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Darth AkSarBen

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Everything posted by Darth AkSarBen

  1. I was at Dunham's Sporting Goods store this afternoon and bought 1 box of brown boxed .308 marked ".308 7.62 x 51" Shot a few and this evening I tried to resize them and came to realize that I couldn't knock out the primer. I did not "force" the issue. Looked in there with a flashlight and it looks like I have 2 holes on either side of where the main primer hole is. Bummer!! They were only $14.99 / box of 20. I think they are fire and forget. Head stamp on them says " 308W O 82 O with the "O" across from each other and the "82" at the bottom.
  2. I have found some Israeli .308 Win bullets that are $14.95 per bag of 50. So I am wondering are they reloadable? Do they have the boxer primed cases, or are they a one shot, and pitch round? Nice brass case. I have "one" at home that is a TZ 81 headstamped.
  3. My .308 after I got done with moving some of the "furniture" on it from the .223. I re-did the .223 with dark earth tone color fore grip,PG, and butt stock (Tapco collapsible) which makes it a very different look for each of them. Targets??? Working on a few loads. Some successes. Shot one just yesterday that measures around 0.701" at 100 yards. Trying out some more loads tomorrow.
  4. You didn't really look at it too hard. This link: http://www.israeli-w...t_stocks/p9.htm shows a complete recoil reducing stock, buffer tube and rear adjustable piece as well. I made one for mine, with $2.50 worth of material. Works great. You could shoot it all day long, and doesn't feel like the .308 Winchester anymore. Another link, here in the U.S. http://www.makosecur...gory_Code=_stks Here is one from Sportsman's Guide: http://www.sportsman...07&kwtid=307145 I believe these are a bit more refined than mine. It buffers the whole of the stock on any setting.
  5. +1 !! I would strongly advise against neck sizing. On any Semi Auto, they always recommend full length resizing. On my resized rounds, even the full length, when you put one in the chamber after sizing, and close the bolt it is a very tight fit, almost to the point that I am concerned that it does not FULLY go into battery. The last thing you want is the bullet to fire if it is not in fairly secure battery. Factory closes and is tight. My resized brass closes and is EXTRA tight. Neck sizing would be even worse. My 2 cents.
  6. It's for the .308 Winchester. I only have the Saigas in .223 and .308. I don't have anything that shoots 7.62 x 39. However, I did do some research and looking and it appears that for the x39 that Hodgdon Varget is too slow to provide much power for decent ballistics. I think it's probably a bit slow also for this rifle, the .308, but I have heard many good things about it and I have a pound of it to burn up. Should try some more with Benchmark H335,and BLC-2 as I really think they are a bit better for the shorter 16" barrel. I have even thought of getting some H322 to try as it, too, is
  7. Yes, the twist rate is 1:12, but more like 1 in 12.598" It has a rate of twist of 1 in every 320mm. Remember, it's a metric rifle built in Russia. Source: http://izhevsk.club.guns.ru/eng/sig308.htm I've shot all the way down to IMR 4198 which is pretty fast. BLC-2 and H335 also look very promising. I have been trying Varget as I cannot load my .223 up with it as it overfills the case when I try to load it, so I don't want it to go to waste. It has, however, seemed to work very very well in this rifle. No, I have not seen streamers. I think it is getting pretty much burned up. I al
  8. Commercial brass. Military brass is smaller inside and I think it would have been a bit more of a chore to get the powder in there at that load capacity. It came up into the neck as it was.
  9. I bought stock, PG, foregrip to replace the one for my .223 and moved all that furniture over to the .308 PLUS I bought a Tapco G2 trigger group, and retainer plate for this rifle (.308). Total came up to around $163.00 with shipping.
  10. The 130 gr were more a "spitzer" bullet, they tapered in pretty quick to a point, where the 150gr were more relaxed curve toward the bullet tip, a kind of spire point. That may have had some effect on the overall length when set to the same spot on my LEE bullet seating die. Also, I wanted the bullet to be held by a little more neck than the 150gr which went in there very well. I used the LEE factory crimp on the bullets, so they had the same crimp, light, regardless of case length. Case length for a .308 is 2.800" but I had selected the 2.730 are this was closer to the Overall Case Leng
  11. NOW that I have a .308, I can post in here some results. Sub MOA, 16" barrel Saiga .308. Using handloads of Varget. Left target was 150 gr spire point with Varget shot at 100 yards, 3 shots. Target on the right was 130 gr spire point, with Varget. I think you can read the grains used in the picture. I have had several in the last few days that approached 1" MOA. I've put in a polished Tapco G2 trigger group and am breaking in the barrel. It might do better after several more rounds. Shoot just a few, then clean WELL with CR-10 Copper bore solvent, or Sweet's 7.62 copper bore cleaner,
  12. I found cheap ammo at Dunhams, and passed. I like the idea of using good ammunition and reloadable. I don't trust all that eastern bloc ammo or the Chinese either. There are some places I have found that recommend you do not shoot this stuff if you like your rifle. I like my rifle.
