kwesi
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Posts posted by kwesi
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Update: I mounted the optic center of the bore however I began to have numerous stovepipes. The cases were hitting the base of the optic. I moved the optic about 1/4” (max adjustment on the RS) left and 1 picatinny slot to the rear. This eliminated the ejection issue. My Tromix S17 loves Remington Sluggers: 3 round zero off hand @ 25 yards. Next test at 35 & 50 yards. Hope to test on a large boar:
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9 hours ago, TO THE FLOOR IN A 63 said:
I think I have two Russian ones that I’m not going to use. Give me a fair price and they’re yours. I think your number is still on my phone hopefully you have mine.
Hey Scott it’s been a long time! I just emailed you. Note: you probably have my old Florida phone & email.
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I haven’t found any offerings online for our 5 round mags. Does anyone know of a source? Thx
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12 hours ago, evlblkwpnz said:
It looks kind of like you are doing it right as far as where the straight edge is placed. Looks significantly out of whack. However, if it runs well and the bolt head damage doesn't get much worse, keep on rocking it. You might take a picture of the bolt now and another from the same distance and angle after the next few hundred rounds and see if it looks any worse. Pictures never forget what something looked like.
I will take pics once Tony returns the bolt & carrier along with any instructions. The swapping of the forward recoil spring first using the OEM Plug then the Tac47 both still experiencing the SP’s only to be apparently resolved with the Gunfixr plug does not seem logical. I want to see another 35-50 rounds of Federal BS then 10-15 slugs on the 1 or -1 Gunfixr function 100% before any other spring changes. I realize all your feedback is not to resolve the SP’s.
I do have a NIB Saiga complete recoil rod assembly or I can purchase a couple new full power springs from CS.
BTW: what gas plug do you use on your builds?
I’m open to how to resolve the SP’s.
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Still just my hands but I think I'm getting real close:
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I had been away from the forum for sometime so I’m not aware of the apparent purging. I appreciate what you’ve all shared. I’ve been serving my clients for over 37 years and feel blessed to say how much I enjoy what I do after so many years. There are certainly times when the utility value of the money earned is secondary to truly serving while hopefully exceeding my clients expectations. If anyone reads my post on my bolt head damage they will quickly , as I have, understand your hearts. Your desire to all help me is unprecedented not to mention my testing your patience...
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3 hours ago, Veprz said:
There is definitely a bit of warpage in that receiver. How bad that really is? Ill let the experts decide.
I believe these two photo's are better. I did not focus on the level. It is resting on the side and did my best to hold it level with one hand and take the pic with the other. Please let me know if I need to get another set of hands to deliver the right pic. Hoping I'm at least getting closer.
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I purchased a straight edge square with a level attached. It’s hard to balance the gun while holding the straight edge level and take a pic. My guess is these pics aren’t exactly what you need so I’ll have to borrow more hands. I will get what you have been so patiently waiting on!
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On 8/11/2018 at 6:49 AM, evlblkwpnz said:
I'll post a pic of what I am looking for later tonight. You need a metal straight edge that is confirmed perfectly flat down one edge. You do this by eye or with light on something nice a flat like a granite countertop if you simply do not have a good eye for things. What I am trying to find has little to do with the stovepipes and much to do with the bolt head damage.
Who's on first?
Thank you sir!
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6 hours ago, evlblkwpnz said:
I'll post a pic of what I am looking for later tonight. You need a metal straight edge that is confirmed perfectly flat down one edge. You do this by eye or with light on something nice a flat like a granite countertop if you simply do not have a good eye for things. What I am trying to find has little to do with the stovepipes and much to do with the bolt head damage.
Who's on first?
Thank you sir!
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1 hour ago, Lone Star Arms said:
From the photos, the receiver actually looks pretty straight, unremarkable. Would have to have the gun in hand to confirm, but from the photos It does look like there is (at least) bilateral constriction of the carrier path directly at the front trunnion.
Saiga 12 cycling issues are seldom attributable to just one factor. The guns are made from a combination cast, forged, machined, and milled parts, and are assembled by hand at the factory, so cycling issues are not uncommon and can be fairly complex.
As Anthony (Evl) has pointed out, receivers are often torqued in one direction or another from the factory, and this is a primary suspect (when all things being equal) a gun simply isn't cycling properly.
IF mechanical constriction at the front trunnion is the issue, going after receiver geometry with a file is strictly "Appalachian Engineering". Don't do it.
There's alot of DIY advice on this forum, and frankly among the gems, is a vast minefield of absolute turds. The best advice I can give you is to proceed carefully and cautiously, and if after doing your best, you find yourself in the minefield, don't hesitate to contact a forum vendor for professional work.
Yes sir! I doubt I would attempt any mods other than a fine file to smooth out a burr. I do work on other platforms.
Does it seem odd that the stovepipes stopped, at least for 35 rounds, once I put in the low recoil forward recoil rod + the Gunfixr plug?
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3 hours ago, gunfun said:
This feels like a comedy routine. At least one of us in this thread has a name like Zeppo or Groucho.... I'm sure of it.
