gunfun
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Posts posted by gunfun
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On 12/9/2020 at 3:55 PM, tatonic said:
I'll admit that I have never seen a report of a 7.62 squib.
I interrupted some novice shooters that had a squib. IIRC the ammo was new production tula, but it's been a few years. Circa 2014. I keep a 1/4" brass rod in my trunk, for that sort of thing, so I had them back in action. None of them had heard about squibs at all, and IIRC, they had chambered another round before they responded to me yelling at them.
Fortunately they listened, and were okay. Again, if I recall correctly, they had another one in that same session and caught it themselves. So for sure 1 squib, probably two if my rusty memory is right.
I've seen squibs in nearly every caliber that is common, or other malfs of factory ammo that came to equivalent danger.
I've also made ammo that was squib. It is pretty common when developing new loads, and you have to go slow and verify impacts if your load is on the low end of power, etc. My least favorite is loads that run well, but behave like squibs in very cold weather. The more you shoot, the more sketchy stuff you will encounter.
Rushed manufacture, substituting from optimal components, and bad storage are the usual culprits.
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That is a valid correction.
I think it's good that you aren't in contract with black aces. They have done enough scammy stuff, you would get burned somehow by association.
With all of the adkal clones out there, what stops you from jumping on that market? Are the selling points too low?
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Yep. Still a sketchy company.
BTW, stop thinking about brass height. It's misleading. Look at the muzzle energy of the shells. That's what you actually want to know. Mass x velocity.
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PM me an offer. You will pay shipping whatever that costs, if I sell.
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What state are you in? If in central WA, I would help you do it. I'm not a licensed smith, but we could get it done.
Otherwise, Anthony Hitch or Mike Rogers come to mind for people I would trust to do it properly, and Tromix.
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I wrote a guide on it on this forum, and also have it posted on the vepr forum. Image links should be good in both places. Google the forum name, "trigger job and gunfun" and the thread should come up. It will be a few years old, so you might use advanced search to force older posts.
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Al from NOE will do stuff like that too.
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You don't need lee's you need these:https://thereloadersnetwork.com/product/svarog-shotgun-italian-slug-mold-with-optional-base-pin/
which give you full bore, plus a reasonably priced Breneke style tail wad. https://thereloadersnetwork.com/product/svarog-shotgun-slug-wads/ It's what we home brewers have wanted all along.
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To continue, some mount to the nut with small screws. Others basically screw onto threads on the outside of the barrel nut, then use a small set screw to keep their orientation.
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In general, they mount to proprietary barrel nuts that come with them. There are a few standardized patterns of barrel nut mounting system, and wrenches that fit them. So for example, many of the free float forends out there use the YHM style.
There are exceptions that mount to the upper receiver, which come with a special upper, or are even integral with the upper.
IMO get M loc not keymod. Watch a video of installing a forend, and it will make sense.
Also, the quality to price ratio has gone super super low. That means that you could get a $60 UTG pro forend that is IMO a lot nicer than a Knights Armament quad from 2013 or so which cost $450.
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On 8/21/2019 at 10:21 AM, mitchbloom said:
Thanks!
This is the kind of info I was looking for. Now to find some mags. Not sure what to do with this, other than a range toy.
You should not take away that 922r does not apply to you. It does. The statutory language is based on assembly, and the definitions for that statute consider inserting a magazine assembly. The fact that you are not the importer, or original manufacturer, or gun store doesn't get you off the hook. The law is stupid, but that is what the law is. (I am a lawyer, and I did the actual work to parse out the statutory application. I've also read court rulings which would bear on the matter. This is one of those few places where dropping credentials is legitimate.)
p.s. CSSPecs makes excellent magazines, and is a very upright business. I wholeheartedly endorse their products. I also like the SGM mags.They've both got positives. The rock and lock gun has a Csspecs mag in it all the time, because it is completely trustworthy. The other one would have a CSSPecs mag if I had one that fit its magwell. Get a 3 pack of the steel 10 rounders, and you will be happy.
If you feed this gun with quality ammo, such as #4 or #1 buckshot at 1325 FPS or faster, you have a superb home defense gun with near unbeatable fire power, and optimal ballistics.
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Here is the thread which explains in the simplest terms how 922r works for the end user.
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Ah crap. They deleted my signature links. Now I have to find the threads.
Here is the hammer and trigger group profile thread
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Keep the legal concept of conversion for 922r purposes separate in your mind from where the pistol grip is mounted. People tend to call both things conversions and that gives confusion.
Yours could be converted depending on what trigger group, puck and magazines you use It starts with 15 parts and you need to eliminate 5 of them to use any mag. So 3 are the trigger group, 1 can be the puck, another the pistol grip and you are golden. even with the goofy stock.
It is worth doing it right, though, and moving the pistol grip to the correct place. It will make the balance point way better, and put all the controls where they ought to be in relation to your hand. It turns a pretty good gun into a well thought out gun.
Moe's thread was good when it came out, but there are easier ways to do the things, with cleaner results now, due to more experimentation and parts support. If you do a proper restoration to a conventional layout, the big deal is to profile the hammer correctly so that you aren't adding drag to the operating system. It isn't hard if you are handy, and most of the "drop in" trigger groups have kinda crappy fit and geometry, because they are one "size kinda fits all" rather than "tailored to your gun."
