bkbville

Anyone know where I can get a trigger guard for the sporter configuration Saiga x39? I had converted mine to pistol grip years ago, and then had to convert it back (... oh the sufferings of living in the peoples republic of NY...) The problem is I had cut the original trigger guard to do the original conversion, so it looks like crap. I'd like to clean it up, but can't seem to locate one.

Some do - I know the Lonewolf glock barrels are 1/2-28, at least for 9mm. I was thinking the 300 ACC were, but they are 9/16. I know it's the norm, but I'm not excited about 14x1LH.

I cant' believe nobody has asked this but a search went empty... Can an 7.62x39 barrel be threaded to 1/2-28? I figure doing so would open up my options for breaks (albeit expensive AR brakes...)

Any know whats up with the integrated sights? Are they flip up? I've only seen pictures that have no detail

What's the best way to modify the standard forearm on the Saiga? I drilled some vent holes, but want to make them more oblong. I find this material very difficult to work with, even with my dremel. any magic bullets here?

Actually I Oxyblued it - comes out black - blends right in.

I made this mod to my selector switch. This allows me to take the safety off without taking my hand off the pistol grip, loose sight picture, or turn the rifle. The screw does not rub. Drilling the hole was challenging (who would of thought the steel in the safety was hardened?) The round acorn nut does not catch. This was a $0.33 4mmx15mm screw and a $0.84 5mm acorn nut.... about $43 cheaper than the Krebs selector. I may spring for an $0.05 lock washer if I find it works loose. When I get to painting this rifle I'll paint the nut to match. Taking the rifle off sa

I just heard from Dinzag - they don't do rentals anymore because they were getting ripped off!

I'm in central NY, near Syracuse.

I'd like to add a break to my saiga. The tools are a bit pricy for a one-off project. Can anyone recommend someplace to rent these? (I thought Dinzig used to rent these but I can't find it any longer on the site.) Thanks

Are the bulgy's dated at all?

Most if not all of the side mounts let you use the irons (I have 3 different ones, and they all do.) I'd actually like one lower - cheek weld (chin weld in this case) is an issue.

How is the pistol grip on the Timbersmith? It looks thin and maybe a bit uncomfortable? I'm eying the black laminate for my 308

I read folks replacing the Saiga gas tube with a ventilated one (generally when using AK lower handguards) Has anyone ventilated the stock Saiga gas tube? First - I'm assuming the purpose is to reduce the speed of the returning bolt carrier? (Hence smoothing it out, and maybe keeping the brass within 20 feet!)

In a buried thread (I didn't want to bump it) there was discussion of a mag adapter for the 308 Saiga that would let it use HK (I think) mags (i.e. real cheap hi-caps) Is that still vaporware?

More barrels are damaged by excessive/aggressive cleaning and not actually shot-out. Ask a barrel manufacturer.

The stock model is proportioned wrong - if you are prone trying to put your elbow under the rifle you can't get to handguard because the trigger is too far back; I have to angle out to hold it. Try that with an AK or conversion and the whole thing fits nicely.

When I picked up my .308 Saiga I didn't hesitate - I wanted the longer 22" barrel. Now I'm looking to add a .223 Saiga to the fold, but I'm less clear on what barrel length. Anyone with pro's & con's for 16 vs 21?

So - is this thing dead?

I'm guessing they really said - or mean - don't polish the bolt face down - which really means don't polish it too much as to effect headspace.

Like AK's and SKS's, Saiga's throw their brass forward. If you are a reloader (or just pick up your own trash) throwing the brass in front of the firing line means spending the cease fire looking for brass. This is hard especially since there is thick and sometimes tall grass where the brass lands. On a quick pass I can recover 60% of my brass; later on I can find much, but typically loose 10-20%. A brass catcher is the obvious solution, but I wanted to see if anyone has ever tried to modify the ejector to throw brass in more to the right, like an AR? There are a couple of thread

Someone correct me if I'm in error - but the CCI mil-spec "hard" primers are in fact magnum.

Does anyone have data on the lenghts of the various fixed buttstocks that can be used in a conversion? I'm looking for the length of the Tapco fixed, Kvar, and the Krinkov stuff thats around? One of the driving factors for me to convert is the factory config is simply poor fitting compared to my Wasr, but I don't want to end up buying a stock that is too long to use with the pistol grip.

There is removing the FSB and gasblock and pressing on a standard AK retainer (a lot of work), and then there is the two part bolt-together retainer (expensive.) The first method is difficult (at least for me) and the second a bit expensive. Has anyone come up with other ways to use AK hand guards on Saigas?