lframke

I ground down the front sight flat them made a fiber optic sight. I soldered it to the original front sight stub. Works good.

I coated the inside of mine with rubber cement. It still comes off but not as easily.

I used the spray foam to fill mine. I had enough room in my hollow stock to place two PVC plastic tubes inside before injecting the foam. In one tube I fitted for a mercury recoil reduction tube. It can be slide in or out with the removal of the butt cap. The other tube I use to house a SHTF emergency shell.I pad the butt end of the shell with foam rubber, between the shell and butt cap.

Your best route is to contact Jack Travers by phone. Jack is fantastic to deal with. He WILL solve your problem.

If the magazine is modified the way the directions and pictures describe there should be no problem. Of course if its done WRONG it won't work right. I have not read or heard of ANYBODY having a problem with the Mag Well when installed properly. It helps to grind the lower rings just inside the mag insert area of the receiver. This makes mag entry a bit easier. It would have nothing to do with ejecting the mag. If your Gunsmith removed too much material from the mag it can usually be fixed by re-building the area with epoxy or JB Weld.

I had the same problem after my conversion. I installed the Texas AK double hook trigger. I also installed a competition trigger spring. I had to push the trigger forward with my finger between shots to get the next round to fire. I changed the trigger spring back to stock and still had trigger reset issues. I watched as the trigger cycled and saw the trigger was not releasing from the disconnect. I filed and polished it and now the problem seems to be solved. After I get some rounds down range I may try the competition trigger spring again.

WRONG mind set! The use of the magwell makes the Saiga perform better. If not, why install it? You will not RUIN your magazine, you will improve it.

I wanted to try a double hook trigger. I bought the Texas AK trigger group. I did the mods to make it work, I'm pleased with the results. I have never used a Tapco TG but find the Texas AK to be a very high quality trigger group.

29 is the number.

289

If you mean the J/T Engineering Trigger spring, Yes I have the reduced power and the standard power springs. I have the standard power spring installed now. Fits great works just fine.

Call or write Greg at Carolina Shooters Supply or contact Jack Travers at J/T Engineering. Either person will steer you in the RIGHT direction.

I used 2 part Epoxy for plastic since the mags are plastic. I have had no issues after applying it. I never tried JB Weld on plastic so I don't know how well it adheres to Plastic.

Put my name in the hat but, I used 2 part Epoxy on my mags when they did not fit just right. Put it on where you think the slop is, then file it down a day later VERY slowly, testing the fit after every SMALL filing. Use a marker on top of the Epoxy to see where the high and low spots are as you try a fit the mag. When you get close( the mag locks in tight but won't drop free without a tug)stop filing and insert the mag about 10 times. That will usually be enough to wear it in perfectly. This worked on my 12 round Surefire black and clear mags. If you just gotta get rid of it, send i

If there is not a HUGE grease/oil stain on that beautiful upholstery you don't use enough on the gun! If you lubed it properly someone is SURE to kill you!

THe thanks go to Z34.

NW side. Family lives in Wadsworth. I shoot IDPA in Racine, If you ever want to tie up let me know.

When I fitted my JT Magwell I cut the front of the mags a tad too much. There was some travel up and down after the mag was inserted. I called Jack Travers and he explained in detail what was necessary for a perfect fit.I had used a Surefire 12 rnd. clear mag. Jack explained that the clear mag is a bit different in size than the black mags,he recommends the black mags. Instead of shims I used a 2 part epoxy for Poly type plastic. I built up the areas I ground down. After waiting (24hrs) I went and SLOWLY filed down each area until the fit was snug. I inserted and removed the mags about 15

I called Jack Travers about using my Saiga 5 round mag with the JT Surefire Magwell. He said that the Surefire mags work because of the camming action from the mag curvature. The stock 5 round Saiga mag does not have enough curvature to lock in with the front lip ground away. If the drum has a curve in the body where it enters the Magwell it might be able to be made to fit. I would call Jack and ask him.

I bought mine for Tactical type shooting competitions. If I can get it to run flawless I will start to use it.

I'm glad to read that you are very happy with the Rail, and the configuration of YOUR gun. Thanks for sharing your impressions of your equipment.It may make someone elses buying decision a little easier. If you are happy with what you have that's ALL that matters.

Jack told me that IF i needed to move the magwell, I should slot the holes in the magwell slightly. I might try epoxy on the mag to build up the area. I can always file that. Slotting the holes will be my LAST resort.

I'm having the same problem. I called Jack earlier this week and as Greg suggested Jack said to try the Mag Well a bit forward. My play is up and down. The mag will move up about 1/8" after the mag catch hits. I will try and "play" with this this weekend. I get nervous cycling live rounds in the house. I also get nervous grinding/filing on a $50+ clear 12 round mag. You have the JT extended mag release. I made a extended mag release and welded it to the stock mag release. Jack said his mag release catch is a bit larger than the stock one. Did you notice your JT mag release holding the ma

I had a similar shooting session this weekend with my Saiga 12. I just finished my conversion and this was the first time shooting. I did not change the puck,or gas regulator. I did change the trigger spring to the reduced power spring, and I did install a JT Magwell for Surefire mags. I could also not get 2 rounds to cycle in a row. even if the next round feed it would not fire. I used Federal low brass and Federal 2 3/4" mag. slugs. I found that the reduced power trigger spring was not resetting the trigger. If I pushed the trigger forward it would reset and fire the next round. The maga

The base of the Polychoke threads onto the Saiga barrel and is tightened with the supplied wrench. I used Blue Loctite when I installed mine. The threaded barrel end with the fingers STAYS on the barrel. You DO NOT remove it when you clean the choke. You unscrew the shrouded end and clean that part removed. The end that stays on the barrel is cleaned ON THE BARREL If you use blue Loctite you will be able to break it loose if you want to remove it, just heat it with a propane torch if necessary. Snug the base on to the barrel as tight as you can. The barrel will get plenty hot if you shoot at a