sapper1371usmc
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Everything posted by sapper1371usmc
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Well, considering how many people install aftermarket FCG with replacement Tapco disconnector springs, I would say it is not needed. I doubt the factory 308 disconnector spring is anymore stronger than any of the other factory disconnector spring used in the other rifles and shotguns.
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I shape mine to where it hits the bolt tail squarely and only travels past the disconnector 1/16th-3/32nd. shape, test, shape, test until I achieve the end desired goal.
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You can see oval circle shifted down to left here... Judging by your picture, only the top and right port appeared to be right on the verge of being slightly blocked so only a slight bevel would have been needed. If the paint overspray could get to it, then the gas can escape, no need to open the gas block more than needed. Too late on your particular gas block, but hopefully others can benefit.
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The way his ports are situated, it doesnt appear to be enough room to add another port without opening up the gas block even more. Going up just one size,more than likely will not create a whole lot more debris in the gas block, any more than 5 ports at .078 would.
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It is machined hollow from the backside for weight reduction (I presume), but not not a buffer-tube hollow. Wall is quite thick (1/8" or thicker: I didn't put calipers on; let me know if you need precise G2). Front part (facing the adapter) is solid aluminum. It's sturdy. I didn't kick any doors yet, but smacked it few times and it didn't budge. Fits into receiver like a glove; no gap or movement before finishing tang screws. I used red threadlocker on all screws, including tube-to-adapter block on the bottom; I surprised there was no thread locker at all (blue or red). Thanks. No exact meas
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How well are the Fastfire 3 sights supposed to hold up to high heat. I know the RMR sights dont do to well with heat. Some mounting solutions even offer a heat shield when mounting one.
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You wont need a new gas block. Its good you didnt go into that recessed area. You might not have needed to make the opening that large, but it wont affect anything. And just because you cant see the ports when looking into the gas block, doesnt necessarily mean theyre covered up. When you remove the gas block, as long as the ports are within the carbon/paint overspray oval circle left on the barrel, then your good to go. And you might need to increase the ports up to the next size. While 4ports at .078 is all that is needed for some guns, others might require a little more oomph. Some eve
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Im not sure what I was thinking when I wrote this, as I forgot the Ejector is different on the S12 than on AK rifles. Probably due to the fact I was playing with my S308 when I wrote this. Yes, do what Tromix says.
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Why mill the bolt carrier when you can just clearance the edge of the ejector? Its common to do such that when building AK receivers from flats as the ejector rails are usually set up for 5.45 and have to be fitted to be used in a x39.
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One more question. The CSS tube that you are using, is it solid? Or is it hollow?
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Is the tube hollow or is it solid? +1 on availability of this adapter utilizing MILSPEC stocks.
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From what reading ive done, theyre supposed to be pretty accurate. For the price you paid though, id send them back while keeping one. If you kept them, you would probably be lucky to get back what you got in them. Just too many other bolt guns with factory support for those to be a big seller in the states. That rear sight arrangement seems interesting. Thanks for the pics.
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.308 aluminum railed forearm questions.............
sapper1371usmc replied to William M's topic in Saiga .308
You will probably want the one made for the saigas and you will more than likely have to hog out the clamps that go around the barrel and/or use longer screws. The Veprs use a larger barrel, so you might not be able to clamp the barrel tight enough using the Vepr rail. And this is all speculation. Now people have taken Ultimaks and made them fit the S308's by just using longer screws . Fitting the MI rail might need the same approach. -
Thanks, Red. A picture says a thousand words. I had two of these guns in the past and never noticed them having this "chunk" missing in the front trunnion lug. Must have overlooked it, but at the same time, I did not know much about AKs other than how to convert, so I probably assumed everything was as it should be. One thing I noticed, at least from the angle you took the picture, yours doesnt appear to be as deep as mine.
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The Definitive Arms AR mag adapter is the best design to date. I wish they would do something with the trigger guard as I feel it looks a little amatuerish having the original guard just tucked up under the adapter. It would be good if they integrated a trigger guard into the adapter and had it riveted in place. Rifle looks great. The only thing I would change would be the handguard. For the AR style, CSS has the vented tube that would stop at the gas block and offers a much superior front mount as it no longer uses the gas block pin in any way. Can you remove the top cover with the M
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Replacing the top receiver cover for a railed scope mount.
sapper1371usmc replied to redrocker35's topic in Saiga .223
The best optics platform in my opinion is the one made by Sabrewerks. It requires you to strip the barrel of all it's parts, replace the rear sight base with the one they sell, and reinstall gas block and front sight. Very easy to do. A little bit harder on the saigas with the dimpled front sight and gas block as the dimples must be drilled out, and pins installed when you go to reinstall. -
Anyone care to verify their front trunnion looks like mine and Deadeye's? Perhaps take a pic
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If you dont mind me asking, how much did you give for each rifle? Also, what about the questions above? And does the stock attach to the barrel at all, or only at the receiver? Thanks for the pic. Can you post one of the other side?
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http://www.mississippiautoarms.com/los-71-rifle-izhmash-p-917.html Looks like the going price was $699 Check one out for us and let us know. Are the barrels free floated? How many action screws doe the gun have? How many locking lugs on the bolt? Is the "optical" mount on the side in standard AK fashion?
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Probably not much in demand for Russian bolt action guns here in the US except for collectors. Ive looked up the model and saw these came into the US several years ago, and the going price then (2004-05) was around $450, much like how the S12s and other Saiga rifles went for much cheaper prices until demand started to pick up. Post a picture of one for us. If it was me, I'd keep one, and send the rest back to Centerfire in trade for the S308's.
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If you do end up sending these back, ask for pre-paid labels to cover shipping and also for them to refund you transfer fees if any. RWC as an MSRP of $1029.99 for the LOS 7-1 rifles
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Bitteroot Valley Ammunition and Components They are the manufacturers
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.308 aluminum railed forearm questions.............
sapper1371usmc replied to William M's topic in Saiga .308
Have you checked out CSS and the two options they make? They also differ from most of the other saiga handguard makers as they do not utilize a pin in the gas block, instead, they came up with a secondary mounting point that mounts just behind the gas block. http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-1047/SAIGA-RIFLE-FOREARM-HANDGUARD/Detail they also offer a quadrail of the above handguard. then they even offer an AR style tube that allows you to mount Picattiny rails only where you need them. http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-1368/Saiga-rifle-f -
Most states ban the use of FMJ for game taking. Go with a ballistic tip or soft nose.
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The brake will not have any negative effect on cycling as he still has the 19" barrel behind it. You usually only see a reduction when you cut the barrel and use the brake reach the legal barrel length.
