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voonman

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Posts posted by voonman

  1. I never really made a video of myself shooting my vepr 12. I got bored today so i went to the range and did some recording. I chopped down my vepr 12 as short as it can go without cutting the gas block. I am able to cycle winchester AA Low Brass and Remington Nitro Low Brass and all buck shot and slugs reliably.

     

     

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-Ut6ulT9bA

     

     

     

     

    I have ordered a new UTAS XTR-12 .. I am in the process of filling my NFA paper work to cut it down to about 8inches or so. I will post videos when it is finished.

     

     

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    • Like 1
  2.  

    I had mine custom made a while back By Homelandsafes in califonia. i have a 5/8 steel door which is more than half an inch of steel and a 1/4" steel body..It works very well..

     

    attachicon.gifhomeland2.jpg

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    Might I ask what the price point is on something like that?

     

     

    With shipping to my doorstep around $2200.00 ..The good thing about this company is that you can custom build it..so if you want 1" of steel they can do it also .if you want stainless steel inbetween for torch protection, you can add that also.The safe is a unibody safe ..it is all one piece of steel bent to shape.Not welded on each corner.

  3. I've seen that video before. Why wouldn't you say what you paid for the safe?

    look at the comments below the video..i mention it there.. .The good thing about it is that the company is they will work with you on customizing and pricing your safe to fit your budget

  4. If you do go the TWS route and are looking to add a peep as well, take a look at the KEL-TEC SU16B-365 Rear Peep Sight (B model)

     

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    http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/73533-tws-rail-rear-sight-options/?hl=%2Breceived+%2Bthe+%2Bkel-tec+%2Bsu16b-365+%2Brear+%2Bsight+%2Btoday.+%2Btotal+%2Bprice+%2B%26%23036%3B24.99&do=findComment&comment=779444

     

    Three reasons to look at it:

     

    1.  It costs less

    2.  It is metal (not sure what the TWS peep is made of)

    3.  It has a screw on both the left and right side of the peep (for securing it to the rail) which will provide windage adjustments at the rear site (TWS peep only has one screw on the one side so all your windage adjustments will be done with the front sight post).

     

    http://www.keltecweapons.com/su-16-and-su-22-rifles/su-16-parts/su16b-365-rear-peep-sight-b-model/

     

    -bp

    i like that peep sight..i might use it on my mini draco

     

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  5. I was checking out your Krebs safety, I just got one but the gun is still in pieces so I haven't gotten to play with it yet. I R leftie and am looking forward to trying it out.

    Nevermind that's a VEPR. I'm dumb.

    And yeah I'm a fan of TiN NiB and melonite. Can I ask where you had it done, and if they offer the other two?

    The safety looks like a krebs but its not..thats how the standard vepr 12s come.. Here is the link for the TiN http://titaniumgun.com/

  6. Oh. I didn't realize this was on a shortened gun. Count me out of being able to give informed info about what should work. I must have missed that. Sorry. 

     

    The ammo pictured above is still some of the best feeding best reloading stuff though.

    Thanx..and yes the vepr12 is a 10.9" SBS ..It works flawless with all high brass loads. and all slugs and buckshot when the gun is cleaned or dirty. My only concern was using light low brass remington or winchester AAs i found it starts to cycle them after 5-7 failure to ejects..That is why i decided to use a little bit of lithium grease on the piston puck that allows the gun to cycle 100% from start to finish..The weird part of this is that when i owned my Saiga 12 IZ109 19" barrel..i had this same problem after cleaning my gun very well..the first few federal birdshot light loads would cause failure to eject due to an over clean gas port..

     

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  7. Voon,

    About how many rounds have you fired with the grease in there and what loads were used? Are you raising hell doing mag dumps or just taking it easy? I can tell you from experience that some of the Federal loads will indeed not jive well with lube in the gas block. It leaves a sludge-like fouling.

    my gun does not fire the walmart federal or winchester 100round  bird shot bulk packs there isnt enough power behind those to give my gun a full cycle..So far after my test i did a few mag dumps and a total of 100rounds with the grease inside the gas block with no failure to feed or eject... it fires winchester AA and remington game loads and Remington nitro sporting clays and every single buckshot or slug you can think of ..After the test i could see a little bit of the grease oozing out from gas block where the gas tube joins..After disassembling the gun i noticed no greasy fouling or sludge..I think it is because the ammunition i am using is not that dirty also as i am firing the grease is escaping from the gun itself..I will have to make a video and post it here so everyone can get an idea of what is happening..

     

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  8.  

     

    Dry molly is a DRY high temperature coating that comes in a spray can. 

    NEVER use any oil or grease type lube on a gas piston!

    You can try using a #2 pencil and 'coloring' the piston, this will also work without gumming up the works.

    ill try the pencil to see if that works also..but the dry molly lube did not work... but after using a little grease i did not see any extensive wear or tear inside the gas port..i cycled about 100rounds ..What would be the issue if the grease is consistently used over time?

     

    Grease is 'the timed release of oil'. Grease WILL get gummed up QUICKLY with gunpowder residue, and the heat will carbonize it into a nasty adhesive! It WILL FAIL! 

     

    But it worked and it allowed me to cycle100 rounds of birdshot.. After i peeped inside the gas port there was no nasty adhesive stuff

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