ColoradoKLR650

Doing it yourself is the quickest turn around for sure especially now. Until something changes in the political atmosphere as a rule I'd assume all bets are off, all "options" are on the table, and you should not expect to have any gun-relate product or service readily available to you. This is the fight we're currently in though there's definitely much more to come. Can you say "tip of the iceberg"? Civil War II (or would it be WWIII?) seems less and less unlikely every day. You could do the job in about an hour if you got everything on hand and have some decent skills and finesse. Then agai

The kind that comes out of a can.

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f19/saiga-308-dented-shells-11546/index2.html

I paid $500 plus shipping ~ 3 years ago for a factory S308.

I live in Denver right now, have family in Castle Rock and Palmer Lake. Guns: S308, Glock 23, and Sig 522. I grew up in Douglas County and still consider it my backyard...Rampart Range will always be my sanctuary. I ride my WR450 and KLR650 up there 3 season a year. To shoot in the summer, spring, and fall, I take HWY 85 to HWY 67, then take Rampart Range Road south 25 miles to FR-325. There's a big open area with a large open (unofficial) parking lot just north of the intersection with 325A. Here's the general location: http://goo.gl/maps/pg2Ky Note that it's illegal to shoot within the Do

Hey, some tacticool mall ninja is going to buy that and feel great about it...and the shop is going to feel even better. If you've seen any pawn shop show on TV, this shouldn't surprise you. If they didn't think they were going to sell it, they wouldn't price it like that...and they know their clientele. That being said I'd be willing to be we're not seeing everything...maybe the scope really is a couple grand? Maybe the rifle was completely rebuilt? Match grade barrel? When you're rich, the price doesn't matter as much.

So what about a metal mag makes it more reliable in function beyond that it's more durable? Just because a mag is made out of metal doesn't necessarily mean it's going to function well. I'm not saying metal mags aren't reliable or durable, CSSPEC's mag have gotten great reviews so I'm sure they're both. I was speaking in general...nothing about a mag being metal makes it more reliable in function (like feeding rounds reliably), it's just more reliable in the sense that it is durable and will function reliably by not being broken so easily. If a metal mag doesn't function well to begin with

First, you're right, I'm sorry, a Saiga 308 is an MBR, not an assault rifle...oh wait, that doesn't matter, because it's not a machine-gun! Which has been my point: unless you're treating your Saiga like a SAW, a drum mag is not going to be most people's choice for a number of valid reasons. Second, you're right about all the mag drop stuff but I'm not a trained soldier so I can imagine I'd drop a mag in a real-life firefight regardless of what kind of mag. And I still think there's a legitimate reason to drop mags if that one second could save your life. And if you don't have the muscle m

I guarantee two of my 24 round ProMags (which actually fit 28 rounds) are gonna weigh a lot less than any .308 drum mag and take up less space. Even three full mags might be lighter or close in weight to one full drum. So someone who drops a magazine in the heat of a firefight is an idiot? I'd rather drop my magazine than get shot if that's what it came to and I think most would agree. Dropping magazines isn't something anyone wants to do, but it happens in fast-paced tactical situations and I don't think anyone would think twice about it if they're getting shot at. Yeah, obviously if

On a range I can see why some might like one...but with the price of ammo and regular magazines these days, I think there's very little justification beyond fun. When I see professionals and soldiers using them and explaining why, I'd be convinced that they're practical. But until that happens, they're just the heaviest, most cumbersome, least reliable and durable (most complicated), least economical, and least practical magazine option out there...at least for me and in my opinion. What would you do in a shootout with a drum after emptying/shooting its rounds? Drop it on the ground (I don't

If I was short on magazines I'd just stock up on whatever I could get my hands on at this point...just sayin'. The drum mag seems to have no purpose (for .308 anyways) other than for fun.

I heard on another forum that this was an intended design feature to render brass non-reloadable (in a military situation, they didn't want to give supplies to the enemy)...even though, as stated here, most shells can be reloaded.

I believe most re-use their pins if they can get them out without major destruction and don't need to correct a canted FSB. If necessary, new pins are as easy as buying the right size drill bit, cutting it, then grinding down the two pieces to the length of the original pins. Your FSB may be pinned on in a canted position. To fix this, many redrill/machine the pin holes a hair wider and are sure to be as a straight as possible in preparation for new slightly larger pins. If you're moving your FSB back for threading, you definitely will end up drilling/machine at least one entirely new

If you drop a Cummins in it, yes.

