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Yeah, pretty sure thats what I'm gonna do. Thanks

I haven't had a chance to zero my sgl21 yet. Usually in the past when I zeroed a rifle I tended to use the ammo that I used most frequently target shooting for zeroing despite the accuracy of that ammo. I was just wondering, is it better to use a more accurate ammo when zeroing, and will it have a major effect on shots with ammo that seems to be less accurate? For example, I have a lot of golden tiger, which is what I'll primarily shoot when I go to the range, but should I zero with it, or buy some of the more expensive such as american made loads which seem to be a little more accurate and

Okay thanks for providing me with exactly the info I was looking for. You might know this, but did the stamped slr's come with spring loaded firing pins? And is there any advantage to having an akm spec bcg vs 74 spec bcg like in sgl's, when using it with the 7.62 round. It seems like the 74 was obviously designed to be able to fire the 5.45. So when they made the ak103 series they just created a 74 with a large bolt face, but pretty much everything else the same. Does the larger round have any effect on the 74 based parts which seem to be lighter or slimmed down compared to the akm parts

I understand what your saying, but how about the internal parts, do they too more resemble that of an ak47 or are they like the sgl21 which fires 7.62x39 but resembles the parts of the ak74? Just out of curiousity, is there some reason the Bulgarians abandoned the stamp reciever for the milled? Weren't the stamped better for quicker and cheaper production, in otherwords more cost efficient to provide to military and police? In incorporating some AK74 design improvements, were they trying to create something that has the best of all worlds when it comes to the ak?

I was wondering if the new slr101 design is based off the AK74 much like the sgl21's or based of the akm like the slr107 in terms of the bolt carrier, bolt, ect. I know it has the 90 degree gas block and all that but does it have the larger bolt stem like the 107 or is it more like the sgl21 with the slim bolt stem based on the ak74? Is the ak74 design on the sgl21's superior to the akm design when considering it is firing the 7.62x39 instead of the 5.45 round which the 74 was designed to fire? Someone who has this knowledge or experience wtith both rifles please inform me. I've fired the

I received a Weiger last week. Since I've already removed my interdiction tab, I didn't have to do a lot to make it work. Some material needs to be removed from the front of the feed lips, and the locking tab had to be filed a bit. Here's the pic from the cross-conn site showing the material that must be removed from the feed lips: There is a tiny bit of side to side wobble, but not bad at all. The Galil steels needed no modification whatsoever, but they wobble more than I'd prefer. If you want easy and inexpensive, start here first. They sit too low in some Saigas, but many here hav

I have a couple of Circle 10's and an orlite which all seem to work fine. The Circle 10's required quite a bit modifying, and the orlite required barely any. However, I've been wanting to try either steel galil mag or a weiger. Since ya'll have seemed to have used them which one would be better in terms of least amount of modifications and the least amount of wobble? I would assume they vary given how different every saiga seems to be, but overrall which one would you be more likely to waste your money on trying out.

I've notice when I go out to the range and shoot that the handguard seems to get quite hot. I was just wondering if switching to the standard ak style handguard with the heat shield makes a big difference or not? Is it worth swapping out the original for the ak style?

Hurry and order they will be gone soon, he does small batches. Good Luck Corbin. Now these revised red dots, are they the gen2 or gen3?

I would think that it would be a little off, progressively worse at further distances. I'm just theorizing, though. But why buy the wrong one?? Good point. Thanks for the info on this.

The calibration for caliber is not in the sight leaf, but in the ramp beneath it. The Krebs 1000 meter sight will work fine for the .223. Well I guess we learn new things everyday, I didn't know the calibration was in the ramp. So would the 800 meter work also?

I was just wondering if the ak peep sight from Krebs would work fine on the 5.56. Personally I don't know how much a difference there is between the rear sight on 7.62 and a 5.56. So I'm assuming the rear peep sight they are selling is for the 7.62. So if any of ya'll got any knowledge on this subject, and whether or not you could use it on the 5.56 please feel free to fill me in. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about.

Look, all WASR are Romanians, but not all Romanians are WASR. You might want to understand that before deciding what is good, and what is not. Guess I hit a nerve. Never said all Romanians were WASR's, just said I don't want one.

Do you ever get the orlites? And as far as the steel mags coming in next week should i put an order in now or wait?

I saw that this site has orlites, does anyone here know anything about this place. http://whatacountry.com/galil223magazine.aspx

Thats kind of what I figured and what you said makes sense to me. I 've noticed that there seems to be no vent holes anywhere though on my gas block unless I'm just completely looking at it wrong.

I know they say if your gun doesn't have vents in the gas tube which pretty much most saigas do not, then use non vented gas tubes. However, I have a vented tube in my possession now and was just wondering if it would hurt anything if I use it on my saiga? I don't see any vent holes on the gas block either so I was also wondering if this would help with keeping the rifle/gas tube a little cooler by throwing this vented tube on or should I get a nonvented tube?

Maybe you can clear something up for me. Do either renegadebuck's or the msa adapter require a bullet guide?

I disassembled my bolt for cleaning. I was wondering once disassembeled is lubricant supposed to be applied inside the bolt where the firing pin goes, on the firing pin, or in, on, and around the ejector? Or are all these areas supposed to be dry and lube free?

I took my bolt apart the other day for the first time. It is spring loaded, but didn't make the process that much more difficult. It got the spring with a little circular metal piece that holds the spring onto the firing pin. I drew a picture for ya of how it looked. The top is a picture of the firing pin with the spring and the little retainer thing off, and the bottom is the firing pin with the spring and retainer on it. That is how it looked when I took it out and put it back in. The one thing I will tell you is that when you push out the pin that holds the firing pin in the bolt, eit

I read where its made composed of romanian parts, an elk ridge receiver I think, and a barrel made by mossberg. Some reviews I've read have been really good given the price of them. I 've also heard some bad reviews. I remember reading one about the rifle having feeding issues, but it turned out to be the cheapo thermhold magazine. The guy said he switched to bulgarian mags and the feeding problem went away. I personally would like to know more about the rifle because I've been wanting an AKM style rifle, but I don't want a dam WASR. I wish arsenal would go ahead and come out with the sl

Ya'll are missing what I was saying, I'm wanting the 45 degree gas block. I was wanting to turn it into more of an AKM instead of the 74, but after some thinking I don't want to tamper with it because its shoots great as is. I'm just hoping now they come out with that slr 108.

Does anyone here know whether or not arsenal is going to come out with the slr 108 or not? I know they have coming soon on the website, but I've read some posts on other boards saying that they aren't coming out with it. However, those posts were rather old, so I'm just wondering if anyone has any info on this.

Yeah, I guess I'll hold off and just leave my saiga as is. It seems most parts on the rifle are based off the 74 and not the 47 so it'd probably be best to scratch the whole gas block change. I guess if I want an AKM it's probably best just do buy one as is. Thanks for all the input.

Yeah, I haven't seen any bulgarian for sale anywhere, but you can find the romanian gas blocks pretty easy. Just be 100% you are saying that the romanian gasblocks are interchangeable right? Also on that part about removing the sleeve wouldn't it all just come off together since its all just one piece? Or do you have to cut the sleeve from the FSB for some reason in order to get the whole thing off?