Turn the straight edge 90* about its axis so that it is edge on to the receiver. The way you are holding it, your hand can flex it, thus negating its purpose. It helps if the light source primarily is from underneath the straight edge so that you only see light where the contact is interrupted.
Hold the gun up to the light with a straight edge as described and you will see what I mean. That will inform your picture taking.
p.s. Don't get the idea that I am picking on you. You are asking reasonable questions and making honest attempts to provide the information requested. In short, you are trying to help others help you. Good job. That's actually a very rare thing.
Haha no offense taken. Dirty Harry nailed it when he said “ every man’s got to know his limitations”...I’m more visual so pics are appreciated. I’ve got my grand babies this weekend but I’ll work on it ASAP. I appreciate everyone’s patience. School is in session.
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46 minutes ago, evlblkwpnz said:
Well, couldn't do anything with any of it. It was worth a shot. Gunfun has the right idea. Stick a straight edge on the left side of the trunnion where the serial number is and note how much the gap between the straight edge grows from the front of the receiver to the back of the receiver. It may be shocking, but still is not the end of the world. Light under the weapon shining down on the workbench and less light on the weapon will make it easier to see the gap. If you can measure the gap just behind the trunnion and at the rear of the receiver, post those measurements. If not, take a pic with the straight edge on there so we can have a look.
Thanks for trying. Is the pic below the area that you want the straight edge photo? If so then my ruler is about 1/8" too long. I'll work on getting a shorter piece:
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On 8/7/2018 at 7:22 PM, Veprz said:
Reeeeaaaaallllyyy?....very interesting! Your talking about K-USA (as in the manufacturer of the KS-12)?
Yes. No return call.
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2 hours ago, Veprz said:
Well on a positive note, it looks like you have a clean and well organized work area.
LOL
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I hope these pics are what you are requesting. I'm rushing to get to work:
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The one spot that I did notice was the small red circle. Are you suggesting to take a small file and slowly knock off the burrs? I can probably handle that.
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A big thanks to all who are sharing their expertise. I will need to sit down with the S12 and slowly read these posts over so I can hopefully get you the photo's requested. It's just that my mechanical abilities are growing...
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Thanks Mike! It's sounding more and more that the froward recoil spring is the culprit.
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I left a voicemail at KalUSA today re: available bolts, carriers, springs, etc. and to confirm they are interchangeable with our S12.
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BTW: I contacted Tac47 and had a nice conversation with Keith. He did not understand the failures I was having now with my auto plug. He then said to send it back to him and he is going to replace it with a new Gen 2.0. Great service!
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I clean the gas block, puc and ports after every outing. If the peening is the cause of the stovepipes ( which seems logical ) then why would the last 35 rounds of cheap Fed bulk run 100% only after changing the forward recoil spring? The other change was switching from the Tac-47 and OEM plugs, both of which had stovepipes with the OEM recoil springs. Only when I installed the Gunfixr plug ( I have 4 plugs that I accumulated over the years ) and the recoil spring did she run right. Note: I sent all the photo's to Tony (Tromix) and asked him if I should send him the S17 due to a bent receiver, etc. He said that everything looked fine but to send him the bolt and he was going to work on it. I sent it out today along with the carrier.
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40 minutes ago, Veprz said:
If its not causing any problems you could probably just leave the peened/displaced material. If you currently have or start to have issues with the shells rim not being properly held by the extractor (as described by Tony), then you would need to lightly file the peened/displaced material flush with the face of the bolt. You can test this with the bolt out of the gun and a fired shell.
Besides that if its not causing a function issue, its really would come down to how much it bothers you looking at it.
If you do decide to file away the peened/displaced material, you want to take it slow..ONLY remove the peened/displaced material flush with the face of the bolt and stop before affecting the base metal (the reason why I wouldnt suggest using a dremel). It really will not take many strokes or much pressure to remove that amout of material (very light stroke with basically no pressure applied, let the file do the work). As far as the side of the bolt head the same basically applies, but since that surface is intended to be rounded you want to make sure you dont file so much as to create a flat spot. In other words you want to keep the same profile/geometry as how it came from the factory. Do not roll over the edge (bolt face to side wall of bolt) do one edge at a time, seperately.
Id like to see what evl thinks about the reciever when hes sees the pics.
I don’t mind what it looks like as long as it functions and is not causing additional damage to other parts. I’ve started getting stovepipes not only with Federal Bulk but also on Remington Sluggers ( never have issues with them ). Long story short: after much testing it seems that my forward recoil spring is bad. Last test was with the Gunfixr plug set on 3 and a Carolina Supply Low Recoil Spring. The Fed bulk ran 100%! I’m thinking the peening is not the problem. Thoughts?
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15 hours ago, Veprz said:
I wouldnt suggest using a dremel. If I was doing it I would use a file by hand and only as much as necessary to clean up the peened/displaced metal. You dont want to remove ANY of the base metal.
So continue to fire it this way vs filing the peening? If filing are we beginning at the edge at top of the bolt face and file down the side?
Need Side Rail for Tromix S17 to Mount RDS
in Saiga-12
Posted
Yardage update: Target was a steel plate appx 6”x4” at 70 yards dead on. I never expected this with the 8” bbl. I’m now thinking she would do well out to 100 yards.