NCShooter

You are learning!! Very good. I did have to spell out the pattern for you in detail. But the fact that you are quitting before the embarrassing part where you are totally revealed and you lose your cool, like you did last time, is a very positive sign. You started this part, this time, again, and its smart to let me end it here. Fair enough. >>>>>I have nothing further to say to you Really, now. Where have we heard this before? Numerous times, it would seem. So, is this really the last time? Cool with me. I hope it is really so. And, as always, you ca

Woofer says: >>>>Thank you for your crude attempt at psycho-analysis. Let's leave that for the qualified professionals. Then, Woofer immediately does what he asked me not to do: >>>>>>Your objectivity is a little skewed since you have less than altruistic motives. Feelin a little mixed up today, or do your rights really extend farther than mine, somehow? Isn't the idea that others are not entitled to the same rights as you the very definition of bigotry? Not only are you a mind reader who knows how altruistic my motives are.... Well, all this

Mr. Guest, Well said. I'd like to add that: - to a true leader, a troll is a mythical creature, not someone who posts on the internet. A true leader accepts the rights of all to post as they please. *- to a leader wannabe, a troll is anyone who's posts make them feel insecure in their imagined position of pseudo-leadership. *- to a lazy person, a troll is anyone who posts material to which they would like to reply intelligently, but can't be bothered to exert the effort to do so. *- to many, a troll is anyone they disagree with but can't quite figure out why - to

Woofer, Parting is such sweet sorrow... Its been real, and its been fun. But it ain't been real fun. Don't let the screen door close on your tail on your way out.

Oh yeah, that's just what I need - yet another job! Thanks, but no thanks! DIY, man! If someone doesn't have experience or confidence, they can practice on other similar stuff they have laying around. Try prepping and making a nice finish on the bottom half of the metal part of a shovel, then a hammer, or whatever. Include a masking procedure in the test to get a feel for the tape and how it interacts with the edge of the paint film. After that turns out good, move on to guns. I've been painting stuff for years and have learned its always good to test all aspects of any new (to

My pleasure. But the good stuff came from members above with more real experience, and from the info and link Dodge provided - I just organized it and made a few observations. I'll let you know how my first MolyResin project turns out.

Bvamp, Thanks for the reply. Interesting stuff. Some work things have come up I've got to tend to. I'll get back with you on this tomorrow, probably, or the next day. NCShooter

And why does everything you write read like.... Well, never mind. I guess its just different styles of communication, Bvamp. I'm glad we're not all the same. If that's your major gripe with me now, I'd say we are doing well, brother. I was considering your idea: ================= >>>>the next time you are argueing about gun control with someone that is against guns, ask them this: so what you are saying is that handguns and assualt weapons are bad, very bad.... right? well, how do you feel about telescopic sights then? they multiply EVERY gun's lethality

Pertinent notes from arfcom (link from Dodge, above): ============================ I sent AK-USA an e-mail inquiring about their refinishing. From my understanding this baked-on laquor [enamel is what AK-USA site says - NCS] they use is most like the original russian finish....even more durable then it. I was curious and sent an e-mail asking what they price would be to refinish an AKS-74. He wrote back to me and said it would be around $275-$300 WOW! ===================================== Price sounds correct. To save money on my build I had him refinish the recevier only. That c

Heard Stern a couple times, years ago. Why, does he say that a lot?

Hey Dodge, What does it cost? What finish does he use? I guess one would have to mail the piece to him? EDIT: OK, did a little research - That Chris Butler - of AK-USA Powder coat must be the serious stuff - I read one review that said his AK-USA powder-coat job was more durable than one he had in GunKote. Any price quotes?

Hey Gaddis, A very good point you bring up - it's always some damn thing, isn't it? * That post insults OUR intelligence cause EVERYONE here already knows everything. Whaaa! * Posts in this thread are getting off topic - that's not what *I* wanted to talk about; I didn't want to talk about THAAAT. Whaaa! * Quit saying that - you're a butthole for saying that. Whaaa! * That post was just too long, and I just don't know how to stop reading stuff I'm either not interested in or don't have the attention span to finish. Whaaa! * This talk isn't MANLY enough, quit talki

Overview of refinishing choices and points: It seems MolyResin and GunKote absolutely need to be completely baked at the recommended temp for the recommended time - heat lamps aren't going to cut it for these type finishes. In the troubleshooting of problems on these finishes I've read that they can remain "soft" in places if the temp is too low. By soft, here, I mean slightly softer than regular spray paint, and susceptible to partial removal by regular cleaning chemicals or abrasion (holster wear, etc). If you go to the trouble and expense of this type finish - get it right. These

If you ordered them from Finland, seems like there must be more than mail delay - mine arrived about 8 days after I ordered them - "Economy Parcel". Customs?

I've just been waiting for the right time to start refinishing a pistol that has considerable holster wear, including some sweat-induced rust pitting. I have decided on Molyresin (the same type of finish as GunKote?). There is a very detailed tutorial over at AK47.net (I think?). The overview of the process is to disassemble, degrease, sandblast all parts back to bare metal, degrease again, preheat metal to 100 degrees F in oven or with heat gun, spray on finish with an airbrush, let dry for an hour (dry to touch), and then bake at 350 F for an hour. That finish is supposed to