Jump to content

KELORGO

Member
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About KELORGO

  • Rank
    Member
  1. I posted this in the general discussion section, but I'll also post it here since I shoot a .223 Saiga: I hope this link works. I stumbled onto this new sight for AK's while looking for 10/22 sights. Looks like a great way to upgrade the iron sights on an AK without resorting to welding on H&K style sights. The prices for their 10/22, SKS, etc. sights range from about $50 up to $70, so the AK sights should be priced reasonably as well. www.tech-sights.com/ak.htm I've never tried to put a direct link into a post before, so you may have to copy and paste the link into your search window. Duplicate thread; already in general section.
  2. I hope this link works. I stumbled onto this new sight for AK's while looking for 10/22 sights. Looks like a great way to upgrade the iron sights on an AK without resorting to welding on H&K style sights. The prices for their 10/22, SKS, etc. sights range from about $50 up to $70, so the AK sights should be priced reasonably as well. http://www.tech-sights.com/ak.htm I've never tried to put a direct link into a post before, so you may have to copy and paste the link into your search window.
  3. Guys, for now I'd like to keep my rifle in the non-converted form. Will the fire control group that Dinzag sells for the non-converted (FCG not moved) rifles improve the trigger pull as compared to the stock trigger? I believe they are the only ones selling this option. Does anyone have experience with this TAPCO fire control group? Lastly, how many 922r compliant parts would this FCG add?
  4. SPDSniper, I missed the part of your first post that said you can't find a forearm retaining screw. On my rifle, the screw is under the receiver and immediately behind where the forearm enters the receiver. It is a flat-tip screwdriver style. That should be the only screw holding your forearm on to the rifle. Once I removed that screw, I was able to tap the forend off of the rifle with the wood block and hammer. As the one poster above said, you first have to remove the gas tube in order to remove the forearm.
  5. I just recently bought my first Saiga rifle, a .223. Not only was the gas tube nearly impossible to get off at first, I also ran into the same problem you're having with the forearm. Here's what worked for me: I removed the forearm screw and tried everything I could to wiggle the forearm loose without any luck. Finally, I got a thin block of wood from the garage and placed the rifle with the muzzle of the barrel on the floor (carpeted and on top of a towel to protect the muzzle), then placed the wood at the end of the forearm nearest the receiver (pick a side). A few gentle taps of a hammer on the end of the wood had the forearm moving foreward. The next problem I ran into with the forearm was that the pin under the barrel about two inches behind the muzzle (how's that for firearm nomenclature) was offset to one side. Once the forearm was moving forward a couple of inches this pin was digging into the stock causing it to bind nearer the barrel. When I got the forend off and noticed this condition, I tapped the pin so that both ends stick out evenly. This helped the next time I removed the forearm. I still have to use the wood block and hammer to get the forearm off of the rifle, but that's OK and easy to do. So longs as the rifle is solid when the forearm is on, I don't mind this a bit. I hope this helps you out!
  6. Yes, I'm looking at keeping the Saiga Unconverted right now. Thanks!
  7. I've decided to keep my .223 rifle's FCG in the stock position for now. I want to add a collapsing (6 postition) stock like the military M4 to my rifle. Does anybody besides Tapco make a stock for the non-converted Saiga .223? Of those members who have the Tapco collapsing stock, are you happy with it or not? Thanks!
  8. I recently bought my first Saiga (.223 rifle) and have started to modify it. Since I don't like the idea of going to jail, I'd like some help in staying 922r compliant. I saw several Saigas with their original forearms modified with holes drilled, so I just did that to mine. For now, I'd like to do put my .223 into the following configuration: Original forearm Tapco collapsing stock Surefire 30rd. magazines The Tapco stock and forearm are listed as 2 compliance parts. The Surefires are listed as 3 compliance parts. Since my rifle originally did not come with a pistol grip, does the Tapco stock really count as 2 parts for compliance? I guess what I'm asking boils down to this: With just the two additions (Tapco collapsable stock with pistol grip and Surefire mag), is my rifle 922r compliant, or do I need one or more US made parts to be legal? Thanks!
  9. You're probably right. I'm getting one anyway!
  10. I'm definatley going to add a DPH muzzle brake to my gun. Does anyone know if the DPH muzzle brake counts as a US part for 922r compliance?
  11. For anyone who encounters an EXTREMELY tight fighting gas tube in the future: The issue on my new Saiga .223 was NOT that I could not rotate the little lever on the side of the receiver that unlocks the gas tube. The lever was tight, but it was easy enough to rotate using the slot in the cleaning pod. Even when this lever was unlocked the gas tube was a very tight fit and was impossible to move without tools (pliers over a towel). I was finally able to remove the gas tube, but when I put it back on it was extremely hard to remove again. I was really demoralized, as others here said how easy it should be to remove the gas tube, and it looked very easy on the several videos I looked-up to help me figure out what the problem might be. Today, I removed the gas tube and the forearm from the rifle in order to drill 3/8" holes along the forearm like I learned from others on this forum. I figured that I would put the gas tube back on the rifle while the forearm was off so I could more easily see what was causing the exrtemely tight fit. I tried to remove the gas tube and it lifted right out! It had been the forearm that was causing me all the headaches (and finger aches) when I tried to remove the gas tube. I used a dremel tool to lightly relieve some of the raised areas along the inside of the forearm, and now the gas tube is MUCH easier to remove. I have learned a ton of information from this forum, and continue to do so. There are so many cool guns that people have modified! I am glad to have finally figured out a solution to my problem, and I hope it helps some other Newbie down the road. I feels good to finally "give back" to this forum in some small way, as you all have been so informative and helpful!
  12. Thanks, gang. That DPH flash hider/brake is definately going on my rifle, as is the Surefire forearm. I think I'm going to leave the trigger where it is for now and go with the Ace no-modification folding stock. Then maybe an Ultimak gas tube rail. This bug bites bad!
  13. CarolinaSS: That's a sweet looking rifle. I think I'll go with the Surefire forearm. What flash hider and/or muzzle brake is on that gun? (NEVER MIND. It's a DPH, just found it on your site). Any preference between the DPH tri-rail and the Surefire forearm? dftc: I had to laugh when you said "if you can use a screw driver" you can install the Surefire. That's about the extent of my mechanical ability, but I'm learning slowly! I look foreward to learning more quickly as I "mod" my Saiga.
  14. Has anybody tried the Strikeforce (ATI?) forearm on a Saiga .223. Does this forearm fit the Saiga rifles, or are they somehow different than a standard AK in the forearm/gas tube area? I'm not interested in the Strikeforce stock, just the forearm. I'm leaning toward an Ace folding stock for the rear. If the Strikeforce will not fit without alterations, has anybody tried the Surefire forearm on a .223? Are there any pros or cons with either forearm that a newbie might overlook? One last question (sorry), now that I got my tightly fitted gas tube off, is there any trick to removing the forearm once the screw is out? I can't get the thing to budge without tools and I don't want to mess my new gun up. The rear stock came off nice and easy, but the forearm is a bugger. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...