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Darth AkSarBen

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Posts posted by Darth AkSarBen

  1. I have a Sig 522 and it's OUTSTANDING !! Shoots any ammo, even Wal-Mart bulk cheap stuff. Accurate, non-jamming ....EVER. You can put Swiss rails on the side and bottom and it is the spitting image of a Sig Sauer 556. Side folds and you can shoot from that position as well. Removable flash hider and the barrel is ALL steel , not some barrel insert. Made by Sig Sauer and not some other company. Lifetime warranty. Pricy, but magazines are plentiful everywhere. Any AR-15 22LR magzine that fits the AR-15 rifles works in this. Defenitely a cool carbine. I had a Rugerr 10/22 and the first one was pretty flawless for feeding but the last one I bought (and sold) had issues in feedingi. Don't know if it was because it was stainless or what. On the Ruger only the barrel was Stainless, every thing else was cast aluminum.

  2. More barrels are damaged by excessive/aggressive cleaning and not actually shot-out. Ask a barrel manufacturer.

    True. I would always clean it after shooting, but you have to keep in mind that cleaning does not entail stainless steel bore brushes, but just swabbing out the carbon reside with good old Hoppe's #9.

  3. That safety probem is common. It is because you changed the Fire Control Group. The safety that came with the gun in it's original has been altered to accomodate that funny long trigger. In other words, they shortened the tab that comed down to hold your tirgger from releasing the hammer. I just used silver solder and put a good bead on it and filed it down so that it would fit nicely. It has no stress or wear points, other than it stops the upward movement of the trigger when you have the safety in position. Read about it in the .308 forum as a stick marked "Safety Problem" here: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=11427

     

    If you're good welding you can put a bronze bead across the bar that meets the trigger group as well.

  4. While alot of people think recoil buffers are a waste of money, I have them on all my AK's & FAL's. I use the thicker Buffertech, & have never had a problem. However, on the Saiga .308 it already comes with a metal buffer at the end of the recoil assy, just where you'd put the rubber one. You can't use both. In my case, I used a milled AK tube type recoil assy with the 308 recoil spring so I could use the rubber buffer. I don't know if all 308 Saiga's come with this metal recoil assy, but my gun made in 06 did. Some people say the rubber buffers caused problems on their guns, & I believe them, but I've never had a problem. In my case I'm happy that it keeps the back of the bolt carrier from slamming into the rear trunion. Some say a carrier shouldn't hit the trunion if the the recoil spring is new. Well my Saiga has all new parts, & the carrier was hitting the trunion. Now it hits a rubber pad. GARY N4KVE

     

    That metal device on the reoil spring assembly is not a buffer it's a limiter. It is also called that in the manual. It's purpose is not to buffer anything, but to limit the amount of travel that the bolt carrier will go to the rear. Without it, the bolt carrier can take the bolt back far enough to literally pop up and out of it's guide rails. There is a very small slot on the rails that allows the bolt to come up and out for dissasembly. Putting in any buffer in this area would not be wise.

     

    Cheaper than Dirt has a recoil reducing complete assembled butt stock that is pretty nice.

    Here is a direct link to what it looks like and costs.

    http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AKS161-6.html

  5. You really need to put it forward where it belongs. it's not necessary to use a double hook trigger. If you do, it is a lot more difficult to get the adjustment just right so that there is even pressure on both sides of the hammer, or else one side is simply the sear let-off. If you do put in a double hook, the receiver needs another notch in it to accomodate the other "hook". This can be done rather easily with a Dremel.

  6. Might look here: http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseProducts.aspx?pageNum=1&tabId=3&categoryId=9331&categoryString=653***690***

     

    .260 will never be competitive with .308 as far as factory ammo is concerned. Not a lot of it made. Hornady recently came out with the 6.5 Creedmoor, a more sharper shouldered .260 in their premium ammunition. It is close to the .260 and also DPMS has a upper and probably just a barrel in this caliber as well.

  7. Thank you for the reply and for your service!! Since it's an AR-10T you could also get the upper for the .260 Remington and fire that as well. .260 Remington has the advantages of smaller bullet (6.5mm) but simply a necked down .308 case. Look up the ballistics between the .308 and the .260 Remington. Try this site: http://www.remington...ion/Ballistics/ Pick .260 Remington and then .308 Winchester. If you look at the trajectorys, speed (fps) and ft/lb of energy, it does not take the 6.5 very long to surpass the .308 Winchester in those areas. When the bullet hits, it actually penetrates better because of the long dimensions of the 6.5 bullet.

     

    This link: http://www.remington.com/Products/Ammunition/Ballistics/comparative_ballistics_results.aspx?data=PRA260RA*R308W1 (you'll have to copy and paste link) compares the 120 gr .260 Remington bullet to a 150 gr .308 Winchester bullet. At muzzle the .308 is better and at 100 yards it is only slightly better, but at 200 yards and beyond, the .260 bullet has more retained ft/lb of energy. Example: at 400 yards, the .260 (6.5mm) has 1340 fl/lb of energy compared to the .308 Winchester (7.62) of 1048 ft/lb of energy left. 500 yards is even more dramatic.

     

    With your AR-10, the bolt and carrier would be the same, as the .260 has the same size brass as .308 except for the smaller neck size/bullet. So I would bet real money that you would not even have to change magazines to shoot the .260 Remington, just change out the barrel. I bought some .260 Remington bullets (a few) and they load and chamber fine in my .308 Savage. You just don't want to shoot them in the .308 as they are not the right size (undresized bullet) but probably would not be dangerous, but you would expand the .260 brass to .308 brass in doing so and the bullet would be horribly inaccurate.

