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About Tokageko

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  • Birthday 08/04/1981

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  1. Tide. I'm not even a fan of football generally, but still the Tide. lol Oh well. I'll be back soon enough. Either way, I've managed minute of angle groups with my S-308 using 155 grain Sierra MatchKings. It was with 42 grains of IMR 8208 XBR powder, federal cases, cci br-2 primers. What load are you using for the 125 grain TNT's?
  2. Also, Re: Lighter bullets, The best accuracy I've ever gotten has been with 155 grain bullets. Granted, I haven't tried anything *really* light, such as Speer's 125 grain TNT (which my .300 Blackout loves) or any of the 110 grain bullets. I will make a note of it once I have more time to shoot and am closer to sea level again. The twist rate on Saiga .308 barrels is something like 1 in 12.6 inches. Without over-complicating things, this means that the heavier the bullet you use, the faster you'll have to push it to get it to stabilize. Sticking to lighter weight bullets then means you can load them to lower velocities and there-by reduce recoil, which should allow you to shoot more accurately. Just a few thoughts. Thank you for listening.
  3. Re: First round low and left I'm one of the other members that csspecs is referring to, and I've had this problem on a couple of .308 caliber semi-autos. I've been able to fix all of them by doing the same thing: Replace the recoil spring. I've done this to my saiga, an LR-308, a .308 Garand, and an HK91. Near as I can tell, there's a difference between in-battery-enough-to-fire and completely-locked. It's a teeny tiny difference, but it's there. There are two ways I've checked in order to come up with this. One is to pull the bolt carrier all the way back, as far as it can physically go, before letting it fly to strip that first round. The other is to push forward on the bolt/carrier once it's in battery. You may or may not be able to feel it give, but you'll probably notice that your first shot doesn't go low and left when you've done either of these. On a gun that's seen thousands of rounds down range, you may just need a new standard weight spring. On guns that are newer, there can be other things to look at. For instance, if the cartridge drags excessively as it comes out of the magazine, it can slow the bolt/carrier to the point it doesn't have enough energy to fully lock the bolt. Same goes for the carrier/piston (or op-rod in the case of a garand or M14) dragging on something. Examine the parts for bright shiny spots. These spots are evidence of burnishing, which can be either from two steel parts rubbing against each other, or impacting each other. In a case like that, lubrication is the first thing to try. If that doesn't do it, metal removal could be next on the list ...unless too much metal would need to be removed, in which case you're talking about parts replacement. If it's just parts rubbing though and the gun is new, it's called break-in. If the feed lips on the magazine are leaving scars on the cartridges, or it's just hard to get the bolt to push them out of the magazine, try a different magazine. Loading fewer rounds can make a difference as well, but it cuts down on the functionality of the system. A lighter spring could help, and it's cheaper to replace if messed up. Sometimes modifying the feed lips helps. The one thing that has always helped though, has been a newer/stronger recoil spring. In conclusion, and I say this with all love and respect: Quit wasting ammo and replace the damned spring.
  4. They were Winchester primers. Sounds like yours is a little less finicky than mine though. Normally I have good luck with Winchester primers.
  5. Glad to hear they're working out for you.
  6. That's a Bushmaster muzzle brake. I worked on the trigger to make it lighter and crisper. I'm in Foley, so we're not that far apart.
  7. My first 308. Custom stock from BRG3. AK74 style muzzle brake.
  8. It's consistant with my rifle. The hotter it gets, the smaller the groups get. Has anyone else noticed this?
  9. I've used dented cases quite a few times without any ill effect. I did have one case split at the neck today but there was no noticable difference while firing. I've never had one split through the body, regardless of how dented they were.
  10. Just shot another group that I thought was worth sharing. This is ten shots at 100 yards (I pulled one low and left). The load used was the same, except for the primers. Who would have thought they could make this big a difference?
  11. Yep. This is from an uncoverted rifle. I did change the piston for a US made one, and switched the smooth top-cover for a ribbed one, but that's it.
  12. I haven't used the 155 grain A-Max bullets. I don't know how similar their shape is to the Sierra - which is specifically made for Palma rifles, where a 1:13" twist isn't unheard of. As for barrel cooling, I was taking at least thirty seconds between shots and letting the barrel cool completely between magazines.
  13. "If you want compliance with a stock saiga .308 with 20 round mags you only need to lose one imported part. (stock rifle=14 parts, magazine=3 of those 14 parts, so 14-3=11)" Very good to know.
  14. Just a couple of groups from my day at the range. Both were shot using reloads consisting of 155 grain SMK bullets over 42 grains of IMR 8208 powder in Federal cases with CCI Benchrest primers. 100 Yards That's seven shots out of a total of ten. The group is approximately one inch wide. Of the other three, two went way high, and the other was pulled low to the right. The two that went high were the first in their respective magazines. My rifle was doing this all day and I have no idea why. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 200 Yards That's six shots, out of eight. The first two were high, then I adjusted down and got this group. As you might expect, it's probably a little more than two inches wide. This was the last and best group I got at two hundred yards. Dispersion in previous groups seem to have been the result of a loose handguard. This was fired right after I tightened it.
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