Follow the link in my signature line to save yourself some trouble.
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1) 8", threaded for rem chokes. Keep the design of the gun simple. Don't add 10lbs of junk to it. Have a stock that is inline with a decently large footprint. Reliable is mostly a function of whether they moved the gas system properly. If they do it right, it will run any ammo above a certain energy threshold, which will be toward the hotter end of cheap trap loads and up.
2) Tromix, evlutions llc, lone star arms...
3) Get a trust, no exceptions. Just get a trust and get started. It isn't hard or scary. I do these as a pro, and you are a fool to do it without a trust. Sooner you start, the sooner you finish. Don't do a DIY trust or some random form your gunshop has on the counter. You aren't a lawyer, and neither is Jimbob at the shop. Some of the online ones are OKAY, but there are good reasons to have one made to order by someone who knows your situation, the law in your state, and does them all the time.
If you get the gun before your stamp clears, some dealers with ranges will let you play with it at their range while you are waiting for the crown's permission to take it home.
After you do your first stamp, you will realize that it was a nuisance to pay and weight, but it isn't as big a deal as most people think.
4) I would keep it and get an SBS. As for whether to commission or purchase- that's a question of cost and what's available at the time, and how specific you want your setup to be. Can't hurt to ask for quotes, and wait times.
I see tromix builds show up surprisingly frequently from people with more money than attention span. They buy an expensive custom, shoot it a couple times, chuck it in the closet for a year or two, then get the itch for something new and hawk it for 1/3 of what it cost to get built.
I would kind of expect that any builds with the red jacket label on them go for a discount now. Quality varied. Pretty good before show, not as consistent after.
As with the answer on #3, sooner you start the sooner you finish. Custom orders often take a while, but that can be about even with the tax stamp wait time, so not as big a deal as you might think.
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And the right grade of steel, and the ability to precisely heat treat. ARs are easy to make because all the pressure bearing components are non serialized in USA. Those are the hard bits to make safely at home. Europe doesn't care about receivers for that reason, they care about barrels, bolts, trunions, etc. Hence serials on those parts in EU guns. Import AKs tend to have serials on both parts as a compromise to the US system. The S12 and derrivatives got approved using the system from Europe, without any thought towards making them easy to clone or remake. There's no money in that for the manufacturer, and no surplus market, since it was never a mass issued gun to turn into parts kits.
Further, all the pockets in an 80% Ar receiver are vertical plunge operations. Everything tricky has already been done. An AK trunion has a lot of complex geometry that isn't just going to happen with a drill press. It would be pretty hard to measure without custom jigs, let alone make. Part of why ARs are clever, is that he borrowed johnson's clever thinking about how to make easier to machine precise lugs, then made it in two pieces, so that it is a single broaching operation which can be cleaned up on a lathe, then joined to the barrel, then heat treated as a unit.
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* enriched soil. I'll take all of your lead.
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Yeah. That's great. I wish I was there with you. Have an awesome hunt.
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Thanks. I still want some kind of auto counter or dispenser that does it with a pull of a lever, like a powder measure drum.
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On 10/9/2019 at 5:21 AM, Doug Hartley said:
Use the calculator below and it will tell you what you want to know.
Doug
I usually go with this one, but I have used the berger calculator to double check too. https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi
On 10/11/2019 at 3:44 PM, patriot said:You're right. 168s are great on deer though, so that's why I went with 1-12 on my bolt gun. Still, 175s are damned good in it. It's hard to beat factory 308 168gr Sierra Matchkings. Most accurate stuff I've ever shot.
A lot of 1-10 precision guns use the FGMM 168 match king as their recommended load for factory bench marks. i.e. the LWRC REPR that I was playing with a few years ago. Arguably 168s are "over stabilized" in 1-10, but they seem to shoot well out of pretty much every 308, which is why they are so popular as a standard. I don't pretend to expertise, but I think of 165-170 in 308 /30-06 as the overlap load which is likely to give good results in a gun chosen at random, since they are right in the middle of the overlap between what the common twist rates are good at. I don't pretend to be a good precision shooter, though I am working to improve. My take on this topic is that for 308, if you are wanting the ability to shoot cheap ball, and also do some precision shooting, potentially using some of the ELD bullets, 1-10 will work well with the long range precision loads (& heavier hunting bullets), and well enough with the cheap stuff too.
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On 10/6/2019 at 8:03 AM, patriot said:
You'll want a 1:12 twist so you can run 168-175 Matchkings
Wouldn't a 1-10 be better for that range? I thought 1-12 was more suited for 150-168grn
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Put a chunk of plastic pic rail on top of a baseball cap bill. Maybe a counterweight at the back.
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Self Defense HP vs SP & 55gr vs 62gr
in Saiga .223
Posted
Honestly most 55 grain soft points are going to be pretty good. Some of the 77 OTM stuff has good performance in 556. If the same bullets are available in similar velocities in 5.45x39 they would do well.
556 is an effective caliber, and 545 is more or less the same thing. Most of the 62 grain ish stuff are not great performers.
I know I would be comfortable loading a hornady 55 grain soft point in 545, and expecting adequate performance.