Paulyski
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Posts posted by Paulyski
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If there's anything I can purchase in the US rather than a foreign nation, I will buy US. Period.
It disgusts me that the best hope we have are fools that don't know that our federal government is SUPPOSED to be financed exclusively by import tarrifs.
This so called "free trade" bullshit is only a "free-for-all" buffet on OUR market.
Any second rate drug dealer knows that a market holds more value than a product, because if one has no market, they can only use so many of X product.
So my answer is hell-no.
I'll put Russian furniture on my S-12, because it works, but I WILL NOT CONTRIBUTE to those selling my brother's jobs and futures out.
And that's exactly what they're doing regardless of how they attempt to justify farming out production to foreign lands, much less building factories in foreign lands.
Fuck them, as far as I'm concerned.
Our miniscule export to import ratio is breaking the back of our own dollar.
Asian steel is absolute shit regardless of what a company's engineers demand, and any boilermaker or anyone who's ever used a phillips head screwdriver from Harbor Freight knows this.
Fuck that. Our dollar's dropping in part because our own sold us out, and we're ending up paying the same fees for cheaply made shit than we used to pay for quality goods.
So no. I wouldn't buy shit from Korea. North or south.
The easiest way to tell a mechanically clueless excuse for a guy, is if he's driving a Hyundai.
Sorry if anybody reading this bought a Hyundai and takes offence at that statement, but the truth's the truth.
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I haven't been welding long, but I do well at it for what I need to get done and I recognize my limitations. HK sights and vertical charging handles are not my speed, so I've never tried either. If I were interested in either, I'm sure I could find a way to do it that was sound and looked proper. I have seen a charging handle come off and pop someone in their lip (I didn't do the work and don't ask). After seeing that, I decided that I would never do the welded vertical charging handle mod for anyone, for any reason, ever. Welding is different in some way every time, even if only slightly, and there are factors outside of the welder's control. Some people like the look and convenience, but the potential for failure exists. Understand that.
I'll gladly take credit for that.
The video you did years ago when that happened was part of the long term motivation that brought mine to where they currently are.
Currently the owner of that gun is running an autoplug, runs a bit more gas than 3 @ 093, shoots the gun often with all types of ammo and it's held up great, even though it's an older style of mount from before I really started building them up like I do now, right?
I've had 3 failures. One was Menace 667's, the one you speak of where the first, and last mid shaft weld that I'd done on a handle broke, the other was the first (my prototype piece) Racegun dogleg that I did, and the last was a left side charger before revamping the process on those... (Never weld to the most convenient part on the left side of the carrier when doing a left side charger. It's a but weld and gets too much shock. the best way to weld those is fillet welds and inside corner welds to build it up like this) ;
I personally dislike the left side chargers because gravel sized debris can enter if dropped while one is running, being as it's an open-gun design though.
As for the verticals, they CAN be made indestructible to the point that they'll outlast the rest of the carrier and rear trunnion if the gun's abused, but it takes a heck of a lot of time.
Posters above are correct about the larger connecting area to the carrier being key to durability. It's a different handle, therefore it must be completely re-engineered, built right and heat treated correctly. Here's some examples of increasing the mass 100% each way to be able to take the torsion stresses;
The only issue is IT TAKES A HECK OF A LOT OF TIME TO DO EACH ONE, and to have them come out looking like they came from the factory with the handle takes even longer.
So much time, that it has about screwed me business-wise.
But the setup will last forever, or at least until someone abuses the gun & hammers the rear trunnion off or cracks the female end of carrier where the op-rod screws in, and at that point, the weapon won't work, but these handles will darn sure still be there in tact.
They can be made to last forever under all conditions, it's just a real bear and I'd venture to say that out of every mod we can do on these guns, it's the hardest one to do correctly.
Milling or turning stuff down is easy. One just needs the machines. Engineering then fabricating something like this that'll stand up to serious torsion stresses under abuse, out of the correct raw steel so the weld material blends well with the properties of both the carrier's steel and the handle's steel & fuses strong, then heat treating it right and finishing it right is a technically complex process. Especially when welding to 4140 if one wishes to eliminate the tendency for cold cracking.
I'd say 3 failures early on in the process development stages, then never having another single failure after hundreds more, including several on full length gas system SBS's is the proof in the pudding that they definitely can be made to hold up to normal usage, and even abuse.
