Bossman

Looks nice, saiga`s and walnut go together ike peanut butter and jelly, here`s mine.... I cant take credit for the butt, I got it off gunbroker, but the HG and grip I made myself.

For those of you who have saiga 5.45x39 rifles, are the front trunions marked with the arrow in triangle arsenal mark? Thanks in advance, Scott

Nice Water Buffalo Spikester.

Well, I give in. I have looked at the Bulgy kit long enough and decided to build it, I mean the thing is brand spanking new and ALL matching(except for the US made barrel of course) I`m going to put K-Var black poly furniture on it instead of the wood that came with it, I`ll save the wood in it`s original unfinished state for future prosperity.The AK`s in my safe are all representations of their military counterparts,I have a PSL which is unmodified, a Romy G that I built to look like a romy G, I have an East German MPi-KM that I am building that will be hot blued and will be an attempt to mak

That sure looks like one of my furniture sets, damn fine work if you ask me. I got the Bulgy kits, the damn things are new and all matching from what I`ve de cosmoed so far, definitely matching on trunion, bolt, carrier and top cover. Shame they didnt include the optics rail. Now I`m starting to lean toward building he kit and custom converting the saiga...I might go for a Russian AKM look if I can use a 45 degree gas block in place of the 90 degree thats on it now, anyone know if I can do that? I could make up a laminate stock set like above but tone down the red a bit and make it look mor

Thanks Frank, I`ll do that if I can make up my mind. Lets see that stock set, I have put quite a few out there this year. So it seems like Frank and I see the value in getting all our parts for a saiga ak103 conversion from a Bulgy `74 kit and either sell off the rest or use it for a franken AK of some sort, everyone else likes the idea of building the kit. Well lets see what condition the kit is in before I decide, my major problem is I have been coveting one of the arsenal SGL rifles since they first hit the shops but the dealers/distributors were VERY proud of them as in $$$, I really rea

I do my own refinishing, I have compressor, sandblaster and airbrush. Satin black gunkote would look nice. Some earlier builds:

Thats not financially feasable, I want to keep this as cheap as possible besides, the rifle I could make with the spare parts would be just as nice if not better than a saiga 5.45

Tweezers and toothpick are a must, I also thought a corkscrew might come in handy. Seriously though after I strip the kit of all the parts look at what I`ll have left over: Barrel F&R trunions matching bolt and carrier the saiga top cover an optics rail the saiga mag latch recoil spring assy. The saiga sporting type furniture and a nodak receiver..... I will probably destroy the saiga gas block and front sight getting them off because they are the dimpled kind rather than the pinned on type so I may have to hunt down a 90 degree gas block. I have a romy take off front sight from

I bought one of the bulgarian ak-74 parts kits from apex for $245, primarily to rob the muzzle brake, FSB, gas block, handguard retainer, gas tube and trigger guard from the kit to use on my saiga ak103 clone. Will these parts fit? I was guessing they would when I whipped the plastic but just in case I bought a NDS2EZ receiver just in case. If they do fit I still have most of a rifle to build into a 5.45x39 utility rifle, which would be kinda neat.

Put it on lay away but did a good examination because this one is definately getting converted. This rifle has dimples, also has the pistol grip hole already cut out, the trunion has the izshevsk arrow in a triangle mark and the serial number H08601xxx I removed the handguard and the longitudinal slots for the lower handguard retainer are already machined into the barrel, the half round locking lever cut was not. I want to put a whole new trigger guard assembly on it (I have the riveting jig) I`m assuming the standard AKM style will fit? I also want to use the gas block and front sight post

I had the same trouble with mine pressing down on the gas tube. I solved the problem by adding thin strips of brass bar stock between the upper and lower halves. The brass strips can be found at most hobby shops that have a display of small diameter brass and aluminum metal rods and tubes. The 1/16"x3/16" brass strip is what you need.

For the maximum intended range of lets say....300 yards I would stay with a fixed power scope of no more than 4x, I would want an illuminated reticle and I would want the scope to be short and lightweight and on a quick detachable mount so I could snatch it off if it fails and still have my irons. I would also spend as much money as I could afford on the scope, there IS a difference and you do get what you pay for when it comes to glass, buy a quality mount and rings as well.www.swfa.com has a link to their "sample list" which are dealer samples and such that may have been used lightly but wi

Either buy one of the trigger pin or "fcg" retaining plates-best $12 you`ll spend- or take the hammer/trigger pins to ace hardware and get the proper size "E" clips that will snap onto the groove. Please dont drive yourself into the loony bin trying to manipulate that retaining wire back into place, I am just stable enough to function in society, one more retaining wire fiasco for me and I`m checking in to the state hospital for good. Bossman

Guys, the saiga .308 has a spring loaded firing pin, use whatever primers you like. I used federal gold medal match in my saiga .308 and never had a problem. Check your firing pin to be sure first, pull the bolt out of the rifle, put your thumbnail on the back of the firing pin, give it a push....does it spring back? If so, good to go...use any primers with complete safety. If the firing pin rattles back and forth freely...use the CCI #34 primers. Bossman

Pardon moi, I didnt see it when I first looked, s`cuse my iggernance.

http://www.onpointfirearms.com/saiga/Saiga_Fact_Sheet.pdf Me want!

I`ve got a converted .308 16" with US made walnut furniture I`ll trade ya. The bipod and 20 round mag stay with me though. e-mail me if interested scottbox1 at hotmail.com

Many pawnshops use BLACKHORSE as the code, to indicate the amount of $$ they have in the item. 10 digits from 1 to 0 BEE is $100, LKE is $250, ACBH is $3416 etc. this is usually listed after the ticket number the item was originally pawned or purchased on. This is done so the clerk will know how much is invested in the item and he or she will know how much they can dicker and still stay within the shops acceptable range of profit, which is usually triple what they have in it for most items but may be double for firearms. Sample pawn shop price tag: Norinco SKS $299 124532-OK

Me and the PU

Guys, I need the little metal clamp that secures the front of the wood handguard to the pin on the gas block,I e-mailed RAA but got no response.

Poncho, have you checked with battlerifleG3? he has a post on the for sale forum, he makes a stock very similar to the one pictured.

Probably the 22" due to the longer sight radius.

Actually from my experience and that of quite a few others it seems that the 16" is just a tad MORE accurate than the 22" Maybe it`s the barrel harmonics, who knows but my 16" is a fuzz more accurate than my 22". With a red star trigger and carefully tuned handloads my 22" would do 1.25" at 100 yds from the bench, my 16" shoots 1" with handloads and once in a while if I hold my mouth just right and I didnt drink too much coffee that morning I can squeeze in a sub MOA group. Funny thing is, both rifles shot their best with 125 gr. ballistic tips, 150 gr. bullets in both gave ho-hum performan