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oliverb

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Everything posted by oliverb

  1. I have a Brunton 1X that looks like that one. Bought it for less than $30 last year for my converted Saiga 410. Haven't put a lot of rounds through the shotgun yet but so far the scope has held up well. A 2X version would be neat.
  2. Yep, I am certain yours is a Barska. They are identical. I e-mailed Barska customer service last might with an inquiry for replacement. Asked them if they would replace my Tactical version with the one in the link below. Looks like a newer version w/o the other rails and looks like the rear tensioner screw is lower so it will lock in a groove and not slide forward as you shoot. No matter how much I tightened the score on the rail, it would still slide forward. Examined mine more carefully last night and the LED still glows but an internal lens is knocked loose and you can no longer see the dot
  3. Yep, it is the Barska. Have had one for several months and more than 100 rounds through the rifle with it mounted. At our home range today, on the second shot one of the lenses dropped down out of place. Also, the view at 2X on mine is just a touch off focus. In general, before today I was reasonably satisfied with it. Now it depends on what Barska will do for me. You can get them for less than $99. One more thing - when mounted on the rail, it tends to slide forward because there isn't any way to lock it in one of the grooves of the rail. Maybe I really am not as satisfied with as I thought!!
  4. Sorry to hear about your experience with Centerfire. Must be unusual as I don't think I have ever seen a similar complaint about Centerfire. Bought two guns from them - the last a Draco that had numerous problems. They gladly replaced it with one hand selected and test fired.
  5. Purchased my Draco from Centerfire. One I received was a "Vodka Special" with a left canted rear sight block, messed up rivets, very sloppy action, bolt carrier seriously hanging up in gas block and many jams in 60 rnds. Talked with Centerfire and they graciously accepted the return, hand picked a good one and even test fired it. Bought my Saiga X39 from them last year. Good folks to deal with. Draco price $329 (3% more if by credit card) plus $15 S&H = $344. Even though there was a little more expense and hassle, it was worth it in the end because the one I ended up with is perfect! If yo
  6. Just to be clear, the shotguns don't get bullet guides during conversion. Converted my 410 and the conversion does make it a better, easier handling, more balanced gun. I did a Surefire lower hand guard, Surefire 10 rnd mag, trigger group mod, ergo pistol grip, vertical front grip and K-Var AK butt stock. I installed a flashlight on the side rail of the hand guard, a scope mount on the receiver side mount rail and an inexpensive (Brunton-has held up well) red dot scope. Looks great, functions well. IMHO, a great varmint gun and close range home defense shotgun loaded with a couple rnds of
  7. One thing you don't want to do is take a measured amount - like 1/16" or 1/8" - off before you try the mags you have. Your rifle may not need that much. This is very much a try as you go mod. If you don't have com-bloc mags yet, purchase some so you can try them for fit before you take any off the mag catch. Once you get your rifle, you will clearly see where the excess metal must be removed. See the link below for one source for good quality mags. It's your decision on the capacity you want to have on hand. I have a 30 and a 40 rnd but I prefer the 20 rnd mags for most of my shooting. You can
  8. I received e-mails with tracking info. for both gun purchases from Centerfire - end of Summer '09 and this Spring.
  9. It is less likely that you will have the "typical" issues with a Saiga that you see referenced in posts about new and kit-built guns from other sources. The fit-n-finish will, in general, be of higher quality that most others unless compared with the special Saiga Legion-built/Arsenal refit guns. My first new Romanian Draco was a "Vodka Special" with buggered rivets, canted rear sight block, binding bolt carrier and lots of slop in the action as the bolt carrier slid over the rails. The replacement was night & day better. Apparently, that's what you see with many of the other builds. Some
  10. When prices were higher last year, I paid $400 for my 410. Saw a recent post that said none had come into the U.S. since last January. Wonder just how "new" it is - date of manufacture?
  11. Bought the "modified" Tapco trigger group for both of my conversions and didn't need to do anything.
  12. I had the same thought when installing my guide. Don't see why not.
  13. I don't believe they are talking about any filing on the mag itself. What they are filing is the squared off edge of the bullet guide to round it slightly to keep the bullet nose (mostly hollow point bullets) from hanging up on that edge. If you have already filed the mag catch on your gun so all com-block mags now fit, that is all you need to do. Ps. I filed the bullet guides on both my Saiga 7.62 and Draco. Hollow point bullets did hang up a few times in the Draco. Now it's GTG. AS was said above, the guide may round off after some rnds are fired through the gun but I personally think it
  14. Here is a link for another butt stock option that would look great on a Draco. From what I understand, one hole for the mounting screw ( or you can use a bolt through the trunnion) and a slot in the trunnion for the aligning tab on the back of the butt stock mount. http://www.czechpoint-usa.com/products/spare-parts-and-accessories/vz-58-parts-and-accessories/folding-stock-complete/ I currently have ATI black synthetic hand guards with plastic rails on my Draco but my son is pressuring me to return it to a more traditional look with the wood furniture (stained Russian Red) and the red b
  15. The Atlantic offering is a custom built AK pistol with a 9.5" barrel. As others have stated above, the true "Draco" (brand name) is a 7.62 X 39 AK pistol that comes with an 11.5" barrel and is a new, Romanian Cugir factory-made pistol, imported by C.A.I. and re-fitted in the U.S. with a Tapco G2 FCG. The "Champion" is the .223 version from the same factory. The Champion does not seem to be coming in now and is pretty difficult to find as well as pricey. Seems there is a much larger market for the popular 7.62 version. While shorter barreled versions look neat, the 11.5" barrel still maintains
  16. If you buy the modified trigger group (see link below) you will not have to do any mods to the group and it will allow you to keep the factory BHO. Used this in both my Saiga refle and shotgun, http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-TRIGGERS-dsh-TRIGGERS-GUARDS/Categories
  17. You do have to be careful making the cut as it is difficult to distinguish between where the FSB metal ends and the metal of the barrel begins. This is not an impossible task but you do need to go slowly so you don't damage the barrel. A little nick in the barrel is of no consequence but a deep slot in it is a problem!
  18. If your hands are not large, the Hogue would probably be better for you. I have a Hogue and another brand of ergo grip that is a little wider. While I like both, the Hogue fits my hand size better.
  19. I have switched them back-n-forth between my X39 and 410. No problem.
  20. I would't shorten the tab until it's flush with the receiver. While it is still in the gun, push it up all the way and draw a pencil line along the receiver edge. Then shorten it to leave just a small amount extended when it is fully depressed. It will still clear the trigger nicely.
  21. It is called the "Bolt Hold Open". You will se it referred to as the BHO in many posts. Pull back on the charging handle and push up on the BHO. Hold the BHO up then let go of the charging handle and you will see the function of the BHO.
  22. You did remove "3" screws?
  23. Just observing the pics of the one from Dinzag and the one from CSS, there looked to be a difference to me. The screw with the Dinzag bullet guide is flat on the top and the guide is recessed enough for the screw to set below the surface of the guide. Doesn't sound like a tap depth problem but a difference in the two guides & screws.
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