YMMV of course.
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Had a bunch of fires and a bunch of setbacks over the last year..
Order got all FUBAR.
That's why I'm stopping taking any more work for a month or so. So I'm not responding to stuff all day, and I can just hammer stuff out.
Once the shop is clear, stuff will be QUICK, but stuff's gotten perpetual at this point. I never caught up from last year's after summer rush, so this is kind of a restructuring thing to take what I now know about the yearly cycles and make a more efficient system.
I just need to clear stuff first.
Right now my head's spinning so fast, I talk to three people, and get them all confused with eachother because I have no time to organize. It's putting out fire after fire.
It has to end.
I have to not be looking at computer screens, and talking on phones, and just work.-
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I spoke to Paul on the phone in late September and agreed to send him my bolt/carrier and fire control group for his standard "Glass Bolt" + trigger work. I shipped the parts on September 30th, signature required, and my check was cashed in early October. That is the last I have heard from him and he has not responded to a couple of e-mails or a voice mail I left for him this year. Does anyone know what his status is? It has been about 4 months now since he cashed my check.
Thanks,
Tim
Someone alerted me to this thread.
Hello Tim.
I'm about to get to a bunch of emails. I'm unsure the day a specific piece will ship, but would be quite surprised if yours isn't in the current run. Everybody wants theirs equally, including builders who do massive orders & an increasing number of Sheriff's departments over the last few months. Between builders, and service weapos, they're half my business.
I am going to place a 1-2 month moratorium on taking incoming orders starting at 11:59pm PST this Sunday to catch up, because there always seems to be SOMETHING that happens when I think I can catch up any other way.
I get to emails about twice a week. I do miss some occasionally though in the chaos.
My fees have also raised for the first time ever, to be more commensurate to the time involved for the work done, so that will thin the heard in the future.
Sorry guys. I had to. I'm finding myself in an endless cycle of redundancy.
I can't hire anybody to do any of the milling, welding or polishing work because they can mess stuff up royally if not done JUST right.
I can't trust anybody to inventory, because if they mix a part with another set, that results in a fiasco. Same with even filling out shipping labels if they write a digit wrong. So pretty much all I can have a guy do when I bring them on, is media blast parts and clean the shop, but I have to babysit to an extent there too, to make sure nothing goes wrong.
I've always been the kind of guy who was happy just "getting by", so when I started the company, my goal was to offer the average guy with an average job, the opportunity to get something really, really nice...
Well.. I've kind of figured out that there's a reason that some stuff is cheap, and some is expensive. Funny how the real world has a habit of crushing optimistic idealism.
So, yes, my apologies to those who slipped through the cracks.
I'll make it worth your while.
Once I clear the shop and begin taking orders again, I can get back to a really quick turn, but I'm just going to have to charge appropriately.
God bless.
Paul M. Pawlowski
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So can anyone elaborate on what the negative effects are with this mod or does everyone just know its somehow bad.......? I only ask because I did this mod to my carrier and it totally smoothed out the opening and closing of the bolt action on my gun. Did not even have to touch the actual bolt on my gun because the carrier rounded edges helped so much. I guess I just don't understand why it is "SO BAD" when it helped my gun cycle better? Maybe I did not remove enough metal to be in the "bad zone"? Lol.
A picture is worth a thousand words.....
The repair after you shoot it a whole lot and it eats itself up until it jams is worth about $300.00
(And, no. I'm seriously NOT interested in taking on another one of those jobs. Sorry, they're a royal PITA with all the live fire testing/readjustment & I don't have the time)
Kind of a waste of time and money IMHO, especially since the resistance people are generally trying to get rid of there, is actually the extractor climbing it's slot at the chamber...
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What are good products to finsh a stock in russian red?Also how to thanks
http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/61898-russian-red-akm-wood-fitting-staining/
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I was looking over threads in the Saiga12 section and saw a few posts about bolt carrier and oprod breakage. Most look like they were caused by bad heat treatment of the carrier, but I believe it was Pauly who mentioned that he also had noticed many of the op rods weren't bottomed out in the carriers and opined that this was causing breakage (of the front part of the carrier), since the threads and sidewalls were taking all the force.
