5whiskey

I disagree with leaving anything on the piston.....it will only burn off imho I agree anything on the plunger of the piston is kinda moot point. Anything on the sides is fair game. It could prevent it from seating the same way every time when the bolt slams home. You tried outers foaming bore cleaner? You may just like it

"barrel whip" and "reciever flex" happens to a degree in EVERY FIREARM EVER PRODUCED. The physics of it may baffle you. Hell, it baffles me. BUT, that doesn't negate the fact that it happens. If it didn't happen at all, then there would be no need or talk of "free floating" the barrel of any rifle. They teach this to Quanitco Armourers. Even stiff, short actioned bolt rifles suffers from reciever flex and barrel whip to a degree. It's why M40s don't have scope rings/mounts under a certain tolerance. The act of any form of distortion, be it whip, flex, or whatever else you want to call it, happ

And this is truth here. Thank you for that point. Honestly, I've never seen a rifle THIS picky over ammo... but it's not like I've shot everything in existance either. I've been around but not THAT much. With barnual ammo, I'm getting more of a pattern than group. With Hornady, it will group but there will be bad flyers. With Fiocchi, I get a true group. Shooting this morning, it was holding 2 to 2.5" until the barrel started getting real hot. I'm still shooting without the handguard... I'm going to make one that lets the barrel float when I get around to it. All in all, though, I was amazed a

You may actually be on to something there. It does seem like there is always one that is out. Also, it does seem like the most abysmal results I've seen came from hand feeding each round without using a magazine. Thanks for adding that man, I'll test for it

both, and to my knowledge non-converted will not rotate out without removing FCG (barring me having an utter stupid attack, which I'm not above ) . I really don't want to do that... mostly out of sheer laziness.

As I said, peace and no offense taken. However, I have tried "(it rotates up and then comes out the right side)" this and trust me it doesn't fly. The safetly lever is blocked by the sear... and I'm pretty sure the BHO may prevent it from coming out the slot once rotated. Other than that, I know HOW to do it more or less... I was just hoping I was having another stupid attack and there was a way to do it without drilling out the rivets on the FCG... I miss accurizing my ARs at times . (BTW, the safety question has to do with adjusting the trigger without converting or installing a new FCG).

Maybe I'm being the king of Duesche-bags, but I actually care a little how my gear looks. An old inner tube, a couple of black zip ties, and 1 extra minute would make the same function look SOOO much better. I like zip ties because I don't have to wash/scrub the mags to get the tape residue off when I eventually decide I don't like mags taped together (trust me, it will happen). Far as that goes, Doing the Iraqi/Somali thing and just taping two together with the receiver end facing different directions would look better than that (though not function better, admittedly). All in all, though

Yeah, I'm a noob to this particular sight so flame me if you want, but I saw nothing particularly rude about Izzys comment. All he said was he was no noobi, he knew how to tell the difference between a milled and stamped receiver, and was familiar with arsenal. IF that's enough to acquire the rath of other members here maybe I should re-eval my membership.

OK, let's see. Where do I start? I could take offense but I wont. Suffice it to say I've built a rifle that will shot a 3" group at 500 yards. I know what I'm doing well enough to be safe to myself, bud. I promise. I do admit to not knowing a whole lot about AK workings just yet, as this project began this week and I've done nothing but get shot at by them before now. That's the main reason why I take no offense and why I started this thread. Most of the stuff I'm saying is not wrong, however. Handguard and gas tube pressure on the barrel can and will affect accuracy on any weapon. He

Yeah, that's the only thing. I would think it should work, but you'd have to headspace it. Honestly, it's my theory that our rifles probably have a prettly loose headspace tolerance and could stand to be tightened anyway. I don't know how much work that is with an AK though.

So yeah, I'm kicking around to get some ideas. I've already figured alot of stuff out on my own... I'm a fairly competent 'smith and I have built some precision bolt rifles that shoot .5 moa or better. I am, however, new to this AK thing and it is a different ballgame. I first wanted to test my rifle just to see how capable it was. I mounted a scope (properly) and shot the rifle from the prone and on a soft rest. Results were abysmal. I'm talking 3" to 4" groups at 50 yards. After playing around for a few minutes, I remember watching the high speed camara showing the barrel whip in an AK f

You, sir, are the man. I completely understand the concept. I was actually looking at my FCG tonight trying to figure out how to take up the slack. The more I looked at it, the more I knew that this wouldn't be that hard to do. A quick internet search and viola'... someone did the leg work for me. I would've gotten it, but I like it when others make it easier. You da man... thanks.

Just WOW... whoever posted the pictures of their groups... WOW. True precision rifles that are even dared to be called DM rifles should print a 1" group @ 50 yards rapid fire EVERY TIME. There's a couple groups that you marked 2.8" that look a little wierd, too. Unless you're using 6" paper plates, those groups are 4" easy. Not too bad for rapid fire from an AK variant, but still nothing even remotely close to precision quality. On the other hand, I think saying that you couldn't hit a man sized target if you tried at 200 yards is stretching matters on the other end too. I think, with some

Dark Asarben, I'm pretty sure that you if would've drilled a few 1/16" diameter holes in the plastic in that area at different angles, you would've gotten the epoxy to possibly hold up. Either way, I don't think that epoxy or JB weld will offer too much support with the bolt slamming into the feed lip. I broke the "tab" on my first two promags. Got them replaced, filed down the tab about 1/4" and put a bevel on it, and I haven't had a problem since. I think promag may have gotten an especially out of spec rifle when they designed the promags. I know with normal aks some mags seat way better th

This man speaks truth. I think the gas tube with vents would be annoying as heck, to the point of making it a bad idea (this is my theory, it may not be that bad), but it seems like my .223 saiga is very violent in operation. More so than a standard AK. I suspect that RAA used the same gas system designed for a 30k psi round and put it on a rifle chambered for a 55k psi round. I don't know for sure, so if I'm wrong please correct me. That's an idea, but I would think it'd have to be done in a very stout manner to keep from blowing the bushing out.