  13. I like the Jalbum picture pop up. Nice! I have that on my website as well, just opted for different delay times, and options in the previous/next section. http://taurus45acp.com/gallery/index.htm
  14. Yes. Old stock has 3 screws and with a bit of persuasion, and a dead blow hammer, I got it off the rifle. The new one just slides right in and you have to dril for the phillips head screws they send. Also, they send the drill, but I didn't use it. It was too small before, so I drilled with the next size bigger dril (fractions). Very easy to install. Fore grip is about as simple.
  15. I used a small bit of spring (same size) on the end of my recoil spring assembly. It simply fits on the end when I put the spring back in the hole for it, and latch it in. It gives extra tension on the spring and helps to keep the brass from flinging so far and my brass does not get dinged so bad by the ejector. I also have an automotive door guard on it that I got at Autozone, about 2" right near the curve on the dust cover. Would you all like pics of that extra spring affair sometime?
  16. Thanks, Tom for the reply!! I found out that this "notch" also makes it a bit impossible to put the bolt and carrier back in place with the scope mount attached on the side. The mount goes over the dust cover and on the .223 this is not a problem getting the bolt/carrier back in place. But I find I need to push down on the left side of the bolt to get it to go into the notch when re-asembling wiht the .308, because of the upward pressure of that 3rd lug. I can't do that with the scope mount in place. Perhaps it's time to "modify" the scope mount and provide a cut out there so t
  17. I switched to "CleanCut" at the bottom of the page, and kind of like that skin better. If you get some skins in here, (a few more) that might help. The pictures post more like they do at another forum. I have a java picture album at my web site that when you click on a thumnail, the picture pops out at you while the ouside dims. Then, another click on the pic and the picture goes back to a thumbnail. I've seen it at another gun forum site. Works pretty slick. ref: http://taurus45acp.com/gallery/index.htm You'll see what I mean. Vernon
  18. I like the looks of the one at www.sportsman.com link. The other link would not open up. It looks like the recoil is in the front part of the stock and in that way all the hole positions would be available. Actually a very nice idea, and better off on an engineering standpoint. Mine is just "fix it now, cheap!".. LOL
  19. I made my own with the $2.00 spring. Modified the Tapco stock so that it would have some small distance for the recoil. And, it works very well at reducing the recoil. See post #14 of this thread for pictures.
  20. So, what was the purpose of that elongated slot with the bigger hole?
  21. I got this: "Door Edge Guard" pn T3802 Professional Automotive Trim at Auto Zone. U-SHAPED style comes with 2 pieces. MORE than you will ever need. I roughed up the area where I wanted tp put it, on both my 223 and my .308 and cut about a 2" piece. I used super glue to hold it in place. It goes on the upper part of the open area of the dust cover, near the point where the dust cover line makes about a 45 degree cut to go down toward the receiver. I have little damage from my brass and reload. I also put in an extra 1/2" of coil spring on the end of the reoil spring end that gives
  22. I have a Tapco Intrafuse fore grip for my .308. It come with both the front insert for the .308 and the .223/7.62 x 39. simply put on the rails, and then put the stock on the rifle. Nothing hard at all.
  23. Well, before I go to bed, just thought I'd post that my .308 (I have one now, YES), now has the Tapco FCG, the Tapco Intrafuse fore grip with tri rails, Tapco PG, and the Tapco T6 stock that I had modified for the recoil of the .308. This is the "old" T6 stock I had that had the integrated pistol grip on it, but just took off the PG and mounted as normal. The safety lever is shorter than the .223, so I swapped it and then worked on the safety lever this afternoon. I silver soldered a nail to the ridge on the safety that meets the trigger group. Then I cut the nail and ground down th
  24. Checked my .308 safety lever against my .223 and the .308 WAS shorter. So, I took the .308 lever and silver soldered a small nail on the lever, and then ground it down so that that it would fit back in the rifle. Works GREAT!~~~! Now, I'll keep the .223 lever for the .308 conversion when the new trigger group comes in today. Apparently the factory cut back that tab on the safety lever for the odd ball trigger that comes OEM on the .308. I think any standard AKM would work. I had to clean enough material away for the safety lever to rotate after I got it back in the position. It only hol
  25. Recoil, was one of the reasons that the M16 was used for our military. There are a host of reasons, but one of the criteria was that it's recoil was mild, especially compared to the M-14 in .308 and the M1 in 30-06, and especially the latter. On the one series of No.1 Rifles, the AK-47 came in #1, the M-16 came in #2. And there was the FN-FAL in .308 that came in at #5 position, which one of the reasons was the recoil of this rifle. If you can shoot without something backing up at you, and thinking about it on a target range, or as a sniper situation, there is a better chance you won't f
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