christcorp

So, any customer updates? Has shipments gone out? There was a lot of posting back and forth, and I know there's a lot of interested customers who want to buy an AR adapter for their Saiga. If MSA has started shipping and you've received your adapter, I think it's only fair to let potential customers know that MSA is taking orders and coming through for you.

I have a saiga with RenegadeBuck's adapter and an S&W M&P15. I usually take both rifles out to shoot at the same time. I've had my adapter for close to 2 years. I shoot about 2 cases a year. So that means about 4000 rounds through both rifles. That means around 2000 rounds through my saiga and Renegadebuck adapter. I prefer the renegadebuck adapter better. I think it's easier to fit to the rifle."Even a caveman can do it". You don't need special tools. Plus; you won't find better customer service. But to each their own.

Not saying a person shouldn't do a complete conversion. Simply saying that it's a "Personal" thing. It's not a "Make it original" thing or any other reason. it's 100% personal preference. Why do i say this? Simple. I've owned a LOT of AK's in my life. And within a year or two I would sell them. Main reason is because i NEVER like the positioning of the trigger (Fire Control Group) in relationship to the front stock. I'd keep buying AK's thinking I'd get use to it or it would be different. Albert Einstein Quotes Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting differen

I've been using AR magazines in my Saiga .223 for about a year and a half. I'm also able to find great deals once in a while on US Mil-Spec GI mags for between $7-$10 each. While I'll take the adapter out sometimes and shoot the factory Saiga magazine or a Surefire, I prefer to shoot AR magazines. I have a couple of AR/M4 and the saiga, so it's nice using the same magazines.

I prefer using AR15 magazines. I have 2 AR's and the saiga, and it's nice to simply use the same magazines in all of them. The saiga/adapter isn't too fond of the plastic magazines, so I usually just use USGI mags in the saiga. Definitely well worth it.

Wolf in the pseudo name given to the importer. It's russian steel case ammo. Nothing wrong with it at all. I shoot primarily russian steel case ammo in all my .223. Including my AR15's. You just aren't going to reload it. And because it's steel case, it doesn't expand as well as brass. Therefor, you get a little more blowback along the side of the case. TRANSLATION: It dirties the chamber a little more. Just clean the rifle more often. Oh; and for what it's worth, the barrel twist on a saiga .223 isn't 1:8. It's 1:9. Actually, it's a little over 1:9, but closer to 1:9 than 1:10.

The best magazine for the saiga .223 is the USGI Military M16/AR15 magazine. Plain and simple.

Cheapest for me, was putting in a Renegadebuck Saiga/AR15 magazine adapter. I have plenty of mags. So the adapter paid for itself in 5-6 magazines. I saved $20 on each magazine having an AR15 instead of a $30 Surefire magazine. And ALL future magazines will be cheaper. I spend between $6-$9 for an AR15 magazine.

Yea; I don't even think WHAT the problem is, until I've shot about 1000 rounds through a semi-auto rifle. I've had my M&P15 AR for just over 3 months now. But it on Christmas eve. I've put about 1500 rounds through it. 90% russian steel case. Then again; an M&P15 is known for shooting rocks if you can fit it in the chamber. It will shoot anything. I've had this particular saiga .223 for about a year and a half. I had a couple of feeding issues when it was new, but now it shoots flawlessly with any ammo. Of course, there are those that take a brand new rifle and if they have any feeding

My issues were failures to fire. And like I said, I've gone through thousands of rounds of steel case ammo, and I haven't had any problems.

Each weapon is different. Whether it's using steel case or brass case ammo, each rifle has it's own personality. My son was home from school for spring break last weekend. He went through 500 rounds of steel case russian .223. Some was Barnaul and some was tula. He didn't have one misfire, jam, or feeding issue. And all of it hit on target perfectly. I would have no problem using steel case MFS or Silver Bear Soft Point ammo for home defense. I've shot enough bear, tula, MFS, barnaul, and wolf in both my Saiga .223 and my S&W M&P15 AR15. I would feel just as comfortable shooting it as

http://www.weaponsworld.com/ammunition/rifle-ammunition/223-remington.html MFS 62 grain Soft Point. Zinc Plated steel case. (Same as Silver Bear). Soft point is great for target, varmints, home defense, etc... $229 for 1000 rounds. Flat $9.99 for shipping and handling. Excellent ammo and excellent company. That price comes out to $4.80 per box of 20. Prices are going up. I'd order this very soon if you're interested. FYI. They have 55 grain FMJ, but it's the exact same price. They also have 500 rounds of the soft point for $129, but if you have the money, buy the 1000 rounds. It's $9.99 fo

