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amityn

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About amityn

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  • Location
    Long Island, NY
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    USPSA LIFE MEMBER, CRO
  1. trigger guard, grip and release sold... Mags and magwell still available...
  2. Sorry, been out of touch and forgot about this add...All parts listed are still available, open to offers... Thank you, Matt
  3. I have 1 JT magwell for AGP mags with 5 magazines (3 AGP and 1 Promag 10 rounders and 1, 5 rounder- not oem, mags are fitted for the magwell and are notched on the back lip for a LRBHO I installed) Magwell is drilled and tapped for Arrendondo shell stop.. $220.OBO Shipped to CONUS only. I also have a saigatech trigger guard with AK grip and an extended mag release lever. $40 OBO Shipped to CONUS only. These parts are take offs from my Saiga 12. PM me with any questions or offers... Can send better pictures on request
  4. I have a used Tromix stock (not Limbsaver version) that is a take off from my Saiga 12. I had installed 2 nut serts to attach a cheek rest I made but do not have the cheek rest to sell (Can't find it). I am asking $70 shipped to CONUS only. Payment to be made by US Postal money order. PM me with any questions or offers.
  5. Yes. Works so far, but I still need to live fire. I have one of the original JT agp magwells on mine and my LRBHO does not like it at all..I think it has to do with the way my mags are modified to use in the magwell and it has me scratching my head. It looks like my mag is at a different angle then using a un modified mag with no magwell. Keeps nose diving the round. Take the magwell off, use a regular mag, no problems..go figure..... Matt
  6. If your right handed, use your trigger fingure to apply upward pressure on the BHO bolt, under the weight of the gun, as you install another mag. Once the mag is inserted, you can disengage the BHO with your trigger fingure. Just like a AR-15 Magpul BAD device. If your left handed, do the same with your left thumb. If you can't grip the BHO bolt due to the positioning in the reciever, just use a longer bolt. I use a JT MAGWELL and this TTP works perfectly. Will do.. thanks for the info..
  7. Well I did my live fire test and I was pleasantly surprised that it worked for the most part. The main problem I have is inserting a mag with my mag-well attached. Since I have to modify the mag to work with the mag-well sometimes I don't get the mag seated in properly before the bolt closes which caused the jam. Maybe need a little more tweaking....Worked great when I used it without the mag-well (rocking and locking unmodified mag)..still, I only put 50 rounds through but my results were promising.. Note- I choose to put the release through the side. if you do this you have to grind down
  8. Well, I'm ready for a field test myself. After a week and a 1/2 of grinding, fitting, grinding, fitting, assembling, dis-assembling, some more grinding, fitting, yada yada yada... my hawks beak looks like a parakeet's beak. Seems to cycle with dummy rounds so we'll see what tomorrow brings. This install has brought me to the edge, given me fits and almost drove me to drink again..so if it don't work tomorrow I think I'll put my name on the wait list and pay to have the master install my one free replacement....wish me luck..... Matt
  9. For sale, one Ultimak Rail for Saiga-12 w/ fixed sights (M11-L) Dark Earth in color.... price is 70.00 shipped in the US.... payment by US Postal Money Order...thanks for looking...... *Notice: The newer Saigas (2008 production and later) have been coming with non removable front sights in a different location on the gas block. These front sights must be ground flush with the gas block. Then a hole must be drilled (#29 drill) into the gas block and tapped to the 4 x 0.7 mm thread for the M11-L mount's front screw. This should only be attempted by those familiar with such procedures.
  10. Well, I finally got around to making a cheek rest or I should say modifying a $7 sks cheek rest to fit my needs. After receiving the sks cheek rest I cut off one side bracket leaving only one still attached to the rest since the stock was to thick for it to go over. I trimed it down, clamped it to the stock and drilled 2 pilot holes. Made the holes bigger in the stock to fit 2 rivet nuts and then screwed the cheek rest on. It aint pretty but it works well. Brought my eye right up in line with the c-more I installed. Matt Also, for westonsecurity, I used alumi-hyde darke earth from brow
  11. The one on my saiga was pressed in, 08 production. It could be either or depending on when yours was manufactured. Matt
  12. I've had no luck with the Burris fastfire. Hard to sight in, blinking on and off were some of the problems I had. I put one I had laying around in my spairs on my conversion and took it off the next day. IMO spend the extra money. I myself went with a c-more railway. As far as the rail, I went with the ultimak. Had to do some mods to make it fit but its rock solid. Matt
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