elementaltoad

They won't let me use the gun at the rifle range, but they had a 25 yard shotgun range with a rest so we tried that. Certainly 50-100yards is achievable. At 25 yards, individual holes were not discernible, there were just large ragged chunks of paper gone. Grouping was easily sub 1 inch, and it was easy enough to get them through the same hole. This was with the winchester super-x foster slugs.

He does do amazing shipping, I am afraid to order from any other vendor - for fear of getting impatient waiting on gear! I will certainly be doing all my saiga 12 business with CSS, and have, all of my conversion parts have come from him!

It just made me laugh a bit, I saw them and immediately ordered one from you. I knew if I waited I would miss the chance. Then this morning they were sold out! Selling like hotcakes I bet! Can't wait to get mine in the mail

I noticed you're...uh....sold out now

Ah, that is what I used, I may need to go back over it with fine grit paper, like 1200, and then do the polish, I just used the emery wheel before starting polishing.

Ok, so I smoothed some things out with a dremel taking my time making sure not to make any deep marks. I got the bolt shined up pretty well, I may leave it this way, trying to get a bit more polish out of it though. Anyone know what will give that "smooth as glass" appearance to these items? I used a emery wheel, but it seemed to leave light scratches of it's own that won't come out. I think that's about as close as I can get, without having it chromed.

sounds good, I just wanted a couple opinions before I finish up, I polished most edges and started finishing the bottom of the bolt. Looks like all that's left is a superficial shine up in that case. Thanks again guys. Pardon me if I seem stubborn, I just want to make absolute certain this is normal before I button up the project. ....I also like to make things shiny Again, thanks for the advice, I'll try to get some pics when it's closer to finished.

Come on now, you don't port and polish heads on a hot rod for nothing! I mainly just concerned if it's not normal. If that is just the way they all work I can live with that, but if there is a way to make it more efficient during the cycling it might be worth it. It just seems like the front most face of the bolt is not sitting properly when it is all the way forward, requiring more energy to get the bolt to lock up. Thanks for the heads up, It goes bang every time, only one FTE which was caused by a jagged edge/burr on the ejector slot. I polished that up nicely and it should never

I have finally converted my S12 and want to make all the finishing touches. I have followed the polishing tutorial and polished all of the friction surfaces on the bottom of the bolt, bolt head, feed ramp and FCG surfaces. I Still don't have the action working quite as smoothly as I'd like however... My particular S12 seems to hang about 1/2-1" from fully closing when gently pushing the bolt and carrier forward. To find the main source of friction I disassembled the firearm and hand cycled ONLY the bolt and carrier, without the spring and guide rod. I found: - Carrier seems to stick on

This should be a sticky if not already, I am having the same issue with my S12. No FTE but the bolt is noticeably slow to close, when watching carefully the extractor must be shoved out of the way an abnormal amount in order for the bolt to close. My extractor slot seems to have too much material in turn causing the slow bolt close issue. I am trying to attain the "bolt closes under it's own weight" smoothness... One step at a time. This seems to be a large step in that direction.

can we add "come and take it" to the vote options?

There is a break in? Just got mine this past weekend and ran 150rds of Federal 3 DRAM 7 1/2 bird shot through it doing clays. Only had one FTE, light birdshot would definitely be good to start with...and lots of clays ( it frequently nailed 2 clays or more in one shot).