[A Wolf in Chaos Clothing.]

 

 

That, my friend...
Is a beautiful thing.

Mad props to one of the two best fabricators in the biz.... (other than me)
Good job, well done.
(I fucking LOVE the seamless H&K transition)

[SVD FOLDER, ALL FOLDER FOLDER HARDWARE, AND SVD FOREGRIP $400.00]

Possibly sold, pending funds.

That's a sweet deal! Shouldn't last long.

Lol...
Yeah it is.
When one thinks about how dudes waited years for Oleg to get the folders & hardware in in the past...
Then, I'm pretty much giving away a hundred dollar bill & free SVD foregrip.
Someone's gonna be stoked, for sure.

[SVD FOLDER, ALL FOLDER FOLDER HARDWARE, AND SVD FOREGRIP $400.00]

This is the best AK parts deal on the internet currently.

SVD FOLDER, ALL FOLDER FOLDER HARDWARE (buttons pins springs front catch etc..), AND SVD FOREGRIP $400.00

I'll even throw in an MD Arms Molot grip on me, to sweeten the deal.

 

No need to wait forever for them to get in stock somewhere.

The set up's brand new and ready to ship here.

If you want to see what the builds with this furniture end up looking like, see this thread.

 

You make the parts to attach the foregrip if you go that route.

I need $400 for the package, I will not seperate.

It's already well over $100.00 cheaper than the rear stock alone.

God bless.

Paul M. Pawlowski

 

(first post OR PM is first in line. If one guy flakes, next gets it, etc...)

[Porting today]

After having problems with the Winchester Universal, I'm going to start opening the ports one at a time. Drove the pin for the detent and cleaned all the chips out of the hole that was causing the detent to hang up. (also stoned the back of the detent as the chips tore it up a bit)

 

Now my problem.......I've hammered and hammered, trashed my 1/16" pin punch, tried both sides, and that lower pin won't budge a micron! I'm going to try Mouse Milk penatrant to free it up. ANY OTHER IDEAS???

The "problem" pin in my personal experience, if there is a problem pin, will usually be the lower pin.

 

Now, I always get it started with a thick, pointed center-punch, then, once it breaks loose I start drifting it with a 3/32" punch that I thinned down a touch.

(the punches I use to disassemble bolts)

 

If the top pin is an issue, and I've run into this twice... It was because they started drilling from one side, but then seemed toi figure out they were screwing up and were about to breech the inside of the barrel, so then they drilled from the other side, and made the two holes meet, but the hole was slightly crooked.

Then they got the top pin to go all the way through, bending it in the middle, which made it nearly impossible to get out.

I had to hot-wrench (oxy-gas with a Victor #1 tip on the gas block where the pin goes) on those 2 to get the top pins out. Heating the gas block expanded the steel, loosening the pins on those 2. Replacing the detent spring is needed after doing that one though, because the heat will ruin it.

I wouldn't recommend the average DIY'er trying that though lest they go overboard and warp the inside of the gas block.

"To thy own abilities be true."

 

After much profanity & heat, the top pin in those cases comes out, but it's bent & there's no way it's going back in, so I harden a piece of 3/32" 4140 welding rod to make a new pin & hammer it in after porting, then it's all good.

 

Took me forever the first time I came across the top pin issue, and I broke 4 punches figuring it out.

[What do you do if you are sold a non 922r compliant Saiga from FFL?]

Just because someone pays a couple hundred bucks for an FFL license doesn't mean their heads aren't up their asses.
Check out the 922R subforum on this site to see if YOU are in complience with the mags and parts you intend to use.
Don't trust internet people's opinions when it's YOUR ass on the line.
Just a friendly word of advise.
Pauly.

[bolt carrier damage....]

With regards to torch welding a carrier, the steel has both chromium and magnesium, both of which are there to prevent oxidation.
It's not quite as resistant as a full on stainless such as 308 or 316, but still, it resists being torch welded because of this.

I've tested the theory with a decent torch, if a Victor J-100 with #1 Victor tip is decent in people's eyes...I always heard Victor was about as good as one gets. My tip makes a very sharp point, but regardless of heat, it just doesn't make a good puddle.
Sure, heat something up enough and the steel will melt, but it just doesn't make for a controllable puddle, so it's just not the most ideal way to go about it for proper fusion.

