Maniac Jack
-
Content Count
221 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Maniac Jack
-
-
Ya know, this is all speculation here as far as the situation with 922r goes. I mean, any part, foreign or domestic, looks pretty much the same on an AK, and you'd have to have some kind of Nazi official wanting you to tear down your gun just so the bastard could thoroughly inspect all the parts to make sure they were "U.S. made." Hell, if the parts weren't stamped "made in USA" they could have been made in my shop, thus being a domestic part. Ya know? I could claim I cut the wood and custom made some trigger parts and made a piston on my lathe, and how could said official argue with that, especially if you were firm on exactly which parts were made in the U.S. or not? And who would let said Gestapo official even touch your gun, unless you were in an extremely public place? And even then, he'd run the risk of getting a solid "Fuck you" on my behalf. I don't know about you guys, but I usually shoot up in the woods in a group with like-minded people, and if some jack-ass came snooping around with confiscation on his mind he might just find more opposition than he could handle. Not to say all my guns don't comply with 922r and the laws of my state, but I would be all over someone like that if they tried to pull some shit.
And another thing, does anyone evn know what the minimum and maximum penalty for having in you posession a firearm that isn't 922r compliant? I hear a lot about it but haven't got the straight dope on it yet.
-
SAIGA 20'' 762X39 NIB $260.00+15.00 shipping
Was it imported by RAA or EAA? and how many mags does it come with? one?
-
Hey, I'm looking to pick up just the factory sear with the tang on the back of it. I need one so that I can use the bolt hold open; the tang on the back of the sear keeps the hammer/trigger spring from binding in the trigger hook. 5 bucks shipped, anyone? Thanks.
-
If your mag flops around excessively, then that could be causing a hang-up. Or, something else to check: the retaining pin for the firing pin on the bolt. Make sure its nice and snug in its hole, and not protruding out where it could hang up on the bolt carrier. If both of those are fine, then like ArcFault said, low pressure.
-
Speaking of the FSB, I really want my .308's in AKM configuration, with a threaded muzzle 14x1 LH with the little plunger retainer. So the question is this: Is it possible after getting the Saiga FSB off to drill a hole for a plunger pin? Or will I have to get a FSB with one already installed?
-
Speaking of questions, what is the best paint to use after you take that bottom plate off the gun? somebody mentioned it before, but I can't find the post. I scoured Cobra's walkthrough and still couldn't find it.
-
I've never fired a VEPR before, but would like to, if only to see what the difference is between the "Boar" and the "Goat"
Even with that said, I'm gonna have to go with you on this one G O B. even with a 4 mm thicker receiver, it can't shoot that much better. And if I'm paying 500-700 dollars more it better shoot starighter than a whore in church on Sunday. And let's say, oh, just to shoot the shit, that it did shoot better and more accurate. I would still have to go with a Saiga just for the accessorizable option. There seems to be more options to put different furnature and things on a Saiga than a VEPR. And there is something kinda special about having a firearm that was made in the Izhmash factory. Just a little piece of the Communists' broken dream...now in my hands by ways of Capitalism. 
-
1
-
-
I used the stock hammer with an AK trigger (non G2 but still the same shape) and would get the problem of the gun firing, chambering a round, but not cocking the hammer. I came to find out that the stock hammer is thinner, thus only becoming engaged on the sear and/or trigger hook when the bolt and bolt carrier is fully thrust to the rear of the receiver, whereas a regular AK hammer (G2 or otherwise) will engage the trigger hook and/or sear when the bolt and bolt carrier are pulled only halfway to the rear of the receiver. I thouht to myself, "then how in the hell does a stock FCG work then?" Well, it turns out that the stock trigger hook is canted a tad bit toward the back of the receiver and shaped a little different to compensate for the thinner stock hammer.
It seems that you had kind of the same problem, csspecs, only instead of the hammer not catching at all on the sear, like it was in my case, it seems like yours would catch the sear, but not re-catch on the trigger hook, resulting in a double-fire when you let your finger off the trigger. Again, most likely because of the thinner stock hammer on a standard trigger hook.
Oh, and that increased resistance that you noticed Hunter78, is probably because of the difference in size of the bolts and bolt carriers between a .308 and a 7.62x39 AK. If you run into problems at all with misfires, double-fires or chambering a round without cocking the hammer, just switch the stock hammer for the G2 hammer, get some molly gun lube for the friction and give 'er hell
-
Where'd pick that up at? I need to get me one!
-
It's usually a pain in the ass, but I found if you take a twist-tie, strip the material off it, and use it to hold in the BHO spring, it works pretty good. The trash is also an option
-
hmmmm
I have the wood stock set off my 308, in perfect shape.. $50 anyone? LOL!!
I'll even toss in the stock trigger and hammer....
You got the stock sear to go with that trigger and hammer?
-
What's REALLY sick is that these fucks talk like GUN LAWS and GUN BANS are a good thing! Like an unarmed America is what's saving lives. WTF!? Talk about fascist fucking propaganda!!
