Sunset_Va

I had one from Ace on my converted 308, wish I had kept it when I sold the rifle. Best pistol grip for any AK in my opinion. Consider yourself lucky to have that one, I am wondering if a stock FAL grip would fit the AK?

The grip really sets off nicely that rifle with the adapter installed. Just wandered in on this thread/topic, but product looks interesting to me, unfamiliar with it, does it require trunion machining?

Try a Nikon P223, a fixed power , small high quality optic, meant to be used with both eyes open. Under $200, excluding mount, I have one with Warne quick release mounts, just make sure your mount will let you mount it further back for proper eye relief, as most low power scopes don't have long eye relief distance. Plus it's calibrated for the .223 cartridge, very crisp and clear glass, with P4 type recticle. Nikon makes a mounting system for the P223, I didn't like it, because it slides onto your rail instead of clamping onto during installation.

I like that design. More http://www.turbosquid.com/HDView/index.cfm/ID/680049/r/3/i/1

It's a great way to carry and protect your rifle/shotgun, I have one I purchased for $29 at Sportsmanship Guide couple of years ago, I originally purchased it for my Mossberg 590A1, but fits my Saiga 223 unconverted without optics. You can sling it across your back and carry your rifle hands free, it only has one sling however, for the most comfortable carry , get another sling/strap to carry like a backpack. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/molle-shoulder-military-surplus-shotgun-scabbard.aspx?a=562602

Oh, no reason to apologize, I had a S308 exactly like yours and felt the same about shooting it. I converted the first one, but sold it, it had wood furniture like yours with the 21" barrel. Couple of years ago found a used S308 21" in excellent condition with polymer furniture. Am keeping this one and leaving it stock. Keep us posted . Do remember, most S308's are accurate with ammo that is mated to that particular rifle, but won't equal the accuracy of a DSA 308 FAL, or a higher end bolt rifle.

Look at some Rhinelander stocks or adapt a PSL front forearm which both are wood. Only reason I suggested those is I cannot think of a stock appearing forearm without rails, you could paint the wood stocks

$650. + - $50 ea. To me, that would be fair price for seller and buyer in today's market and yesterday's market too. Factor in shipping too. You asked, this is just my pricing, based on if they were mine and I was selling. And it's what I would pay if I was buying.

Your experience in vendors is why I learned to do refinishing with various spray on finishes. Years ago , I sent a pistol to a well known plating company, had to get a lawyer to get it back, and when it was finally returned, the slide had been buffed lopsided prior to plating...no mention of reimbursement, etc. If you have stripped it down that far, you should have sent it to a well known vendor if you couldn't do the work yourself, just make sure you have all the parts you want refinished before shipping, but sorry you had a bad encounter with your AK parts.

Thank you for the advice, I had looked at many optic setups, but really liked the clarity of this Nikon, as I had been able to look at one in a gunshop. Liked the Lower magnification of the P223, as it could be used on my Ruger PC4 also, ignoring thr BDC marks. I had also looked at Hawke scopes, the illuminated 1.25 x 4 power model, but liked the 223 designed setup of the P223. I also have another Nikon, an African Monarch, 1.25 x 4, with the German post recticle on my Remington 597 22 magnum. LOL, no , not considering converting my Saiga, I am in the 1% that like the stock setup.

I just purchased a Nikon P223 scope from Cabelas, and set of Warne Quick Detach High Mount rings from Walmart to install on my Saiga 223 . The scope arrived Tuesday and rings today, so I installed them late today, Have not had a chance to sight rifle in by firing. I tried sighting the scope in using a optic bore sight (not laser) , but wasnt able to do that, so I will buy a laser bore sight kit as soon as possible. I hope I didnt make a mistake by getting the High Scope rings. I must say, the eye relief is on the borderline, I chose the Quick Detach rings vs the P Mount by Nikon, because

I have a stock 21" barreled Saiga 223, and prefer it stock, there is nothing wrong with converting any stock Saiga if that is what you want, but some of us like Saiga's with rifle stocks. I installed the TWS sight rail system, threaded the muzzle for a Vortex, changed to standard black AK hand guards using a CSS hand guard retainer, fiber optic front sight and use the Saiga 10 round mags most of the time. No the trigger's not perfect, but I don't think it's as bad as some describe, if you coat the trigger works with Moly Resin, like I did, it smooths the pull up to a degree. The w

I cut my 21" barrel down to 18" when I did my conversion several years ago, and liked it so much better. Sadly sold the rifle, but to me the rifle balanced so much better when bringing it up to fire offhand. I added a Vortex flash hider, which was about 1.5" in length, so I was still shorter than the stock bbl. I also crowned it myself, no, it wasn't a high $ conversion, but I liked it, and all the changes were made safely. Let me see if I can find the photo of it. I currently have a stock 21" Saiga 308, don't plan on converting.