If it were mine, I'd stick weld it using 3/32" e309L @ 80 amps with a threaded brass rod screwed in WAY before gas welding it if one lacks tig.

 

But there's always multiple ways to skin a cat.

[Pros and cons of a VCH on saiga 12]

lsch ask you self when is last time you laid you gun on ground to get dirt in, on it or dragged it through pea gravel or buried it to get anything in receiver at over $1000-up.

 

if your right hand shooter lsch seems natural that reaching over top weapon with your left hand.... my op.

 

Every time I shoot it seems.

I shoot up forest roads which are gravel. I have no bench, so if driving a sedan, there's only so much room on the hood, then that gets used for loading so rifles tend to get leaned against the car, then Murphy & gravity tend to take it from there.

 

Everybody has their own purpose for each weapon in mind and everything's a trade off unless one wants to spend a grand for a mod. What's best for one might not be best for another. It's like Laptop vs Desktop applications.

Me personally, I like stuff as idiot-proof as possible.

The way I see it, is she might be a range toy now, but who knows where she'll end up in the course of her life or what I may need her to endure.

[So am I under-gassed?]

 

I never could get the gun to cycle and when I put a bore light inside the barrel, the ports looked clean and symmetrical so i figured it may be the bolt sticking. Got the bolt done by Pauly and it is doin the same thing. Pauly included three port cleaners/gauge wires so I checked the ports without removing the gasblock. It is a 4 port. The .07 wire fits in the front-most port snug and at about a 45 degree angle. I couldn't squeeze it into either of the side ports but it did appear that they aren't blocked. The rear port is not physically covered, but it is pointed directly into the gas block. Are these ports too small? Is the gas block hole too small?

 

(edit for missing comma)

This thread outlines an easy port obstruction procedure.

Optimal size for a 4-porter is 4 at .077" or so which is where a 5/64th bit lands you.

Also the extractor slot fix is quick easy, and can help a lot.

 

Also, if a weapon has a UTG-brand quad, they've been known to clamp down on the S-12 gas systems and negatively effect cycling.

Additionally, while you're at the gas block, ensure it's not canted. This can cock the carrier slightly causing a minor bind at the beginning of the cycle, and that can cause issues due to the power loss.

 

Something else to watch out for, is if one has a wide optic like an Eotech over the ejection port, shells can bounce off them and right back into the chamber. (look for the shells making nicks on the underside of the optic if that's the case)

There's other things to look for, but that's a good start.

[How long have you been waiting?]

I must be lucky. I haven't had to wait for anything until I took the Ladys .38 in for a trigger job. That took a week. I have a good supply of the ammo I need, and my local shop never really ran out, and didn't raise the prices more than $3, per 50 rounds of Hornady V-max in .223. It went from $23 to $26.

Perfect storm, Brother.

At the end of summer, there's a rush in the biz, then there's a Christmas rush, then a Christmas-gift money rush, then a tax season rush.

 

This year, it was coupled with a "Biggest panic buy in US history" rush.

All the while, I revampped my charger mount to be built all the way to the carrier to make an indestructible VCH, which requires over twice the time and milling to bring it to properly finished so the setup looks factory, with all the milling and all.

Add to that moving the whole shit & shebang 50 miles south, totaling my only (at the time) working car, and a few other things, and I got in a nightmarish game of catch-up.

It fuckin' sucks bro.

Thing is, My quality comes from a seemingly manic state where I'm in this zone, completely inspired to make shit nobody's ever imagined could be available for the price I offer it at, and stuff that takes me out of the zone, just kills me.

 

I don't look at the forum much any more, because I don't want to screw my production up for the former reasons.

 

Stuff will get back to where it was, but for now, I have to grit my teeth and get back there.

Makes being a wage-slave again tempting at times, only having to work 8 hours a day and all, then being able to zone out for 16 hours sound awesome sometimes... But then again, I think about having to deal with the whole having to deal with the "fat bitch on a power trip or PMS" shit or "dude who slept on the couch" as a supervisor thing, and I'm like "No, fuck that. Push through and beat the backlog".

 

It's a bitch running one's own show with no safety net, and trying to estimate.

I can do really cool shit with steel, but I can't guess or estimate to save my life.

