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Posts posted by thx1971

  1. Is the op rod REALLY REALLY loose on the bolt carrier? It is hitting and bouncing, either something is moving slightly askew, or there is a resonance somewhere that is causing the bolt to move around and not go true. Could be anywhere, but the extractor claw is another good place to look. It could be off square, or otherwise deflecting the bolt.

    Ill check out the op rod I never gave it much thought if it was loose .Thanks

  2. Ive owned my S-12 since 2009 and its had about 700 rounds through it since new . What causes those wear marks and does anyone else have them? I was wondering if the recoil spring guide is sloppy causing the charging handle to float around ...I dont know.    Its always shot fine but the wear seems kind of excessive .











  3. There are lots of threads about them. I'll try to give you a fair summary.


    There is a US made version and a chinese. Teh US is about $20 more. Most people who have them like them for a couple years then change out for something light and plastic.


    The cantilever is a crummy way to mount an optic, because it twangs like a diving board. One of the older 50%Tactical vids has decent slow mo of that by accident. Two videos later there is no UTG rail on there... 


    The UTG rail clamps onto the gas tube and onto the barrel. Some people had issues with them working loose. Others found the pressure on the gas tube made a reliable gun unreliable. Most find they work and never think about it.


    The CSS rail is well made but kinda heavy. It is a little narrower than the Chaos, which I like, but there is a lot of metal not cut out of it. 


    The Chaos rail is the lightest of the bunch with the highest build quality. I find it a very uncomfortable shape to hold without an AFG on it. With an AFG it is OK. If I wanted a quad, it would be a chaos. His prices are currently very low for what you are getting.


    IMO quad rails suck for the fingers. 


    I actually like the tapco intrafuse forend.


    The real question is how much of the function of the gun do you want to give up for looks?

    Yeah kinda wanted it too be light and sturdy  with some looks to it  I dont want alot of weight on the S12.  I wliked the idea of the Chaos full rail with HK sights but the whole weight issues comes into effect

  4. Selling my  S12 trigger guard with all the hardware and SAW grip  to fund another project  . Its in great condition I bought it from Ray at Saigatech a few years ago I opted for the steel version for better rigidity its painted in BBQ black paint . The safety stop catch  is  angled perfectly so the saftey lever sits where it should when in fire position.  Also the front button head screw does not require a washer and is the correct length to not protrude into the finger area, only the rear screws require  washers as seen in photos for anyone curious to know why theres no washer on  the front screw.  Other then that its done its job  is stout and sturdy and never gave me any problems be perfect for someone doing thier conversion.







    $65.00 /Shipped




  5. I bought this S12 back in 2009 . Shot 3" Winchester mags through it  before I even knew what the gas adjustment setting was for and numerous Wal Mart loads  just wondering if whatever setting it was on caused to much gas in the system and slammed that charging handle into the rear trunnion.. You guys think it looks  ok or is it pretty common looking. I notice a little mushrooming on the tang that hits the trigger. Thanks





  6. I saw that no one answered you.There are two springs on the guide rod. The front one from my early EAA import Iz108 measures 6 1/8" (Very low miles) I would have to punch out a pin to measure the other one. For all I know it is shorter. I wouldn't worry about it too much. The front spring from my 2008 IZ109 was 6". That one has seen several thousand rounds.


    People used to use 1911 guide springs for low brass tunes and to run soft loads at the competition for a day and then swap back to factory so they can run real ammo. I don't know how advisable this is for lock time issues, but Wolf 1911 springs are available in many steps. It is possible you have one of these, but you can always get a 1911 spring a little softer or harder if needed. I would say that if they appear to have the same finish and take the same amount of force to compress you are probably ok.


    And no springs do not loose tension and expand. The only things that hurt a spring are over compressing past the torsion point or over extending it. Storing under tension has no effect, unless you were to heat it or rust it.

    Thanks for the info,, i forgot to say these two springs are the forward return springs ,
  7. Well I went to the gun show the other day and found a factory return spring at least I hope it is. Anyway I was wondering why the springs are different in lengths . My spring is the grayer looking one that I sand blasted due to corrosion on it and the other spring (the shorter one ) is the one I got at the gun show straight off a S12 return spring guide . The shorter spring hasnt been cut at all .




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