arizona98tj

The marksmanship training is just that.....training. It is applicable to any rifle you later pick up. The only thing you can do wrong, regrading an Appleseed shoot, is to not attend!

To start with ballistic coefficient is a property of the projectile and not the barrel length. You won't be changing it unless you change bullet designs. A bullet with a high BC will travel farther than one with a low BC since it will retain its velocity better as it travels downrange from the muzzle. Rate of twist has little to do with the barrel length but should be selected based on the weight of the bullet you intend to shoot. Slower twists work well with lighter weight bullets while a faster twist is needed to stabilize a heaver bullet. Given all other cartridge components being

If you haven't seen this Saiga .223 write-up, take a few minutes and read through it. The details and photos are pretty good.

I could understand if it was actually difficult to install, but it really isn't. Hell, I spent more time trying to drill out a couple of rivets on the trigger guard than I did putting the BHO back in.

Correct....but given everything else done in the conversion, it is quite simple. Looks like this....

I wouldn't want a 1 1/2 pound trigger on a semi-auto rifle. Too light. In a high stress situation, it's too likely to go off when you weren't trying to.

Sounds like you got hold of a budget conversion write-up, LOL! Try this one....and it will show you how the BHO can be easily installed....and the photos are clear enough that you may also see what is preventing your trigger from operating properly. http://www.stu-offroad.com/firearms/saiga/saiga-1.htm

A couple of $$ at the auto parts store will cure the brass denting issue.......at least it did for me.

I do not believe it is the depth as I milled mine right at .94" deep (didn't have the install instructions back when I first did mine). I just checked it and the magazine body comes quite close but does not contact the point where the milling was done. Perhaps the mags need a little more break in time? They are all new and so it may just be that. I just tried each of them, empty, in the adapter and there is a difference compared to when they are loaded. It may also be that the top round of the magazine is contacting the bottom of the bolt carrier and so it pushes down on the magazine

I finally got a chance to get to the range this past Monday and try the adapter. All in all, I was pleased with it operation. I ran about 60 rounds of Wolf 55 gr. through it using several different magazines. These included a 30 round Pmag, a 30 round aluminum Brownell, a 20 round aluminum MidwayUSA Stoner, and a 20 round aluminum Colt. All mags functioned quite well. I have a couple of failures.....one was a type III malfunction that put me out of action for a minute. The extracted case cleared the chamber but ended up getting stuck in the receiver with a fresh round half strippe

That doesn't make much sense....you say the gun came to you like that but yet you were the person that installed the hammer during the conversion? Can you explain that one again?

I did, IMHO, a pretty good job documenting how I put mine back in during my .223 conversion. If you want to see how.....here is my Saiga conversion write-up with the details included.

Mr. Wolf....which local shop?

No problem with the safety after installing a Tapco FCG in my .223 conversion.

No one mentioned the cost of feeding your new rifle, did they? Any more, the up front purchase price is shortly out spent by the long term feeding costs given the price of ammo these days. Even reloading isn't cheap like it use to be. That being said, .223 cartridges are notably cheaper than .308 cartridges. Spend a few minutes on line and check the common ammo outlets to get an honest idea what a day of "plinking" will cost.

I shortened mine a bit...... BHO engaged...... BHO released.... Saiga .223 conversion

Part way down this page is how I did mine. You may want to check the length of the BHO before completing your installation. I ended up taking mine apart and trimming it a bit so as not to interfere with my trigger finger. Just an idea.

I simply trimmed mine to the proper length which took about a total of 5 minutes (including the coffee break) and put it on with the rest of my conversion. Very easy to do, its not in the way, and I have BHO functionality. Seems like a winning situation to me.

Yes, it does require taking a bit off of the hammer as shown in the photo. I don't understand your liability issue disclaimer. Did you not already remove the factory FCG and install another? If so.....oops.

I got it from a vendor on e-bay. It took about two weeks to arrive (ships from Europe). Here is a link to the Saiga scope install....should help with the photos you requested.

To begin it, the trigger guard was completely located to the rear of the BHO. It's difficult to call it a bad design when the problem arose only after you redesigned the placement of the trigger and trigger guard. That being said, I found it was in the way too. About 5 minutes with a file took care of the problem. It is still in place but has a much smaller profile and I no longer find it annoying, as you mentioned. Did you change yours?

I kept the stock BHO, as it was, when I did my conversion. After a couple of trips to the range, I shortened it by about 40% as it was longer than necessary. At no time was I ever able to accidentally engage the BHO while shooting from either an off-hand or benched position. I find it just short of totally uncomfortable to push the BHO into the receiver with my trigger finger in its shooting position. Purposefully repositioning my finger to engage the BHO is very much a deliberate act. Unlike you, my trigger finger is not lying across it when I'm firing....and I guess there in lies the di

Some info on doing a Saiga conversion, complete with parts list, etc.

The Saiga upgrade continues......a Giles Tactical sling from Wilderness Tactical.

That would be easier, but I would think that from a liability issue, that would not be the best solution. If that longer spring gets lost and it is replaced with a standard G2 spring, then the problem is back again. Same with putting a BB into the hole....take it apart, BB rolls out, and the problem is back (perhaps without anyone's knowledge of it). Replacing the faulty disconnector fixes the problem with no way for the problem to reoccur. Not trying to make an excuse for them, just looking at it the way a company looking to protect its assets might. FWIW, if I had found mine to