 

[Tromix will be discontinuing all MKA parts]

OPEN MARKET!!!!!!!!!!
Calling everyone with a CNC!
(damn I wish I had one....)

 

Once again, Tony's still the Godfather of nearly everything that's a mag-fed 12 gauge.

["Extractor Slot Fix"]

Bumping to the top, because this seems to be some vital knowledge that's becoming lost as of the last couple years...

 

Peace & Grace;
Pauly

[How long have you been waiting?]

 

 

I sent Saiga 12 parts for my wife's Saiga months ago to Paulie's Glass Bolt. 3 weeks ago I asked if they would be done so I could go to Shoot out of state. He said NO PROBLEM Well there is a problem as I never received the parts and no word from him. Do not do business with this guy.

 

Have some balls and use your main account. Shill...

 

Keep this shit in Pauly's Business section.

 

Have to agree with you on the shill account,but business members control the content in their section. CSS has deleted some of my stuff in the past.

 

Lately, there've been a few guys trying to hurt my business out of spite. They've been trying to turn each and every one of my ads into hit pieces.

I let it ride before stuff got back rolling, but I'm just not letting it stand right now.

Shit's rolling fast, the wait times that came from the Obummer-rush aren't going to be there for the next guys, and I'll be damned if I let someone screw the rest of my clients who I STILL actually need to ship their parts to at close to $20.00 a pop.

 

When these guys get their stuff back and realize the level of quality they got for their chump-change, they realize what took a while.

If one's used to average work, they get confused. The connoisseurs and those politically aware, or those who know how the gun business cycle, combined with the biggest panic buy in US history works, know what's up.

 

Shit happens, and it happened, and for that I apologies, but by absolutely no means am I "sorry".

I am not the slightest bit sorry for being part of the group leading the charge against unconstitutional legislation on the Federal, State and Local levels, and I'm not the damndest bit sorry for my refusal to cut corners and just ship out shit work to those who don't know any better, just to clear my shop out, nor for the delays that came from the re-engineering of my charging handles which made them the HANDS-DOWN, strongest, and only indestructible handles in the industry.

 

The Customer's always right....

Yes... They are.

So yeah, if you don't want to do business with me and get the highest quality availible the world over, by all means, PLEASE go elsewhere.

I have quality clients, who want quality work, and THEY'RE the ones I aim to please.

The McDonald's crowd who thinks time is everything, and shit workmanship in the name of second best is acceptable, do not appeal to me to have as clients & I've TRIED to scare them away.

I'm not just someone who ships parts out because of some imaginary timeline. My work actually exceeds the pictures you see, rather than falling short of them and this can be read hundreds of times all across the internet.

Damn near every piece I ship is a work of art, and touches my soul when I look at it as I wrap it before I ship, then they about make my clients creme their shorts when they unwrap the pieces and see what they got for what for all intents and purposes is chump-change for the time it took to do the work to the level of perfection they receive.

 

This will NEVER change.

I had half a mind to offer a half-ass service for the McDonald's crowd, but even though my half-ass would still be better than the VAST majority of work available, it would STILL have my name on it, and EVERY piece with Saiga-12 Pauly's name on it WILL be WELL above the quality of what anybody else can EVER have a wet dream about delivering, so that Idea went out the window moments after the idea sparked.

 

There's NO room for compromise.

My shit's going to be the BEST available, regardless, be it my VCH joints, my profile consistencies, my finish combinations, and how everything's meticulously engineered to work together. <--- that's a period.

 

If some people have WROL fantasies & think they're right about to fight off the hoards so they're shittin' cindeblocks sideways... Seriously get a battle rifle like an AK, FAL or AR & learn to shoot the gun. Every man should have one anyhow.

They'll keep you alive longer than an S-12 in today's world if you know how to use them correctly.

Otherwise, if you're just trying to screw me because you're impatient and wanna go plinkin' sooner... Well, I don't really know what to say about that, other than NEVER go through me again.

I'll refuse to accept the delivery of your package if I ever see your name again.

I'm just not the right shop for you, and you're just not the right client for my shop.

 

But you know what the real bitch is?

I screwed countless people because I tried to cater to some people who pissed and moaned. That's MY fault, and for that, I am sorry.

I ain't doing that shit ANY more. ANY more!

