Redwood

LIKE NEW Mako collapsible buttstock by FAB Defense with 6-position recoil reducing stock tube. Fits any AK-style stamped receiver. Very effective at reducing recoil and muzzle rise. Sells new for $100 and over. I am selling mine for $75 + $7 shipping.

Thanks for the info, guys. I also just saw that AR15performance.com has some muzzle brakes that are especially made for hunters and for LE where ear protection may not be an option. I'll have to contact them to see if they will work for a 308.

Please delete ad, I have decided to keep the Saiga.

I'm looking for a muzzle brake for a Saiga 308 that helps reduce muzzle rise / recoil / flash and also directs much of the blast and sound towards the front. I don't intend to shoot the rifle without ear protection, nosirrrr, but I want something that would not destroy my hearing in case of an emergency situation, when ear protection may not be available. Any ideas for a muzzle device that accomplishes this?

Someone better buy it soon, because I'm starting to think I may want to keep it in my collection and not sell it after all..

Will also consider a partial trade for complete AR15 upper with 16" or 18" Wylde-chambered barrel and 1:7 or 1:8 twist. Please don't suggest a trade unless your upper meets these criteria, because I won't be interested.

I wanted to give you and the Calguns.net folks the first chance to buy this rifle, but perhaps it is time to advertise it on additional classifieds and auction sites.

Thanks for the good wishes. I'm in no big hurry, so maybe you will buy it after all!

i've already got 2 308's or i would be all over this. you've got way more in parts cost than your asking. i think money is just a little tight for most folks ,and with our teleprompter in chief fuc**ng everything up , people are just hunkerin down. it's a seriously nice boomstick and the more i gaze at the pics the more i want it! be patient.. . there's lots of morons like me trying to figure out how to swing it...... and good luck with the sale! peaceout! Very true, I am selling it for much less than I have in it! But a price reflecting my investment would have taken it into the

I thought a nicely converted super accurate S 308 would get a good deal of interest here in Saigaland - hmm..

Converted RAA Saiga 308 rifle with 21" Barrel in EXCELLENT condition for sale. I have over $1,300 invested in its purchase and conversion. Rifle without scope and sling and is $875 OBO + shipping and insurance. Rifle with scope and sling is $985 OBO + Shipping and insurance. Payment by Postal Money Order accepted. Reasonable offers will be considered. Item is located in California. I purchased this S308 in barely used stock form and did an extensive conversion to it. I have a total of about 40 rounds through the rifle. With S&B ammo I have attained 3-shot groups inside of an inch at 10

How about this one? If it is stable and not wobbly it looks like a winner: http://www.floridagunexchange.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=23852

I have the longer barrel version of the S308. I threaded the barrel for a muzzle brake at home using home tools and the Dinzag threading and crowning tools. I am getting very fine accuracy with mine - 1/2" at 100 yards using S&B fmj. It is a long beast with the muzzle brake and sometimes I do think of cutting it shorter but then I wonder- would cutting the barrel to say 19" really make THAT much of a difference in weight and maneuverability? So I have not done it yet... I figure I have my M1 carbine for shorter range stuff, and my long-ass Saiga 308 for long range shooting.

Thanks, Noob308. I actually did a little polishing on the lug a few days ago, but have not tried to shoot it again yet. If I did managed to damage the bolt by removing too much material, do you have any idea where I can purchase another one?

I never knew that rooster waddles could look so grotesque - was that image from a roadkill? Now let me make sure I follow your line of thinking - everyone who shoots an AR type rifle with a muzzle brake and buffer device in the stock to mitigate recoil and muzzle rise (for the sake of quick follow-up shots) is a fully intact dude (or dudette), but if someone shooting an AK platform wants to reduce recoil and muzzle rise (for the sake of quick follow-up shots) then that makes them a castrato?

I have their shock absorbing stock and it works great, especially in conjunction with a muzzle brake. I can hardly feel any recoil, though there is a quick back and forth movement from the spring in the stock contracting and expanding. In other words there is still recoil movement but without much of any force to it (it does throw the sight picture off however). The stock is very easy to install - just slide it on and secure with the two allen head screws. I do want to try my Saiga with just the muzzle brake and a regular stock to see if there is less movement.

I am using a brand new Surefire 10-rd mag. The damaged casing was from the first shots out of the mag. I have given some thought in the past few days about the mag being defective and will be checking it out by using some other ammo brand in it to see if the damage is duplicated.

No, this is happening after the shot when the bolt blows back to the rear. I can mimic the effect by pulling the bolt back by hand. Ås the bolt/extractor slides over the cartridge on its way to the rear it dents the casing.

Noone with any ideas about why this is happening?

Here is an image from an unfired Prvi Partizan 308 SP cartridge that was damaged by the bolt sliding back. This just happened about an hour ago when I was trying this ammo for the first time. WOW.. This does not happen with the other ammo I have so far fired in the rifle (modern S&B, Brown Bear, surplus Portuguese). There is always a slight mark down the whole of the case but not a dent like this. I can see the part of the extractor that is hitting the case and I have filed it down a little but am hesitant to go much farther. Any idea why this is happening so dramatically wi

Steck, thanks very much. That makes great sense and I'll check that out the next time I shoot the Saiga. The guns seems to shoot fairly smooth as it is but preventing the extractor from mangling the next fed round should make it even smoother.

I recently went through somewhat the same decision process, in that I wanted to put on a PWS FSC30 muzzle brake that had a 5/8x24 thread and required a .631 barrel diameter. I also wanted to keep the original FSB and move it farther back on the barrel. The end of my barrel was about .67, so it needed to be reduced. Since it was not an option for me to send the barrel off to be turned down, I decided to reduce the diameter myself, and here is what I did: First I punched the pins out of the base of the stock FSB and used a brass punch to get the FSB off. As mentioned by someone here earlier

Thanks for your replies, ThirtyAughtSix and Rhodes1968. I'll give the door molding a try. This 308 is a sweet shooter by the way. I installed a PWS FSC30 muzzle brake and a Mako collapsible stock with shock absorber and it feels like I am shooting my M1 carbine..

Hey thanks for the link to the thread. It seems like he solved his problem by screwing in the piston further. I'm not sure exactly what he is referring to but I sure would like to know and give it a try.

I recently completed the conversion on my S308 and while I am very happy with the accuracy (3/4" groups at 100 yards so far with modern S&B FMJ, but I think it can do better), I have noticed that the ejected brass have a pretty hefty dent in them. Maybe too much of a dent to be able to reload them, I don't know. Is this normal for a Saiga 308 and can anything be done to minimize damage to the brass? Thanks.