tripletdadOH

There is another option for a factory style HG.I put a rhineland arms wooden HG on my Saiga.I went from this:to:and finallyIt keeps your hand much cooler than the factory HG.It reminds me of the the wide HK G3 hand guard.Only downside is there are no rails,if your into that,to mount a flashlight.Also I'm not sure it would work with an ultimak without some modification to the HG.Overall I really like it and would recommend it to anyone who likes the factory style HG.The price was right too at 45.00 shipped.

Easy guy to deal with.Good communication!Items were exactly as described.Would deal with cooger again.

I had the same problem with trying to find a HG I liked.I went with rhineland arms.The HG I got is made of walnut.It is the same length of the factory Saiga HG,which I like,and it comes unfinished so you have to stain it,oil it,whatever you want to do. The HG is built like a tank and is well made.It is heavier than the factory one but does not get overly hot when shooting rapid fire like the factory one.It doesn't use the factory mounting pin instead it uses a threaded piece of steel shaped like a C over the barrel and 2 allen screws inserted from the bottom through the HG.The rear of the

Thanks THX for the kind words... Yeah it attaches with a u shaped metal bracket thats threaded for 2 provided allen bolts at the barrel.The part that goes into the receiver is just like the factory hand guard.Once I mounted it I loc tited the bolts.It definitely ain't going anywhere.

How do you like the Rhineland forearm? And how'd you finish it? I really like the forearm.Its definitely well built/solid.Adds some weight to the front compared to the factory one,but the bp-02/red dot help even that out.I also modified the front of the forearm a bit.I didn't like the straight cut it had so I shaved it a little bit.It feels better in the hand compared to the factory one and heat is a non-issue. I finished it with 3 coats of tung oil.I didn't want a real glossy finish and that stuff is easy to use.Here is a couple more pics of the forearm...

My .223.Finally have it done to my satisfaction...for now.

I used 1/8th roll pins.Cut them to size and tap em in.Not ak correct but it was what I had on hand.No problems so far in 300 rnds.I've heard of people cutting down old drill bit shanks for pins too.

By heat shield I was meaning between the barrel and the handguard.And what about making your handguard the same length as the factory one..is it too much of a PITA due to mounting or am I the only person who likes the factory length?Would love to have another option besides the tapco one (looks flimsy) and sgm (don't like the rails).What say you?

Is the length of the handguard the same as a factory one?Will it have a heat shield?

Interested in any trades?

I have a .223 also.I bought a FSB for an ak74.That way you I can run the ak74 muzzle break,or the bulgarian flash hider.I feel this will work better than just threading the muzzle cause you'll have the pin already in the FSB to index the break.Only downside right now is FH or muzzle breaks selection is kinda limited.

I have an eagle 4 cell chest rig that I use for my orlites.I believe the rig is for ak mags.It uses the bungie cord method to hold the mags and I can get 2 orlites in each pouch.Little tight at 1st but has stretched since. I also picked up a double ar mag shingle from local mil surplus store.These will also hold the orlites,getting the cover flap to close is difficult,but will close.I think I paid 10 bucks for the pouch.I run it on an old web gear belt.Now the double ar mag pouch will only really fit one orlite.It works well,is really low-key(don't look like some mall ninja)and to me is m

Maintain the weapon properly and it will work.I'd say atleast half the folks ripping on the ar platform have no idea what their talking about except what they read on the internet.Maybe I'm wrong,but,I doubt it.Flame on.