Thumb Clip Pull Pin

I have been coming by a lot lately. I wanted to check out what's new! I'm thinking about changing the ACE butt stock and adaptor on my Saiga and making an adaptor for one of the DS Arms "X" butt stocks like Tromix did. I'll be glad to take some photos of the progress if anyone is interested. Yours, Bob Troxell.

it is expensive, but it is not junk! I met the inventor of this tube at the 2007 S.H.O.T. show. It is very well made! It is a very inventive product. It delivers a 12 guage round right into your hand with very little movement on your part. Especially when compaired to trying to get rounds out of a Speed Feed butt stock, or a side saddle. These are just my opinions. Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin. Off subject, but did you happen to see if Halo was there with their P-12? I'm sorry Mike. I didn't see Halo. They could have been there and I just over looked them. Yours, Bob

Okay! Those are the ones! Wow! It's been two years! Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.

I have not been here in a while. I was just wondering what happened to the conversion tutorial that I posted a while ago. Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.

You may have to stick with 12ga 2/34" 1 1/8 ounce loads that shoot at 1200 fps or greater for a while. The bolt in my Saiga was sluggish at first to go into battery. I found that Federal #6 2 3/4" Small game loads worked very well. I tried some very old hand loaded shells in my Saiga. I found out that that the powder did not burn very clean. (There were a lot of unburned powder grains in the gas trap.) I think that cleaner burning powder is a must. I found that some of my handloaded shells did not feed into the chamber very well. I found that the crimp on these handloaded rounds

it is expensive, but it is not junk! I met the inventor of this tube at the 2007 S.H.O.T. show. It is very well made! It is a very inventive product. It delivers a 12 guage round right into your hand with very little movement on your part. Especially when compaired to trying to get rounds out of a Speed Feed butt stock, or a side saddle. These are just my opinions. Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.

Sorry that I have not posted a "finished" picture yet! I have been sort of busy, and the Saiga has moved to the rear of the stack! Yes! That is my old "J" head Bridgeport verticle mill. It has lots of back lash in it! I am learning to deal with that! I know that it seemed like a lot of trouble. I just wanted to use the equipment that I have, and to do the best job that I possibly could. Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.

I went back out to the shop. I flipped my practice piece over and started again! First I measured the hole spacing again. I decided to make the holes 1.395" apart. I mounted the practice piece in the mill vice. I found two of the edges with an edge finder and zero the table feed dials. Next, I moved the mill table to each of the hole locations, drill and tapped the two holes. This is a three part operation! Drill the hole. Change tools and tap the hole with a start tap. Change tools and finish the hole with a bottom tap. Go slow, use lots of cutting oil and clear the chips. I use a

After a lot of head scratching, and measuring I got busy last night. The first order of business was to remove the compound milling vise from the mill table and mount a simple milling machine vise. Next, the fixed jaw of the vise must be "indicated" in . This insures that the jaws of the vise will run parallel with the "Y" axis of the mill. I was not 100 percent sure of my measurements, and my mill has some back lash in the table feeds. I decided to experiment on a scrap piece of aluminium. It was a good thing too! I had the correct drill and a 10-24 tap, but I did not have "bottom"

I am under the impression that molds cost many thousands of dollars to make. This does not include the price of the equipment to actually inject the plastic. How about springs, and metal reinforcemets? How can this project be "doable" by an individual? Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.

Here are a couple of pictures of me making some pins for an AKM using an old Black and Decker 1/4" drill, bench vise, file, Sharpie marker, dial calipers and a Dremel tool. Don't use common non hardened nails for raw materials. Use anealed, oil hardening drill rod. Heat the new pin (while still attached) with a torch until it looses magnetic attraction. Quelch in motor oil. Polish pin with steel wool or fine sand paper. Part pin off of the stock. Dress the end of the pin. Press new pin into place. Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.

Silverback, can you post a picture of the broken bits. Perhaps we can come up with a fix for the broken parts. "See a need. Fill a need." Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.

"pushclipthumbpinscrewboltthreads" Wow! I love this! It is almost as bad as how some people pronounce my last name! Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin! (as in what you do before you throw a grenade)

Suicide Bopper! Thanks! I am glad that some of you are being well entertained! Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.

DYI, Sure! I'll loan you the rivet bucks! I don't usually loan tools, but I won't be using the bucks for a little while. PM your address to me. I'll send them to you. Just pay the postage to you and back to me. No rental on the tools! Make sure you send the tools back to me when you are finished with them. I am sorry but I have work lined up for the "Plinker style" rivet smasher! I can not loan that one out! Fair enough? Yours, Thumb Clip Pull Pin.