If someone wants to pitch a bitch, go for it. Knock yourselves out. Type there in your tightie-whities with your ass in a lay-z-boy until your fingertips wear off, you get gangrene and can't ever even pull a trigger again, but I'm NOT screwing the good clients over just because someone bitches. Screw that.

The good clients are the ones who come back anyhow, because they've been around, and they KNOW the difference between some of these so-called professionals that one finds all over internet land, and Pauly's Steelin' CUSTOM FABRICATION.

I didn't build my name and reputation as a bait and switch thing to get lots of orders and ship shit work once my name was built like some in the game do.

I built my shit as the best, and will settle for nothing less.

 

Regards;

 

Pauly

[Removing front sight]

Hows about the Texas Weapons Systems Dogleg plus a little Dremel-fu or milling?

[Pros and cons of a VCH on saiga 12]

Do you know the name of the company that makes that top cover? It sure would go nice on my s308.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otwCn7gEsDA

 

 

 

 

 

Since were all at it. How about we get some picture poss of peoples VCH and it was worth having done or not.

 

Unless I can believe it will be a functional upgrade and not just for looks then I wont get it. It appears the LSCH is more functional than a RSVCH.

 

I think a mosin nagant bolt handle would make an outstanding LSCH or a VCH......hell even a RSCH....lol.

I honestly think that would look really weird on a saiga 12.

 

I personally prefer the LSCH over any of the vert ones. I have one I did a few years ago on my S-12 and it really is effortless to charge the weapon with or without an optic mounted on my railed dust cover. Also I now have the option to use either hand to easily charge it, without having to tilt it. Control hand stays on the grip, trigger finger ready... gun stays situated and aimed at the target. Looks better too IMO.

 

Youre killin me man. A lsch is becoming more appealing to me now.

Mosin Nagant Sniper bent Style bolt inverted for a vertical charging handle would look great with the polished up bolt carrier, they even have the angled ones. Otherwise a regular MN bolt for a left or right side charging handle with a polished bolt carrier, I think I might try it. I wonder if anyone has tried this? Some mosin nagant buffs might have some words for anyone that did. Just some thoughts.

 

 

 

My cousin did this. The metals did not like to stay joined.

 

ahhh...That makes sense.

 

 

WELD WITH 309L.

EVERYFUCKINGBODY!

It's specifically formulated for welding dissimilar steels, and the low carbon draws carbon from the base metals, which makes for a more gradual transition.

The carrier's steel, 30XPA is CLOSE, not exactly, but CLOSE to a chrome manganese.

The ideal handles to match the carrier composition, like Pauly's Piston, or the latest Tromix Galils are made from 416 SS & weld PERFECTLY to the carrier with 309L. It's the toughest combo you can get with these carriers.

It lays down smooth, and is easy to use to make non porous welds.

Trust me on this one people. I've studied this shit extensively and consulted several metallurgists & engineers who deal with shit a whole lot harder core than chargers to come up with my process, including some from Hobart and Radnor.

I'm not talking out my ass here.

I'm not worried about "trade secrets", because I know there's not a damn soul who'll screw themselves bu building them up like I do, then milling them down, so I'm ALWAYS going to be on top of this market. I'm just trying to spread this info so MAYBE some of the people will pass the word, being as I rarely get to the forums any longer, and I'm tired of doing repairs that at FIRST, in PMs I think are going to be simple, but then I wind up spending 2 days fixing some botched abortion.

 

Take it for what ya' will.

 

Pauly.

[Romanian 762x.39 75 round drum & pouch; 109.99 shipped (just dropp]

One guy's been asking half the morning, if he doesn't take it, it's yours, so I guess it's sold pending funds.

I'll give you a heads up if he falls through NMO

 

ETA;
Sold.

[Pros and cons of a VCH on saiga 12]

Nah.
Carrier's different.
It won't work on the S-12 like it will on the regular rifle.

[Pros and cons of a VCH on saiga 12]

Couldn't find any threads about this when I searched so here I am.

 

Debating whether or not I would like to get this done.

 

Just want to know what some opinions are about this.

 

 

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

I meant to say the chaos titan extended quad rail

 

http://i.imgur.com/IiDnCh.jpg

 

Do you thinks there enough room for one? I cant really tell since I've never seen in person a saiga with a LSCH.