-
I've had problems with my mag rattling around so much in the mag well that it fails to feed. The problem seems to be that the mag is A.) not wide enough, or just not as wide as the factory mags, and B.) there isn't enough girth on the magazine catch to hold it in the gun tight enough. Has anybody else had these problems, or is this an isolated incident? (I have two .308's and both have this problem)
-
Hey James, ya know, since you guys are changing the mold for these mags in the middle of April, you oughta make them about a milimeter or two wider at the feed lips and add some extra plastic to the magazine catch. I know, I talked with you before, and you told me that all the guns are different tolerances, and that explains why some mags wobble like crazy in the receiver. But as far as tolerances go, its better to have more plastic on the mag and a tighter fit with the option to file down, than to have a loose fit with no options. You guys should at least add some more plastic to the magazine catch on the back of the mags. That's my educated observation; I'd like to know what you think about that.
-
Well, I was under the impression that a double hook trigger doesn't fit unless you modify the receiver to allow it to fit. Isn't that right?
-
I have also had a few problems with the mag I bought. It seems that it doesn't fit as tight as the factory 8 round mags do, thus giving it room to flop around and creating a failure to feed problem much akin to the problem that some of the WASR-10's are having. If your mag flops around at all, then thats what the problem is. If not, then its probably something to do with the smoothness of the inside of the mag, like Genocide said.
-
Well, this is Tony we're talkin' about here. If he wanted to, he could make anything work
-
Ya know, SOPMOD has a point. You should stick a BAR mag in there and have some fun.
-
I did the research, and if you buy the battle packs at that price, its about $7.50 a box of 20, without shipping. Sportsman's Guide has new production Wolf for around $6.30 a box of 20, after shipping. Me personally, I've been buying Federal PowerShok at $9 a box of 20 at my local G.I. Joe's. Different strokes for different folks, but I'd rather pay an extra ten bucks for the same amount of rounds that are new production and just put 'em in a sealed ammo can. If they were chargin' 35 or 40 bucks for a battle pack, that would be more like it. It seems like these are pretty popular though, so maybe I'm out of my element. Why are these thing so damn desirable?
-
It's not friggin rocket science.
Just make it look as much like the factory hammer as possible, what's hard about that?Here...
Ya know, speaking of the factory hammer, I actually tried using it with a standard AK trigger hook/disconnecter and had the interesting problem of it chambering a round but not cocking the hammer. I guess the factory trigger is too thin when used with a standard AK trigger hook. If you grind down the G2, make sure you only grind down that extra hump near the bottom where the cross-pin slides through. Correct me if I'm wrong Cobra, but that is the correct way to modify the G2 to fit in a .308, is it not?
-
So, if I wanted to get a Red Star Arms trigger I'd want to get the VEPR .308 version? And does anybody have a detailed pic or a link to a thread that talks about and/or shows how to fit a G2 in a Saiga .308? Thanks.
-
Hey guys, I got a technical question for anybody who can give an answer.
I bought a .308 16" awhile ago that had already been converted to pistol grip, and I finally got around to shooting it with a FBMG 20 round mag, and happened to have a few "problems," if you will. I would get a lot of stove-piping halfway through one mag and then not a hiccup the next mag. I started looking at the bolt as it was firing and it turns out that part of the time it wasn't slamming back all the way, or it looked like it kinda got hung up for a split second, just not enough oomph to eject the shell all the way. I was shooting brass cased Federal Power Shock 150 grain, so I was pretty sure it wasn't the ammo.
So, that all in mind, I take off the receiver cover and check out the FCG. Now, mind you, I have never seen an AK FCG in a Saiga .308 before. My FCG knowledge is limited to Romanian and Yugoslavian AKs. Now when I look in there, it seems that the hammer is alright (although it is tad bit thicker than the hammer in my unconverted .308), but I notice that whoever put this FCG in there didn't bother to grind down the trigger hook, as it sticks way up past the hammer when its down.
Upon further comparison, I notice that the unconverted trigger group of a Saiga .308 is way lower profile than a regular AK FCG, and I imagine that this is to accommodate the larger bolt and carrier for the larger sized .308 round. So, I was thinking that I ought to take both FCGs out, and use the unconverted Saiga FCG as a template for grinding down the FCG that's in my PG .308, and while I'm at it, convert my other .308.
So, even with all this thought out, its all still speculation on my part. If anyone can confirm the possibility of any of this with cold hard facts, I would be in their debt forever
Even better, if anyone can supply a good picture of a properly ground, or proper looking trigger group for a Saiga .308 it would be great. Thanks. -
Looking for anyone who can spare a pistol grip nut. I got the standard pistol grip and screw, but am at a loss for the square nut that fits the receiver.
Alternately, if anyone has a whole pistol grip set of ANY kind for cheap that would be nice too. Thanks.
-
Pro-Mag 30 rounders....Opinions? Reviews?
in Saiga .223
Posted
I've actually got a couple Orlites myself, but I've held off on doing the bullet guide mod even though I've got the kit. Procrastination is a wonderful thing. I come to find out that Bulgarian waffle mags will work without installing a bullet guide, so I've planned to buy some of them to see. For me, less work = more fun. Any experience with the Bulgarian mags? Pros, cons?