     

    I wonder why they never made a .260 (6.5mm) / .308 sabbot? That would let you handload with the .264" diameter bullet and use it in your .308" diameter barrel.

  8. I stumbled across this read, and would share it with all of you. The page goes into a lot of detail about early Assault Rifle development, and it's advancements, successes and failures through history, with an ending on the future of some of the cartridges. Of particular interest may be the development of the 7.62 x 39 and it's beginnings, and the rifle development. I found it a very interesting read, and just wanted to pass it on to anyone interested in some of the back scene ballistics and developments in military rounds. The page has some of the most exotic ammunition rounds I have ever witnessed, and the collector/writer has a very interesting background and collection of ammunition that you don't often see or even hear about. The link to the Assault Rifles And Their Ammunitions And Tony's home page is here: http://www.quarry.nildram.co.uk/

    • Like 1
  9. Littlebigman, I took a closer look at your Saiga rifle. It has the '3rd' hole for the automatic timing, which is near and above the magazine release. Is this a select fire Saiga as well as being a short barrel? So, the Izhmash factory does make larger capacity magazines for this rifle it would appear.

     

    Also not many people put 2 dots above their " i " as in your word, "Saïga" (smïlïng)

  10. Sorry, not the main spring. The 3 parts of the fire control group are the trigger, sear and disconnect. Most non looking (IE remains virtually stock) configuration is the gas piston.

     

    BTW, Greg, what is that flash hider on the rifle? Looks like a bird cage and that was what I was looking for.

  11. 100 meters is 109 yards. Is the range really in meters and not yards?

    If you are staying away from uncommon rounds for the AR 10, then you wouldn't consider the 6.5 Creedmoor or .260 Remington. You can get them in an AR 10 in that chambering. At 300 yards they nearly even with the .308 Winchester for ft/lb of energy, but at 400 yards and more the 6.5 bullets simply keep right on going and out perform the .308 in feet per second Ft/sec and down range energy ft/lb Funny to think of a thinner round, with less recoil actually out performing the .308. Also the accuracy of very good AR10 in those chamberings is phenominal. The 6.5 Grendel has a documented group of 1.198" 5 shot group, signed at the range. That was a 660 yard 5 shot group.

     

    Personally, I'd try to find something in a piston action rifle as opposed to the gas impringment system of the original Stoner design.

  12. +1 Nalioth. Kalashnikov actions are not unique just to Saiga. Robinon Arms www.robarm.com sell a rifle that comes in .223, 6.8 SPCII and, yes, 7.62 x 39 and are based on the Kalashnikov action. Perhaps he has one of them in his store? I cannot believe that the law prohibits selling a Kalashnikov action rifle just because it is chambered in 7.62 x 39 Soviet.

     

     

     

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    ha, the Saiga as a mid distance "battle rifle" is a great gun.. and am very happy with its accuracy at mid distances (roughly 100m and under)... the reason im trading my AR in 223 for an AR in 308 is two fold.. the first is im making out really well in the trade.. and two, while im confident in the ability of an AK platform rifle at lower distances, when it comes to a precise long range shooting im not really sure that a firearm with such loose tolerances would suit what im trying to do, and that is have an accurate longer range firearm..

     

    but i wont be parting with my 7.62x39 Saiga anytime soon..

     

    What loose tolerances? Headspace is pretty well within expected limits. When the bolt closes on a round the round is held pretty tight in the chamber. Once the round if fired, the bolt doesn't begin to rotate out of batter until a slight bit after the bullet leaves port in the barrel and probably exits the barrel by then. There are barrel flexes and vibratiions, but if the pressures are consistent, you will eventually find a certain "pressure" that does pretty good for accuracy. Only loose part is the action before and after round goes into battery.

  14. It's true. My .308 seems to be a real shooter even with the 16" length barrel. Dave, the guy I bought mine from has a .308 in 22" which I never had a connection with because of the length of barrel. Same money too, $400.00. I don't have $400.00. But if I did, I'd buy it and then work little by little in conversions. I like the .243 as a caliber, but it's nature, by design, works better with slower burning powders. 24" is a good choice of barrels for the .243, as you have enough length to work with for best velocity and efficient burn and accuracy. My choice would be the .260 Remington. Same size brass as the .308, except just neck sized smaller. Should fit in a .308 Saiga magazine very well. Will have to get a piece or two of brass sometime and try it. It's VERY similar to the newer 6.5 Creedmoor that Hornady has developed, but I believe you can load it with heavier bullets, better. The 6.5 is a much better round for flat shooting out there above the .243, and hit's just a lot harder. You can take deer with .243, I've even taken 2 deer with the .223 chambered Savage I once had. However, the 6.5 has a great selection of different bullets, some match, others hunting. Recoils less than .308 and you should be able to load 25 rounds in the magazine like you do with the .308 Winchester. Pressures are very similar to .308 and I think the brass would last a long time as well. Remington and Federal both make factory ammo for this caliber. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/SearchResults.aspx?catid=529&site=Ammunition&num=10&q=.260+Remington

     

    .243 would make a very nice round in the fact that you can get ammunition for it practically anywhere. But, with me reloading, all I need is components. I shoot factory often just to get the brass. My ammunition store is right in my closet.

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