If you are, here is a 5 rounder for your post conversion rifle: http://www.k-var.com...&cat=420&page=1 The Bulgarian mags like that won't work in a Saiga, I also tried some Arsenal 10 round mags similar to the stock Saiga mags, they wouldn't fit without some alterations. Please correct me if I am mistaken about the Bulgarian mags.

I have done that (turning down) the front sight on AK's for years. If that is what you want to try, go for it, I like to taper the front sight post from top to bottom, and often put a dot of paint (white,red,orange,whatever) to help, although you may not want to do that. Front sight posts for the AK are cheap...go ahead and try it. Use your own judgement, and not anyone's else's as to what works best for you. I have also used the conversion to install a AR style sight too, that is something else to ponder.

I have a Mojo standard sight on my Saiga 308, and really like it. Also have the TWS sight system (aperture) on my Saiga 223, and like that better than the Mojo. The aperture opening on the Mojo is much larger than the TWS peep. I moved the TWS way forward on the rail, in order to just see the front sight post only and not the sight wings. I vote for Mojo...

My advice is to purchase one of the Texas Gun Works railed dust covers with the peep sight for about the $150, I have a 20" model with it, and it makes a world of difference in sighting, either with optics or the peep sight. I know many will flog me for this, but I don't have a problem with either the stock configuration or the stock trigger, I have done 2 conversions , and just like the stock rifle setup better for the use I give the rifle. Flog away.

Cutting the barrel shroud took 3 X's as long as threading the barrel, Hopefully will post some photos later this week, installed a Vortex flash hider. It would look so much neater to butt the flash hider against the FSB, but that would mean cutting the barrel in order to backspace the threading to fit the flash hider. I just hate the 1/2" or so gap between FSB and Flash Hider. I did take some ones advice and use a pipe wrench to twist the cut section off .

Parf Thanks for the tip about Dinzags instructions, I have read it previously, but I was considering that procedure was for the kits/dies/threading that he sells. "When I , I lucked out and only had to do the one pass. I'd still back off intermittently on the second pass, though you might be able to gt away with doing it less frequently" Great help from the video Dr Thunder. I am gonna dive in with it tomorrow.. Thanks everyone for the help.

I will try it that way.........thanks , perhaps could ask CSS to include a brief pictorial guide with a die purchase.. of course..COUNTERCLOCKWISE

So the die with size markings is face down in contact with the barrel muzzle? Do I still need to reverse it when chasing threads after first cut? thanks!

Keep forgetting to use the code.....not a big thing with me, I appreciate CSS offering it to forum members but, the service makes up for my forgetfulness!

I am glad I found this topic..I just ordered a 14 x 1 LH threading kit from CSS, and this is my second order from them, great service and prices! My question is which side of the threading die to I start the initial cut with? One side is marked with the Die size, the reverse side is blank. Should the side with the markings be on top , visible when I am starting the cut? Also does it matter which side of the threading die handle is facing up when threading? I know I begin the cut with one side, then after making first cut, use the other side to deepen threads after checking for fit

I just purchased a 14x1 LH die set from Carolina Shooters Supply... Before I email them (CSS), perhaps some one here has that same die and can tell me which side of the die do I start the first cut/initial threads with? The die has "Poland" on one side. No instructions came with the die set, and both sides look the same to me. This is for my 223 Saiga, also have the 223 TAT. I know after making the initial threads, I reverse it to deepen the threads after checking my muzzle attachment for fit. If any one knows, I would appreciate that info, if not, will contact CSS. Thanks.

Are the 2 Factory 223 10 round magazines sold? I am interested if they aren't. Had been searching for that type of mag, as always just found this ad too late if they are sold. Thanks..