Does anyone else think it might be worth the effort to drill out the dimples, remove the op rod, and ensure that it's bottoming out in the carrier? Maybe adding a spacer to make up for any gap?
Since there aren't any spares to be had, I feel like I want to protect my investment.
I just do that to protect S-12s that are overgassed, but I'm doing it with a longer op-rod, so the over all length remains unchanged..
They're actually supposed to have a little play in them.
The V-12 is a better gas system design than the S-12 in the regard that the puc's designed to center the op-rod and not get a huge running start before slamming into the op-rod.
So far as I know, nobody's reported any issues with a V-12 yet. I won't be changing anything on my personal V-12.
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I'd rather get a stock one, and tune it myself personally.
If I got it, I'd first check the ports, and if they're bigger than .078,
Yep... been there, done that, don't want to again. It's what you do it seems, but I enjoy shooting the guns way more than dicking with them
I emailed the guy last night, he said 4 ports at 5/64. So, seems like it's good to go. I put a bid in on it, we'll see where it goes I guess!
Well then I definitely wouldn't buy it, because the guy's a liar, or a fool & I wouldn't want to trust either's work when making explosions happen next to my face.
The ad says it's 4 ports at 9/32" which would be .28" (over 1/4" EACH), which is unheard of. It'd be absolutely insane and would break the thing or send the carrier into your forehead if you fired one or two 3" magnum rounds out of it.
I'm pretty sure (or at least hope like all hell) that he meant 4 ports at 3/32 which is 25% more gas than the most that reputable builders will put on a gun that they don't tell people is purely a racegun or low recoil 2 3/4" buckshot gun, and NOT a gun designed for 3" magnum loads repeatedly.
Then him telling you 5/64ths, would mean he KNOWS he overgassed it, but is lying directly to you.
They had to do 4 at 3/32, because the builder doesn't know how to tune the gun properly.
I'm betting he put the poly choke on there because even after drilling the shit out of it, he still couldn't get it to run bulk pack with the auto plug reefed all the way down, so he used the poly choke to add barrel length back.
Then in the most classic part of the ad, the guy's saying "Earth Brown and factory black TwoTone finish (meant to flake and chip with hard use for a lot-of-character look later on)"
Which translates to; "I don't know how to prep to save my life or I was just too lazy, so I cleaned it off with break fluid and spray painted the damned thing because it was looking like shit, but even I, the guy who painted it know the shit's going to flake off given the slightest amount of flex or abrasion"
Yeah....
lmao.
Seriously, thank the Lord if you get outbid.
It only takes a few hours worth of work to get these things running like a raped ape without overgassing them if one hits all the trouble spots.
All the information's on the forum.
That gun COULD run the auto plug with 3 ports at the size I'm pretty sure he's trying to say if he'd done his resistance reduction right.
You seem excited, and I know it's easy to get into a buying frenzy, but that gun's a polished turd, brother.
Just be prepared.
At least if you do get it, DO get a CSS performance puc to reduce the running start the puc has before slamming into the op-rod due to the higher flow rate of the gas, and install a Tom Cole HD Op-rod, and fit it right, so it bottoms out in the carrier so over time if the SHTF & the gun's using all high powered rounds, the carrier won't end up splitting from the increased violence while cycling high powered loads because the builder lacked understanding of the platform.
I'm sure it could be made into a good gun for long term durability under heavy use, but as it sits, it's like a POS car that got a new Earl Scheib paintjob, and by looking at the ad, it looks like the guy's a cheesy used car salesman type trying to justify his incompetence.
Good luck to the guy. Someone will buy it, but your thread asks how much it's worth, and seriously... I wouldn't pay as much as I would for a used, unconverted gun that a guy told me right to my face didn't run for shit the first time he took it out, so he just put it in the back of the safe and went back to his 870.
At least then I would know the dude likely didn't fuck as much up.
I mean it's your money, and true, most of these likely won't see battle, but if they do, it'd be nice if they were years long durable under the stresses of the more deadly rounds.
Anyhow, you asked, I answered.
Good luck with your purchase.
P.S.
Don't message the guy and tell him his typo on the ports.
That part alone will ensure nobody who knows the guns will trust the guy, and if you really want it, you'll have less competition.
