Jpnorris87

Here is some advice from somebody that deals with rivets every single day (I do sheet metal work on helicopters). There are two sides to every rivet: Manufactured head: This is the round head that comes from the factory. The one that you put the rivet gun and headset on. It should be nice and round. Shop head: This is the side of the rivet that gets "bucked" with a bucking bar. This side of the rivet should have a flat head and looks like it has been smashed down. It will be tempting to drill out the shop head of the rivets. DONT DO IT!!! Standard practice is to drill the man

Best coyote/any other varmit that I want to take out gun I have ever bought. Used it up in Alaska for wolf, coyote, and one red fox. I love it. Plus and -50 I dont have to worry about my bolt freezing and not being able to pull the action back. 65 grain soft points will do a number on just about anything.

If I want to shoot past 300yds I will use my 270 win. 300yds and in, 223 works just fine for me. Its a good front seat of the pickup driving around gun. I am just looking for some different options. As far as my combat experience goes, I spend all day, everyday out on the flight line fixing helicopters. Im not an infantry guy. I keep these acft patched up, so our boys can go out there and do bad things to bad people. I guess I am just looking for something new and different.

I have been looking for a way to improve the iron sights on my 16in 223. I have a removable side mount scope mount for it when I want to reach out and touch something but I love using irons. And Im not a big fan of the short radius sights my rifle came with. I mainly use my rifle for plinking, shooting targets, varmit hunting, basically its my truck gun. I have looked at Krebs, Tech Sights, Mojo, and others. I was even thinking about getting a dog leg rail to go over the dust cover and mount some irons on it......but what about something like this? http://www.marblearms.com/improvedPe

Why not just put a rivet in the hole??? If you dont like the look of the rivet, countersink it and then put it in there. Not that hard, takes 2min. And alot more professional that slapping JB weld on your rifle b/c you are afraid to actually work on it. Same with the bullet guide. Really how hard is it to drill a hole and tap it? If you are having problems with this, maybe you should let someone that knows what they are doing work on your rifle.

I will bet you that its not your dust cover denting your brass. I gotta a Saiga .223 which is notoriously one of the worst rifles for denting the brass. Its your charging handle hitting the brass as the bolt slams fwd. The best way to lessen the dent is to pick up a used casing and put it on your charging handle. Ive found that my .357mag casings work great.

Never had any problems with MAA (Mississippi Auto Arms)....have had some issues with MSA (Magnolia State Armory) but they made it right.

I would pin it, but what's the point? If i cant use the stock the way its supposed to be able to be used, then I might as well get one that serves another purpose. I would like to find a higher comb stock, or one with an adjustable cheek piece, b/c the rifle gets shot with a scope on it most of the time. So if anybody knows of any nice stocks like this let me know....

Well, now that Im stuck in the communist state of NY, I gotta get rid of my collapsible stock. Looking for some ideas for a fixed stock. I would like a higher comb than the original AK style stock (gonna have a scope on it). Any ideas? I would like to stick with black synthetic, but Im open to ideas......

Ok...I just want to put out there, Im not trying to bash anybody, nor am I trying to persuade anybody to buy one product or another. I recieved a PM from MSA minutes after my post. I do not know Nate in any way, but I do know how sh!t happens. Thats life.....and if anything I will recommend him to any person looking to do business. Even after this long of time he is going to take care of his customers. And sir, if I was there I would shake your hand.

Ok, I really dont mean to be rude but, Im about tired of not getting heard on this subject. I ordered an adapter from MSA during their 4th of July sale....while I was in Mosul, Iraq 03 July 2009. I am now 2 months from going to Afgan. I understand that sh!t happens. I know that Nate has been thru a rough time. But I spent $300 on parts with some really hard earned money and would really appreciate a simple email. Or at least word on what is going on. Sgt Norris, Joshua D co. 3-10 GSAB Ft Drum, NY

PM sent

I work on acft all day. And we could be drilling anything from aluminum to steel to titanium. The only drill bits that are worth a dang are Cobalt drill bits. As stupid as it sounds, aluminum will actually dull a drill bit faster than steel. The thing to remember when drilling steel is not to heat up the bit. If you "smoke" the bit, it loses its temper and is worthless. You can sharpen it all you want and you are just wasting your time.

Ok....a common misconception about tapping a hole is that you throw some oil on it and just screw it in the hole. THIS DOES NOT WORK WITH STEEL! Yes you can get by with this on aluminum and softer metals but it will not work on hardened steel. Drill the right sized hole...and drill it straight. Lube up the tap and the hole. Start the tap in the hole. Pay careful attention to starting it straight. If you start the tap at an angle, you will snap it every time. Once the tap is started the key is HALF A TURN IN, FULL TURN OUT. Every full rotation or so, pull the tap completely out a

Thanks for the good news Cobra! I have been patiently waiting for my adapter since I was in Iraq. Too bad Im in the great communist state of NY and not allowed to have my baby here. Oh well, maybe Ill get my hands on another one when we head to Afghan.