You said "no", and then basically repeated what I said in my quote about how an inward hit on the button could lose zero because it would allow the rail to move...!? No. As I said, the takedown button cams the rail down against the top of the receiver tightly. Once it's in place, the spring isn't what's holding it anymore, and it takes some effort to push the button in and release the rail. If the button does somehow get pushed in inadvertently, cycle the carrier back hard a couple of times to re-set it. It won't lose zero because it returns to zero.

I have never handled the TWS system in person. I see now on their website that the system has a new recoil spring assembly which clamps down on the dust cover/rail unit as you mentioned. Seems legit, but I think it would be fairly easy to lose zero if a hit on the recoil spring button moved it forward enough to no longer clamp down the rail/cover. Obviously firing some rounds would hit it back into place, but I don't see anything actually holding the recoil spring assembly in place except for the trunnion which doesn't limit forward motion. I thought this would be a weakness on my Tech Sig

Damn I'm bet you're correct I just assumed that you could... Maybe you can fit an empty brass into the bolt while it is in the bolt carrier but outside of the receiver, then fit it into the receiver? Forgive me for giving incorrect information...most of the the time I don't have my Saiga in front of me and in this case don't have any empty brass on hand (when I do I want to give this a try for myself). I was trying to give the OP some ideas...diagnosing failure to feed and/or fire issues on any semi-auto is a steep learning curve unless you're a professional.

I read this as highly recommended. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/7-MIAKSM But I've also read that all the optics rails that use the side-mount are a crapshoot in that once you attach them yours may or may not get your scope centered enough to be able to zero it properly (with room for substantial windage and elevation adjustments) or at all. That being said, the MI AK rail (the link above) looks like it's centered over the dust cover very well. The more common side-mount optics rails such as this http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/AKS-006 ...are the kind that tend to have th

Not to state the obvious, but it appears that something is preventing that round from getting "stripped" from the magazine by the bolt as it moves forward. Take off the dust cover, recoil spring, and remove the bolt and bolt carrier. Make sure the bolt does it's twist within the bolt carrier like it should just from pushing it forward with your hand. If that all looks good, put the bolt carrier, bolt, and recoil spring back into the receiver and view the movement of the action within the receiver by cycling. Go one step further by putting a spent shell or two (NOT live rounds) into both yo

jojo is right, when I bought the stock from the CTD link I provided, I got the exact stock in jojo's link...so CTD's image is probably an older model. Mine has the swiveling buttpad compartment and the QD sling holes. I'd say it's about as durable and tough as a plastic stock could be. The aft part of the stock, the part that actually moves, does have negligible lateral play but I can only feel it by purposefully looking for it...it feels rock solid on the shoulder. The recoil reduction is definitely noticeable between the spring and the buttpad. The buttpad itself is like a little tire tread

I'm happy with mine: http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/2-MAKSBTK47FK#Reviews 6-position adjustable, rubber butt pad, spring recoil compensation, storage compartment, M4 style Simply, effective, relatively cheap.

As far as I know, the bolt hold open lever shouldn't interfere with the action unless it has been installed incorrectly. Study the movement of the action by viewing it from the magazine well as you manipulate it (with no magazine in or rounds nearby, obviously). Is the action getting caught up anywhere? Look especially at the bolt returning to lockup against the barrel, that is of course how it looks when feeding a round. Now remove the dust cover and manipulate the action again this time without the recoil spring's tension...anything different? Being very careful and only in a safe area,

You have two options. A.) Deal with a gunsmith (total crap shoot, most of them suck and are assholes in my experience)...or B.) Do it yourself. The gunsmith isn't cheap, but doing it yourself isn't going to save you much money. The best case scenario, if you buy everything from Dinzag you may save yourself $50-100 but that's only if you would have taken the work to a cheap gunsmith or one who'd give you a deal. The best part for me going DIY was that I didn't have to leave my insurance policy with the gunsmith for 5 weeks minimum. It isn't that difficult to do yourself but you NEED to

I agree the FSB was a B to remove. After I removed the pins with a drill press, it wouldn't even budge in any direction. I ended up cutting it with a dremel length-wise along the bottom, being sure to avoid cutting into the barrel. Then I was able to remove it by expanding it with a flathead screwdriver. With how far back my FSB needed to be re-located for my FH, I couldn't even re-use the second pin cut-out. And frankly, I didn't feel like dealing with pins anymore...so I just put the FSB in position and had a guy put a tack weld on both ends of the bottom side of my FSB where the cut is. It

Pics of my rifle with Blackout flash-hider: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/14900-this-is-the-tacked-308-picture-thread/page__st__660#entry830816