cscharlie

The area where the safety arm typicaly contacts the trigger is shadowed in the picture. From what I can tell, seems there needs to be some material added to extend the safety arm so as to make contact with the rear right of the trigger. If you can get someone with a welder to lay a bead across there, then you could grind the excess off to reach the length it needs to make contact with the saftey. Personaly I don't use safties any more than I have to. I keep the chamber empty until about ready to fire. They are good to have working when you need them though.

A lot of times they need to be tweeked. Sometimes they need to be welded up an reground. I've seen the G2 need a little ground off the back edge to still clear. Also seen the safety arm need to be heated and bent to a different angle. If you remove the dust cover and observe the safety arm and its relationship to the trigger with the dust cover off. Squeeze the trigger with the safety on and you'll prob get some idea of what needs to change. If you can post some pictures it might help us give more specific advise.

Can you watch as you hold the reciever still an tell where the movement is? You said that the allen heads are loctited, are you positive that they were tightened all the way first? I seen someone use an Ace bock and not use all the screws before. That allowed the block to wiggle when fired.

Message sent. It's been a week and a half since I paypaled the payment to you. Have you shipped the sight yet? Thanks NO PROBLEM, THANKS FOR GETTING BACK TO ME SO QUICK!

I think I seen a pic of Uncle Ted holding a bolt gun painted like that.

Check it out! Hornady 7.62x39mm V-max load! And plans for 5.45x39mm selfdefense loads! The story says that they are importing steel cases to lower the cost. Might be nice if Hornady started producing primers to reload the cases also. I wonder what the price will be? http://www.tacticalgunfan.com/index.php?op...53&Itemid=1

Message sent. It's been a week and a half since I paypaled the payment to you. Have you shipped the sight yet? Thanks

In another thread someone posted that there was mention of a model that will work with an underfolder. A lot of us cut the stock tang off to mount reciever blocks to work with Ace folding stocks.. Are there any plans to offer a model that would work without the tang?

Now for the million dollar question. Are the tech sites designed to work if you cut the dang tang? From the picture it looks like the answer is yes. I'm not finding much in the way of rails with integrated rear peep site that work without the rear tang.

I think the 3006 model would fly off the shelves if it were set up more like an AK for easy conversion, rather the Saiga-100 model.

I know of atleast one state where it is compltely up to the County Sherrif as to whether or not he issues a permit without giving reason. They do not have to justify their decision. The sherriff can also revoke your permit at any time again without reason. They can also put any restrictions on it that they want like "valid only when at state approved firing range, or only valid when carrying more than $500.00. A lot of them only issue to their golf buddies, or family members. Some won't even issue personal carry permits to their own deputies. One of the first things you are told when going t

That is a cool looking color scheme! I think if the barrel was orange and the thread protector was black, it would fit with the rest of the gun better. It might also save you from beeing sued and loosing in civil court under some circumstances if you were to ever use it to defend yourself buy not having the muzzle painted orange like a toy.

This guy has a bunch of other auctions also. Wonder if he owns a pawn shop or something?

If I couldn't find a tap to chase the threads with, and was able to get the the factory plug to start into the threads, I might try using a little more force and see if that would straighten the threads. I'd do it a little at a time. Stopping and backing up before going forward just like tapping a hole. Edited to: change word tappet to plug.

You can pull the charging handle back until the rear of the bolt carrier makes contact with the hammer. While holding the carrier in that position, pull the trigger, releasing the hammer. Then move the charging handle forward until the action is closed, allowing the hammer to ride the bolt forward. Now release the trigger. If your not able to do it by feel, you can peek through the right side to see when the carrier is making contact with the hammer.

When you figure $180 for the DPH Beryl rail, and another $65 for the XS rear sight, at a total of $245 plus the extra shipping cost of an additional order, you're better off spending the $275 on the Krebs rail that is engineered to put the rear sight at the correct height in the first place. Especially if further mods are required to make the two parts work together in this application that were never designed to. Seems logical when looking at it like that. I have a rail that was imported from Germany for something like $40.00. If their was a dove tail slot milled across the bac

I've not seen a SGM rail inperson. I read a post on here that said theirs is solid.

For me, I think that the low weaver back up would still be too high. I'm not sure I could raise the front sight post enough to work right. It looks like I would need the rear appeture to sit right on top of the rail.

If you were buying them for an AR, it would likely cost considerably more than that.

To bad they are not 80% recievers.

I've tried several budget optics in the past. If you need something that you can count on to work, the Russian made stuff like the Kobra, and PK-01 are dependable as long as they are not defective. They tend to be rugged, but heavy and bulky. Another one that I would consider is the SPOT. It Has something like a 40 hour battery life, which is kind of short. It is a tube design that can mount low simular to the aimpoint. Most of the other low end stuff are made like toys and don't hold zero or they break easy. Edited to add:I've not tried the Muller that was refered to above, but their oth

I want about a 1" section of the muzzle end of a Saiga 7.62x39mm barrel that is in decent condition. Longer is even better. Maybe the section someone cut off when deciding to cut and recrown their 20" barrel. Feel free to send me a message. Thanks.

How bout you post pics of the inside of the reciever with the dust cover, bolt, and recoil spring assembly removed with the mag inserted to show the FCG and top of the mag ect...

You might try prying the clamping part open a little and then see if it will slide onto the rail.

Here is a link to a preorder thread. You can preorder the 1st run grips from Power Custom for $16.99+$2.00 shipping. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&...23&t=677829