 

If there is I might just do that. This is nerve racking trying to decide.

 

I don't have any experience with the titan. But after browsing pictures I'm thinking a LSCH will work. It's on the same horizontal plane of the original charging handle, just the opposite side. My thought process is since there's clearance for the original charging handle there has to be clearance for a LSCH. Makes sense don't it?

 

 

I will shoot cameron and pauly a message to see if this will work. If so I am doing it. I know with my set up reaching over is a hassle thats why I was debating on a angled VCH but let me see what they say and if it works LSCH it is.

 

Would still like to see peoples killer designs though.

 

Update* Just got confirmation from Cameron that a left side charging handle will work with the chaos titan rail.

 

Going with the left side. Now comes the hard part. Picking a good style. any ideas?

 

 

Pros; Quicker charging while keeping your right hand on the PG.

Cons; Make sure it gets done right and can take severe abuse.

 

 

For left side chargers, Tony's making the Galil in 416 now, so they'll hold up excellent when bare & polished in IceRack just like Pauly's Piston does.

 

Whatever you go with make sure it's done right.

Whether a vertical, or left side charger, reinforce the weld.

By that, I mean on a vertical, I build up the base all the way to the carrier then mill it down, to increase the base's bulk 100% making it able to take the torsion stresses of severe abuse, then I run the joint up the handle. like this, while looking like it came from the factory with the handle.

 

 

 

 

 

They hold up very well without the build up, but I'm looking at the long term, and thinking about drunk dudes firing a ton of 3" magnum .00 buck on setting 2 of the factory plug out of a full length gas system SBS... (it happens)

I pretty much want to ensure no breakage can possibly happen, so I re-engineered the whole shit & shebang.

 

I'm building them up for the extended horizontal chargers as well for the same reasons;

 

 

 

And yeah, for a Titan with optics, my standard mount for a VCH is canted outward like this, so everything clears and it's quick to charge;

 

 

Then on left side chargers, I build it up just slightly rearward so I get more than just a butt-weld, as the shock can wear on it if people beat the heck out of the weapons while accidentally forgetting to change gas settings, like this;

 

 

 

My personal preference is the verticals.

I just personally don't like the open gun aspect of the big open slot on the left side of the weapon that can't be closed.

If it's dropped in pea gravel, pea gravel can enter the gun.

If the same thing's done with a vertical right side charger and the safety's on, no large debris can enter.

 

That being said, the best of both worlds would be a devorced FAL left side charger with the cover, but that's a whole lot of money because it's a ton of work.

I don't do those.

 

Depending on what you decide I can add either to your existing order. That's a non issue, but if you opt for the left side charger, you'll likely want to send me your dust cover so I can mill it right.

[my room is a pigsty]

lol... add a 10 step polishing station, 2 blasting cabinets, one of which is dedicated to glass bead, then heat treat with a number 8 rosebud on a Victor HD-310 pushing oxy acetylene so you get that cloud of soot every time you ignite it....
Nothing like an eighth of an inch of dust over the WHOLE shop, and a pile of lint over half of it..

Thankfully now I have a clean-room section for everything I don't need right in the main area, but still... Sometimes I look around after a run in utter amazement at how quick everything gets coated.

[Romanian 762x.39 75 round drum & pouch; 109.99 shipped (just dropp]

Bump.
Price just dropped $30.00 from $139.99 to $109.99

[replacing the factory fire control group]

That other piece is the overtravel limiter.
You can mill the right side of the Tapco disconnector down and make it work, or just go with the stock Tapco.
If you try to re-use it, fit it properly so everything moves freely, and you have decent disconnector engagement, because the tip of Tapco disconnectors will eventually wear down a touch after several thousand rounds of powerful ammo, and if it's not good engagement to begin with, when it wears down, eventually the hammer will not be caught and will follow the carrier, bolt, and FP back up into battery..... Not. Good. and I've seen some who really should know better screw up on that aspect.

That being said, in the V-12, you really need to profile the Tapco Hammer down to .0555" when measured perpendicular to the hammer face with calipers over the "O" in the word Tapco, which is molded onto the side of the hammer.

(I didn't touch on the bump, or axis length, as those aspects should, by now be common knowledge, but just for shits & grins... No front bump, and hammer axis at 1.01" for accommodation of the V-12's LRBHO)

 

God bless, & good luck.
Pauly

[Gas block with rails. Any plans to offer a reweld service?]