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It looks to be a low end basic conversion with a DIY TG & plastic plugs that any hack can do.
Maybe the ports are drilled, that could be good, could be bad, depending on if they over-gassed it to get it to run like many hacks do.
I'd rather get a stock one, and tune it myself personally.As for what it's worth, I'd say the price of the gun + parts tops. Maybe a touch less.
I wouldn't pay more for the labor due to the uncertainty of it possibly being overgassed to get it to run the really light stuff with the auto plug.
I've just seen too many people who don't know their ass from a hole in the wall and just play the drill until it runs game. Many don't care about balance & building them for durability as well as dependability. They're just out to make a buck.
So yeah, it could go either way. Hard to tell.One good thing you can tell from the pictures is there's a lot of meat around the op-rod & not many threads are showing. That's a good thing for carrier durability. The female ends of the carriers very in depth at times.
But as for the whole "light use" part, the carrier's paint where they wear and the finish that's worn off on the pictured mag's spring steel feed lips say otherwise.
I'm guessing dude painted it to spruce it up and is seeing how much he can get during the panic due to how he worded his ad.
If I got it, I'd first check the ports, and if they're bigger than .078, install a Tom Cole HD Op-rod, making sure it bottomed out so the stresses aren't transferred to the threads of the female part of the carrier.-
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Get a fucking battle rifle!
Just get it, and a shitload of ammo.
Think about it.... If there's anything in this world that you'd really be bummed not to have if you needed it, what would be more urgent?
(here's a tip though... RPKs are actually going cheaper than Wasr AKs on Gunbroker at times, because non gun-people don't know what they are)
I shit you not on that one.
This is so helpful. Im going to troll gunbroker and I am going to call every FFL near me tomorrow. Pauly, thank you. If a ban goes through, are you still going to do glass bolt for all the weapons already in circulation?
Yeah.
Worse case scenario, I can do on-call psychiatric work monitoring violent psychotic patients 1:1 to fill in the gaps.
I kept my medical licences current because I like to remain versatile in a constantly shifting economy.
Might have to up my fees, but I kinda need to do that anyhow to slow business.
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Get a fucking battle rifle!
Just get it, and a shitload of ammo.
Think about it.... If there's anything in this world that you'd really be bummed not to have if you needed it, what would be more urgent?(here's a tip though... RPKs are actually going cheaper than Wasr AKs on Gunbroker at times, because non gun-people don't know what they are)
I shit you not on that one.
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Just a heads up... It CAN be welded.
I've welded on that part in the past.
E-309 fuses to it great.
Dinzag's likely a hell of a lot cheaper than the time it would take to rebuild then mill it though, so you lucked out. -
It's gonna be too damn cold for a t shirt here Saturday. I'll be wearing my jacket, though.
I'll likely end up wearing a hat that matches that jacket....
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I'll be wearing this one:
Thing's held up great over the years.
But alas.......
It'll be under the english professor wear.
For some odd reason, when debating people who act motivated by their emotions instead of logic, the tweed sportcoat seems to give one an edge due to their simple minded methods of perception.
I'm guessing that's why the look works well for me when I'm watching over them in Psych wards as well.
I look like their Psychiatrist, so they respond to that.-
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Sad truth is, nobody wants to have the job of Moderator on that topic. I hereby recommend two of the most politically savy members of this forum if they want to add this section and give it a special Moderator.
First, like I suggested the first time... Ragegal20
Then if there's a need to make it more rounded... Pauly
Did I seriously just suggest Pauly be put on staff???
I'm honored, but wouldn't really have too too much time. I've worked on and helped spearhead many campaigns, so could help with ideas, and guidance for a short peek each night or whenever I stop working at the end of my 16-20 hour work day or on breaks, other than that I'm not on the forum all that much other than to answer PMs, and an occasional alert
Racegal is a great choice, she has a level head and activism experience behind her, from what I gather Yakdung has activist background, and Guido definitely has activist background to spare. I'd be very surprised if Guido wouldn't be interested
But I'm talking more of a "get shit done" forum.
We have many other discussion forums for everything else, What I have in mind is more of a news, and action thing. Maybe even with a rule sticky specifically statint not to even look in the section if you're not Pro-2A.
The time for debate is over. The time for concessions is over.
