kleypasp

I am considering moving the gas block forward another 1/2" but that will be a last resort. I am really hoping someone will help me out here with some good advice. (Where are Tony or Bob Ash)

That sounds easy enough, but that would mean I would have to cut the carrier back to the threaded area where the extension rod screws in. Then almost all of the threaded area would be gone. Not that I would need the threaded area, but it would not leave much of that part of the carrier that needs to go into the gas block.

I was not sure where to post this question. Moderator please remove it if is in the wrong section. I finally started my 10" build. I thought I had it planned out well but now I am not sure what to do with the carrier. I moved the gas block back 4 inches with 4 standard size gas ports. Can anyone tell me how to modify the carrier for a gun with the block moved back 4 inches? I read some of the Tromix posts and maybe I should have only moved it back 3-3/4 inches. But at this point I have already machined the barrel, drilled the ports and pressed the barrel back in. Any help would be re

I finally started my 10" build. I thought I had it planned out well but now I am not sure what to do with the carrier. I moved the gas block back 4 inches with 4 standard size gas ports. Can anyone tell me how to modify the carrier for a gun with the block moved back 4 inches? I read some of the Tromix posts and maybe I should have only moved it back 3-3/4 inches. But at this point I have already machined the barrel, drilled the ports and pressed the barrel back in. Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks.

I'm in. Thank you !!!

I will be going on a hog hunt soon and I want to use my S-12. Which is better to use when hunting hogs, slugs or buckshot??

Dawn dishwashing soap will take it out. scissors work best. GoJo hand cleaner will work well

1 Yes i bought it new 2 Yes it is converted 3 Yes I did it myself 4 Yes I would do it again it is very easy and there are many members that will help with any questions you have. 5 No Do it yourself.

My H&K sights are both, front and rear, silver soldered. They are solid as a rock, and silver soldering allows easy re-doing it if it needs to be removed or re-fastened for any reason. If done properly, once silver soldered, the sights aren't going anywhere. It's also a lot easier for someone not skilled in welding. BTW, if using H&K sights, be sure to remove the rear sight from the base before silver soldering, then reinstalling it after finishing. Star PD Thanks for the information I'll give it a try.

MT, How do plan on welding the sights on?? I think most people use a TIG welder. I have been wondering if silver solder would work. (I don't have a TIG welder).

The gun will not cycle without it. You will need to shoot a couple hundred rounds to break it in before it will cycle well.

+1 for the Gunfixr plug.

I don' really want to Hijack the thread but, Bob what light is that on your S-12??

I had the Tapco stock as well. I just changed to the DPH stock It on sale at CCS for $69.00. It is a much better stock and you can add either a /12" or 1" recoil pad.l DPH SKELETON STOCK 8.5" SOLID BILLET FOR SAIGA PISTOL GRIP CONVERSIONS WITH THE TRIGGER GROUP MOVED FORWARD PRICE: $95.00 $69.00 Available for Purchase: 46

5% off code?! I got to stop ordering stuff at 3:00 AM... Where would one obtain this magical code? Enter CSS on the Promo Code line when you log in with your password or create a new account. This can only be entered at that time to receive 5% discount on regular priced items. Greg is great and I will order from them as well.