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CR1

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About CR1

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston, Tx
  • Interests
    Saigas, CZ-75 derivatives, Bibles
  1. It's been a while since I was here, but I finally gave in and had Keith Nels here in Houston convert my Saiga-308. Since then I put some tritium sights onto the carbine and zeroed it in dead on yesterday at 100 meters. Now I am a bit worried about muzzle flash if I go hog hunting or plinking at night--has anyone here moved their factory front sight base back and threaded it to 5⁄8"-24 tpi to accept a compensator? So far the VLTOR is the only muzzle device I think looks cool enough to put on my rifle. Here is a link to the part itself: http://www.vltor.com/compensators.html
  2. Yeah, ban this guy, just got spammed.

  3. I voted for the Saiga .308 and later was given a S&W M&P 15, which is supposed to be one of the nicer previously $1,000 AR's. From my experience the 5.56 round from a carbine works as moderately OK all-around cartridge. You can fire enough rounds out of it fast enough to compete with a shotgun, it's compact and light enough to use to clear a room as well as a handgun, and it can reach pretty far. But then there's the Saiga .308 carbine which kicks everything else's a$$ at everything ever. I say get the saiga and a Kel-Tec PLR-16 just so you can use them STANAG 5.56 magazines. T
  4. Desert dog, I practiced some mag changes with my saiga .308 and found that I ended up doing them like the tactical M1A mag changes. As for pistol against semi-pistol grips, my experience has shown me that with practice I can do the same room clearing exercises with any firearm with a barrel 18 inches and under. I've been a big fan of carbines ever since having to carry and do room clearing exercises with the M16. My wording was pretty bad in that I said the modern US weapons are ONLY good for close quarters battles. It's more that I'm not wearing a MICH helmet and an IBA in the civilian
  5. Desert dog, doesn't this whole body armor and gear thing bring up a further gap between civilian and military weapons? Semiautomatic submachine guns are almost completely useless as a civilian when compared to full-sized handguns. We also can't use 3 round burst or fully automatic anything, except if you have a lot of money or live out in the country. In civilian life I don't see myself wearing tons or body armor and heavy gear comparable to what a soldier wears on a patrol. I see myself as hunting, home defense, or in some weird situation having to defend the streets. I think the ide
  6. I don't see what's so great about the original AK set-up. I don't like pistol grips, they give me worse handling. Moisin-Nagants, Lee-Enfields, M1903's, M1917's, M1 Garands, M1 carbines, M14 and M1A's, BAR's; all these weapons functioned perfectly fine with straight and semi-pistol grip stocks in killing massive numbers of Nazis. I personally think that when running across a street or crawling in mud that old-fashioned stocks work much better than pistol grip long guns. People in the late 1800's didn't seem to have much of a problem operating lever action carbines either. The Arm
  7. The piece looks like it's a couple of years old, maybe 3 or 4 years. It's pretty pale, doesn't feel moist at all, and one of the edges that was cut kinda unevenly has some flaking.
  8. I imagine that the density and water resistance of white oak will make it not shrink very much; hopefully I'm right. I'll know how this project works out in about three weeks. And sharps, what is the suitability of oak for gun stocks? White oak specifically, it's almost worlds away from red oak.
  9. CR1

    Muzzle flash

    Now THAT'S how everyone should think of their weapons. If I want to go all tactical I'll just use my M4; if I want to go accurate I'll use a bolt-action, but with everything else the gigantic muzzle flash looks like fireworks and warms my heart like the 4th of July.
  10. Are you going to use a scope or iron sights for the rifle? You really don't need much of a cheek piece for iron sights, but if you're using a scope you might just want to buy the pre-made furniture. Scopes on the .308 can get annoying because of the recoil and something really comfortable is nice, but with the iron sights you can hold it like a shotgun and aim well.
  11. I'm going to make a butt stock for my 16" Saiga .308 out of some really nicely grained while oak I got ahold of. Despite some people saying that oak sucks for rifle stocks, I'm still going to make the stock out of the oak. It has a good long straight grain with no inconsistencies of any kind. I heard that white oak can corrode with long-term contact with ferrous metals, so on the parts where wood meets metal I'm going to put on some thick enamel. I'm not particularly concerned with making it thin or pretty; just thick, heavy, and strong. I want the wood to balance the heavy barrel of t
  12. You can always make wood furniture for it yourself. I practiced with a pine 2x4 just to make sure it would work and later I'm going to make a butt for my 16" .308 out of some american walnut. I say, don't bother with paying for the overpriced pre-made crap, just buy a good piece of wood and work on it for several hours. If you break it you can always make a new one.
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