News to help the people acquire arms & Ammo would be welcome (and draw a lot of people in), news about what attacks are happening from state to state, what retailers are on our side, which are NOT, that we can Boycott. etc..
A serious "What we can do about it section"
I put in a request earlier that the 922r section also include 2A...While that makes sense categorically... I think its too far down on the list for most people to get to it easily. The truth is that if it ain't easy to use and find... folks just won't use it and they'll just keep posting in General.
I think some sort of RKBA/Activism section actually in the 'WELCOME' frame up top would serve the forum best to prevent cluttering General Discussion and provide an effective place for members to discuss 2nd Amendment issues.
I'd say both would be right, however, it'd be really nice to see a 2-A specific section entitled something like "Second Amendment Support" or something like that.
To be clear, what I'm seeking is solely geared toward activism and alerts learning from other's experience, etc...
NOT a subforum for fighting among people's selves. A subforum where people would speak like they would in front of the city councilmen.
We're all in agreement on this already, I'm talking more of a Political Action Committee, or in this case, Political Action Forum (PAF)
Close to General discussion would be preferable. I'm sure people notice forum traffic spikes greatly during the crisis times like the present.
The way I see it, the more rallies we all attend and spread locally, the more physical network and REAL community building can be accomplished.
If a working model could be established, it could spread like wildfire across the internet, and translate into real life.
That greatly strengthens our cause in several ways.
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But I don't want it hidden away.
The discussion is GENERAL to the entire sport and industry.
I want everyone to participate.
Why go in a corner and preach to ourselves?
Just my thoughts.
That's the whole point.
NOT a hidden section. Our regular political is a black hole.
Right under General Discussion is where I'd personally like to see something like it.
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Technically the 2-A threats, can tend to get political, although they're purely CONSTITUTIONAL in nature.
An issue I see is the political forum we currently have, serves a purpose for debate, but because of some of the passionate debate, many people avoid the section.
I know I do.
If I debated in that place, one part of the forum, or another would hate me & I'd piss some of the people off so bad that they'd organize boycotts on my ass. lol
Our Rights under the Second Amendment are of universal importance to MANY people who identify with nearly every point in the political spectrum from total theologian, to Conservative, Liberal... Even self proclaimed Anarchists, & Communists support the People's Right To Keep & Bear Arms. Gay, Streight, Confused, whatever... There's Pro 2-A people with good input.
It's one of the last non totally polarized issues along with the First Amendment, and we're all in agreement that we'd eventually be having issues with 2-A rights with anybody offered to us to realistically be elected.So do people feel it would be warranted to add a Second Amendment Protection specific section?
A Civil section where activist minded people can avoid "I hate muslems" threads & the "How are you preparing for the end of the world that keeps getting pushed back 4 months at a time" threads as well as socialist vs libertarian type threads.
Not a section to speak about Ideology, but just how we can preserve our second Amendment rights and help others do the same.
Simply updates on;Who in what office specifically is doing what,
What can be done to advance our cause other than armed insurrection,
How to work with state & local legislation
etc...
An actual Second Amendment Specific section, that is civil, since for the most part we're in agreement could serve as a model for other forums to emulate and advance connections to actually use this medium more efficiently to protect the one thing we ALL have in common.But It must be safe for work. Our current general political section is locked for a very good reason.
Many could get in hot water if they browsed some of the content there while at their jobs.
I've heard talk, just figured a poll might gauge interest. I feel the section could be quite useful to the common cause. Social media is largely untapped with the gun community when it comes to actual activism for the most part, but we've seen the massive pressure it can place on power in the last year.
Thanks for your consideration guys.
Good luck in our future battles.-
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Can't see, to much bling
Blinded by the light are ya?
Sorry.
I'd just hack shit out and leave a bunch of tool marks, but I wouldn't want to step on anyone's toes.
That's just not the market I pursue.
I found a guy reselling my mods like the above for over $700.00, and he has repeat clients.
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Yeah, that's damn weird, being as receivers are generally stamped, therefore all the pin holes are cut as the receiver is stamped out, cut & bent, all in one step.
I know Tapco just recently redid their casting mold as evidenced by the new dip under the disconnector cast into the newer triggers. I tested 3 of the new triggers in 2 vepr-12's and came up with slight movement, but not even close to release. They release when the safety's fully removed in the S-12's but not the Veprs I tested on.
