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555JM

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Everything posted by 555JM

  1. If the trigger's that important to you, go for it. I can adapt. All I ask is a consistent, not gritty pull of less than 6 lbs. If it has that, I can get used to it. Not only DOES the Saiga have that, all four of my Saigas are virtually identical in the trigger dept. That's right; the triggers are consistent shot-to-shot AND gun-to-gun. I think that's kinda cool and it's definitely a plus when you're not sure which gun will be closest when the SHTF. But there's no issue here. Some folks feel they need a Mercedes or a BMW; I'm happy with a Focus. Some folks fly a Beechcraft; I'm h
  2. I see no need to convert either, liberty. Stock Saiga ergos suit me just fine. It is rumored, however, that bullets from an unconverted Saiga will bounce off zombies. Would hate to find that out at a bad time
  3. Noooo... If the Remmy is any kind of shooter, keep it. You'll kick yourself someday if you let it go. Everyone needs a good bolt action .308 and that looks like a nice one. Save your $$, bide your time and ADD the .308 Saiga to your collection. You need at least two guns in each caliber/cartridge type you shoot. If you had only one and something happened to it, how would you shoot your ammo?
  4. A three legged stool is never tippy. Regardless of the surface it's on (within reason), all three legs will be in contact with the surface and the stool will be stable. Not true with a 4-legged stool; it needs an even, level surface or it'll always try to rock a little. Also not true for a 2-legged stool, which will be unstable or, if the legs are very wide, may act like a 4-legged stool. But the 3-legged stool will be stable and solid regardless. My theory is that the 3rd lug was added to stabilize the bolt face in a mass-produced design which relies upon ample clearances for re
  5. Another NYer here. I've picked up a few Saigas, both 7.62x39 and .223, and have kept them stock. I like them the way they are; even with the stiff trigger...(I will say from gun to gun that stiff trigger is pretty consistent. You get used to one, you're pretty much good with them all). If you're not going to convert the gun, go with the wood. It'll look and feel better and make give the rifle a more sporter-like appearance. If you're planning to convert, save some money and go with the plastic stock. No sense in spending extra for the wood and then pulling it off to put on a stock t
  6. K-var's the only place I know of that's got 'em, but they won't ship to NY. Out of stock at MAA. Anyplace else got them?
  7. Gunbroker. Got one yesterday, 20" barrel to go with my two 16 inchers. $415 shipped. There's another one posted.
  8. Another reason not to convert your Saiga if you live in NY. You'd think Grier had all those Aks stacked up in his bedroom from the photo. Damn CBS and NY too.
  9. 555JM