^^^ or better yet, do that above. lol.
It'll be quicker, that's for sure.

[Gas block with rails. Any plans to offer a reweld service?]

Anyone heard of a shop that will weld on a rail to the gas block? I figured there would be enough people out there that would like to get their VEPR-12 as close to the correct configuration as possible thus there must be a market for this.

 

If the gas block was pulled and pressed onto a jig also acting as a heat sink, then a piece of steel rail that was already cut to length and cut to clear the raised pin bosses could be welded on. After that remove from the jig, clean up the welds and refinish the gas block. Finally press the complete gas block back in place.

Pop your gas block off as-per the instructions here and send it over with a two inch piece of steel rail.. $75.00. & it'll look like it came as one piece.

​It'll take a couple months though due to a backlog, otherwise, just take the two pieces to a local machine shop that has a decent weldor.

Use 309L. It welds to dissimilar metals very well.

[S12 Bolt Damage? (Pics)]

lol.
Re-read the O.P. and saw you said it was getting better.
I'll leave the troubleshooting info for the next guy just in case there's someone with a mysterious extraction issue that's killing them..
Bolt face's fine.
I wouldn't worry about it.
The hang up you experience while chambering is the overpowered extractor spring climbing its ramp by the chamber. Some are very strong, some are very weak. The springs are consistant, but depths of indentation in the bolt's head, and the extractor hole differ, so the spring can be tougn if both holes are on the shallow side. Tuning the extractor like I do to the units in GlassBolt would reduce that, but it's really a non-issue for the most part. It happens on the S-12 because the extractor has to get out of the way by riding up the ramp. It's a rimmed shell thing.
You don't notice it on the AKM, because the rifle extractors don't have to be worked so hard, and just clip over the casing as they chamber. No ramp for them to ride up.

[S12 Bolt Damage? (Pics)]

Got your PM asking to check out the thread.
That dent on the bolt's normal, or at least it happens on many which run verry good. Half the pieces in my shop have it.
Without looking at the gun I'd GUESS your chamber might be just a cunthair small.
This is just a guess from you saying you have to slam the hell out of the charger to get it to extract.

One comp shooter a while back that I deal with had a similar issue.
His firearm would cycle some ammos like Remmy high-brass great, but he thought it was locking up with Estate low brass (steel). Go figure... That was the shit he decided to buy 3,000 rounds of... lol.
He was kicking the darn thing to get the shell out before he came my way. On a side note, I've gotten a bit of charging handle business from people who thought a hammer against the charger would help them get it "unlocked" so I'd personally advise against it... Nah, on second thought, use a 12 lb sledge... I need the money.

Turned out his chamber was just slightly undersized. That's going to require a smith pulling the barrel and boring the chamber just a tiny bit if you don't want it to be a dremelled hackjob.
To check, next time you're out shooting, take a very small flat head screw driver with you.
If it locks up like you described, lift the extractor off the rim of the shell and see if when the extractor is lifted, you can easily pull the charger back.
If you can, but you have to use a ram-rod to get the spent shell out of there after removing your bolt & carrier, then that's your issue.
An undersized chamber is VERY rare, so I'd advise strongly against everyone reading this to just run down that route. But it does happen, so it's part of my personal troubleshooting checklist.

 

Also, if you messed with the embutment in the carrier that the bolts' 3rd lug rides in, and your bolt & carrier have been eating eachother up on the 1st angle the lug transitions on during it's rotation into locking up, that'd do it too, but it'd likely be a consistent failure. (or it will be consistent in the not too distant future as the center lug eats up the carrier embutment further)
Good luck.

Peace and grace.

Paul M. Pawlowski

[Still wont cycle 3 Dram reliably]

Just a suggestion from "the other side", but if you're already sending the firearm to Robert for some tuning on the internals, have him do everything else as well.
Working on stuff after someone else has can be expensive depending on the first person's skill and level of understanding of what they're looking at.
Furthermore, we have systems, all of which have differing aspects & shop specs with regards to modifications which work in conjunction with other components we tune, so a client adding a wild card can be annoying at best, and costly at worse.
It's really easy for one to think they see something, when in fact they're missing something else which contributes to their issues.