whathasn'tbeenused

heres is what i've been able to find out..... Non-American shotguns (12 GA.) normally have a true bore diameter of approximately .005 less than US barrels or generally have a true bore diameter of .725 ^this is taken from a chart i found on a few choke tube makers websites and other places around the web... but, i also have a dial caliper that i hope is accurate like it is supposed to be, and i have a saiga 12 and i have all but the paradox choke so here is the rundown of the measurements i've been able to gather and how they compare with "understood" measurements ok, my "cyl

testing in water....milk jugs.... a wolf hp will penetrate around 4-5 milk jugs and will have the back end of the bullet squished a little....they look like "the magic bullet" then was consistent on over 20 or 30 recovered so no they do not expand

i'd trade you 2 any day of the week

so i've read that a true cylinder bore 12ga is like .729 the largest reading i've got from my caliper for my iz109 is .722 which is in between skeet 1(.724) and improved cyl.(.720) they also tell me the metric barrels have an id thats .005 less than us made....so that gives us .724 or skeet 1 so is this too much squueze to be shotting either solid projectiles or sabots? i could see that the chrome lining could knock the id from .724 to .722 because is can go on thick right? but again can i shoot sabots from my saiga 12

if someone has changed out theirs or has done something crazy and has one i need the hell out of one, please pm me and let me know

i glock 17-34-or 17l will be the best buy you ever make

i have a few dif ak platform weapons and i can say they will interchange but tollerences will vary often extremely....a saftey might go in a gun just fine, but not want to come back out, or it wont really work, or it'll work too well and not be able to go over the "back of the trigger ears"

ak recievers will cost you drill bits...cobalts works the best

i cut a couple inches off my tapco t-6 tube and put a car 4 pos rear end on it.....now when i collapse it all the way its tiny

i've made a few bho saftey levers, did my s-12 last night....i dont just cut a notch, i did once and it is a pita to line it up right, i just pull the bolt back mark about how far back it should be and remove the whole top corner of the safety lever, that way when i pull back and toss the safety up i dont have to line up, it just goes

the hard part about installing an underfolder is drilling the 2 big holes on each side.... i'm about 99% sure that your 4(2 on each side) rear trunion holes will line up but you'll need a bottom hole on each side.... the uf uses 5 rivits instead of 2... one long one at the top back and a short one on the front of each side and a short one on the bottom of each side.. and in the middle of those on both sides you need a about half inch hole for the underfolder "hinge" when i built my polish underfolder i used a long rivit on the top and screws for the other four holes....

they also look like they can be cut in half, the middle rib is prominent

all right, so after years of wanting i finally got me a saiga 12 a 109, paid on the high end for it but ohh well, i've wanted one for years and never saw another(after the first i saw) untill a few months back i had the parts around to convert it (i've been playing with saigas and ak's for several years now) so i did i used a stock i had kinda "rigged" the tube of a tapco t-6 cut down with a 4-pos car stock(the 6-pos is shaped different, and bigger and hits me in the cheek for some reason. the 4-pos cures this i dont know if its always had this problem or if it has developed bu