    Ed's red

    I asked about Ed's Red on another forum. I thought the acetone might dissolve or soften plastic parts. Ed hisself responded and said the acetone could be left out of the formulation and it would work about as well. I mixed some up both ways and find that it does a good job. There isn't much/any plastic inside a Saiga, so the acetone could be used if kept off the stock and exterior plastic. Any residual acetone in the action would probably evaporate before a mag was inserted...so plastic magazines probably wouldn't be an issue. From what I've seen, it does a good job. I alternate
  10. +1 to that. Nothing like a spare parts kit that you can shoot. Two is one...one is none. Agree on the headspace issue as well. If you did replace the bolt, you'd need some way of checking and adjusting headspace. Just dropping a new bolt in might work, or it might not. If it didn't, the gun would be either unreliable or dangerous. Bob
  11. I've got a 2.5x Redfield on the much-maligned UTG mount that attaches to the side rail. The scope is probably 30 years old and was repaired after failing on a muzzleloader. It was lying around unused so I tried it on the Saiga and am quite happy with it. The UTG mount lets me field strip the gun without removing the scope. This particular scope model has a 1" tube with no bell at the objective end. The ocular is an oblong affair that has a wider-than-tall eyelens...sort of a mini TV screen effect. It has a very wide field, is quite clear and seems in-focus from the end of the barrel
  12. If you're planning to hunt with it, get the 20" barrel. Functional accuracy will be the luck of the draw, but you'll have at least another 150 fps on tap at the muzzle. This will help with practical accuracy at range because the gun will be flatter shooting. Also, the gun should be slightly quieter and generate less muzzle flash. All a function of burning more of the powder in the barrel. Bob
  13. Chile's pretty much right. I've got both a .223 Saiga and a Mini 14. The Saiga's unconverted and I don't mind the trigger but, if you're going to put glass on the gun, go with the Mini 14. It's built to take a scope and will add up to a sweeter handling package. Bob
  14. Nickel plating isn't so rugged. I've got a nickel plated Python with rust outlining one cylinder flute. It was caused by a blueprint being thrown carelessly into the gunsafe on top of the Python. As I recall, it was only there a few months through the summer. I about cry every time I look at it. Bob
  15. x39 and .223 for me. They're my SHTF guns. Don't anticipate getting more calibers ...though maybe more copies of the aforementioned. Problem being stockpiling ammo in each caliber. I've have bolt guns in .308 and .30-06 and a few hundred rounds each to support them. I feel that's adequate for a rifle of that nature. A Saiga, IMHO, needs a stockpile of a few thousand. They should be shot frequently and will go through the ammo. Plus there should be ammo stashed somewhere for when things come apart. As far as the shotguns go, I'm not convinced an S12 or an S20 would be a signifi
  16. That's a great looking little scope, jr. Looks like it belongs on your gun...which it does. I've gotten away from the big scopes and have learned to appreciate a compact 4X scope with a 1" objective. Too bad there aren't many available. I notice you have it mounted forward with the turret almost against the front ring. Is the eye-relief a little long for the gun or about right? I'd expect a muzzleloader scope to have a long eye relief. Bob
  17. Older blued Kahr K9 using FIST 1AK Kydex IWB holster.
  18. Fun, ain't they? You might want to sight it in and get some range time with it. If you ever really need it, it would be good to know where it sends things. You'll need an AK47 sight tool to adjust the front post...from TAPCO or others...about $9. Bob
  19. I've got the Surefire Tri-Rail on one of my Saigas. Like it fine. Gonna get more. Working toward 922r compliance. Someone on here trimmed his Surefire Tri-Rail to mate with the UltiMak gas tube rail. Looked good and didn't cost him a fortune. Seemed like a great combination. Bob
  20. Good Luck, Bob. Got 1000 rounds of Golden Tiger 7.62x39 for $230 at the Syracuse show today. Also some Tula .223 and brass cased 9mm. Better prices than I expected. Ammo seemed to be in good supply at the show. Didn't see any primers, though. Saigas (7.62x39 and .223) were going as low as $330. Another Bob
  21. Christcorp and Rockhound: I'm with you guys and am happy to hear it said. The Saiga is good as is. The conversion doesn't look particularly difficult, but there's a bit of Karma that has a way of biting me in the tail. It pays me a visit when when I do things that don't need to be done. Soooo I learned not to fix what ain't broken. May not apply to everyone. SirROFL: You're right, but I've liked all the Mini-14s I've shot. Bob
  22. A dumb question, perhaps. Wondering where the shooter of a converted rifle achieves cheek weld when shooting with iron sights. My Saigas are all still un-converted and I get good cheek weld at the comb of the stock like I would on a normal hunting rifle. I've never shot an AK or converted Saiga, so don't know where the cheek would fall. Do you still rest the cheekbone on the comb of the stock? If so, where is the dustcover with respect to your nose? My attempts to mimic this put the dustcover just ahead of my nose and to one side. Seemed a little odd. Bob
  23. Put the Mojo short aperture sight on my long barreled (20") 7.62x39 about a week ago and finally got some range time with it. Very nice sight. Looking through the aperture seems to sharpen the target and front sight focus for these aging eyes. Accuracy was very good IF I remembered to keep both eyes open. When I closed the left eye, accuracy got erratic. I agree, apertures, if the opening isn't too small, are faster than blade sights for me. I bought the screw-in aperture set, but think the aperture the sight comes with it about perfect for my unconverted Saiga. Any tighter would sl
  24. I can see where this is going Moss-Man. You'll JB Weld the thing in. It'll be good and stay that way for years. Then, one day you'll get to thinking, you've been lucky so far and really should do it right....so you'll drill and tap the hole and use the screw. Then, one day when you least expect/want it, the gun will stop because the screw backed out. Oops! Forgot the Loctite. Bob
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