Next old style Tapco trigger hook I come across I'll check that to see if that's the variable, or if someone has more than 2 Veprs lying around if they wanted to measure and see if the axis pin holes are set even the slightest bit off between them, maybe they could cue in.
Maybe Molot's drilling them?
That being said, who in the hell completely disassembles a weapon with a round chambered, which is the only way the safety selector could raise up exceedingly high?
I mean, I could see if it's close being an issue on an S-12 with a drunk shooter, because if the RSB isn't milled right, the dust cover could pop up in the front when it's fired with magnum loads and the dust cover released in the front... But the V-12 is secured in the front by its rail, so I don't see it coming off on its own.
However, it's unfortunately not uncommon for people to install a hammer backward, so I suppose anything goes.
Rule of thumb, if one's I.Q. is lower than 60, don't mess with firearms.-
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hey Pauly, If you get a chance, can you post a picture of the hammer face after you did that? I ground a normal g2 to the same specs as my tromix g2 last weekend and was going to just throw that in my Vepr. But while I still have it out, I'd like to do the hammer face. I'd feel more comfortable not fucking it up if I had something visual to go by.
Just take your calipers and measure with the jaws of your calipers perpendicular to the face of the hammer over the "o" of the word TAPCO that's cast into the part.
Here's a pic of what the hammer face looks like when I do them;
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I strongly advise that if you use a tapco trigger group, that you either modify the disconnector, or modify your selector, the vepr rifles and shotguns come with a standard f/a capable selector, which when used in conjunction with a tapco trigger group can cause an accidental discharge when attempting to put the rifle on SAFE.******************************yes, either a slant cut needs to be put in the back of the disconnector, like the vepr-12 has factory, to allow the selector to swing past disconnector without pushing it forward and releasing the trigger, or the selector needs to be modified to clear the disconnector. Otherwise a rare but dangerous situation can occur, where when the safety is turned on, it can either swing past the topcover, or pop the topcover open, and swing too far causing the weapon to discharge.
Did you actually try (test) this on a Vepr-12?
Because I just made 3 Tapco-G-2's fit V-12's and I only had to bring the axis to 1.01" & the hammer's face to .555".
With the hammer held in the sear I was able to completely remove the safety and reinstall it without tripping the hammer.
The safeties on both V-12's I tested on were not modified in any way. Yes, it moved the fcg very slightly when I completely removed the safeties, but still came nowhere close to moving the sear far enough forward to release the hammer, which is what would cause the accidental discharge.
It didn't move anything one bit with normal use.
I'm guessing you tested on rifles or something other than the V-12?
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Hammer axis = 1.01" like the S-12. (if using the BHO)
Profile the [tapco] hammer face to .555" if you measure it with calipers at the "O" where Tapco is marked on the side.
Make it a smooth transition while you're at it.
Safety levers on 3 I just tested did NOT cause the the hammer to release, even when I completely removed the safety from the weapon & reiinstalled it while the hammer sat in the sear.When measuring (photos on page 1) the height that the hammer sits, measure it while the hammer is in the disconnector if you're going to measure. The hammer is in the disconnector as soon as the weapon's fired, it is not sitting in the sear. (trigger-hook)
Lastly, a more relevant measurement would be to measure how far down the hammer goes into the disconnector while the trigger's pulled. .555" should get you right about there.
Good luck.
Have a nice day.
Paul-
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Never got licensed as a civi though.
Romanian 762x.39 75 round drum & pouch; 109.99 shipped (just dropp
in AK Based Rifles & Shotguns (WTS / WTT)
Posted · Edited by Paul M. Pawlowski
Romanian 762x.39 75 round drum & pouch; 109.99 shipped. (just dropped price from $139.99)
The same package is going for $188.00 shipped the cheapest it can be found elsewhere at the moment, and this one's been fit so it fits all 762x39's
The rear has been fitted so it'll clip right into any AK or WASR. (not the locking tabs, but those parts to the side that're too big to fit in most WASRs)
(correction, it WILL NOT "clip right into" the SINGLE STACK WASRs)
It's VERY reliable.
I got my handguards smoking when bumpfiring with it and another, and it's never missed a round.
Please check & do not buy if illegal in your state.