you want to see how.....here is my Saiga conversion write-up with the details included.

Mr. Wolf....which local shop?

No problem with the safety after installing a Tapco FCG in my .223 conversion.

No one mentioned the cost of feeding your new rifle, did they? Any more, the up front purchase price is shortly out spent by the long term feeding costs given the price of ammo these days. Even reloading isn't cheap like it use to be. That being said, .223 cartridges are notably cheaper than .308 cartridges. Spend a few minutes on line and check the common ammo outlets to get an honest idea what a day of "plinking" will cost.