Thanks for all the input everyone. RLTW: I am so beyond 922R. I couldn't screw that up if I tried. But for what it's worth; while a mag adapter "ITSELF" doesn't count as 922R part; it's pretty much impossible to use the adapter, unless you put a MAGAZINE IN IT!!! Ya think??? So; assuming they are American made magazines, it DOES count for another 3 parts. But 922R is not something I worry about. Just curious about moving the trigger. I'm still not sure if I'm going to do it or not. I personally like it the way it is. That's why I bought it. If I do keep the gun, I WON'T be moving the trig

If your front sight is all the way right, and you're hitting left, you'd need to move the front sight LEFT to shoot RIGHT. You move your sight opposite of where you want to hit. Same with the scope. If you're shooting too low, you need to cant the front down in order to shoot higher. Now; if you were moving the REAR sight, you'd move LEFT to shoot LEFT. Or RIGHT to shoot RIGHT. But when you move the front sight sight, it's opposite of what you want to do.

This isn't really a "HOW" type question, so i thought this would be a better part of the forum for my question. I have a Saiga .223 which I've "changed" basically everything except the FCG. And I like it the way it is. It's got a new quad rail on the forearm; T-6 stock and pistol grip; decent reflex sight and laser and vertical foregrip. And the only real physical change, was adapting it to work with an AR15/Saiga adapter, so I can shoot AR15 magazines in it. (Or original Saiga Magazines). And for me, it's the way i like it. Thing is; I have 2 friends that are "somewhat" interested in it.

I've been using a 100 round AR15 drum magazine that a friend of mine has. He let me play with it some my son; who was home on vacation; could have some fun. I used it in my AR15 and my Saiga .223. (Obviously I have an RB:AR15/Saiga magazine adapter.) Anyway; works like a champ. Unless you're a paranoid, rambo, red-dawn, EOTWAWKI, type person; it's pretty much useless. But it is fun to play with at the range. But I've never used the Saiga specific drum magazine. Just the AR15 drum type.

That's how I did mine when I bought the Renegadebuck adapter. The only way you're going to potentially crack anything, is if you over heat it. In other words, take your time and don't try to grind it down in 2 minutes. The advantage of the Renegadebuck adapter and the MSA adapter, is that they snap in place just like they were a magazine. So; if for whatever reason you wanted to, you can pop the adapter out just like it was a magazine, and go back to using the surefire or original magazines. (Or the promags that you properly snipped). So you have the best of both worlds.

For what it's worth; I've probably done more testing and experimenting with promags and the Saiga rifles than probably anyone else. I've even posted a complete review. Now; whether or not they work right out of the bag or not is irrelevant. Point is; they are what they are. And in the Saiga world, you have basically 5 choice. 1. Use factory 10 rounds saiga magazines. 2. Spend approximately $30 for a Surefire Magazine. 3. Put in a Dinzag bullet guide and then have the option of using many different magazines. Including promag, orlites, and many others. 4. Spend approximately $90-$100 an

They aren't poop. You're just NEW to this forum; and didn't do any researching here before buying the promags. If you had looked first, you'd see that you can make Promags work perfectly. And you can buy them in bulk for $10-$11 each. But you are correct. If you use them straight out of the package, the bullet guide is pretty much guaranteed to break off. But if you do a little search, you'll see that you can make them 100% reliable.

Filing down a Surefire magazine to fit in with a Dinzag bullet guide is retarded. If you're going to do that, just by Promag magazines. They're a lot less expensive, and you don't have to file anything down. Take your thumb, and the bullet guide on the Promag will snap right off. Why spend $25-$30 for a surefire magazine that you're going to purpose screw up, when you can spend $11-$12 for a Promag that doesn't require screwing up. Simply snap the tab. As for loading a Surefire magazine, it's real simple. Hold the magazine in one hand, hold a bullet in the other hand, push the bullet down

Definitely "TRY" shooting the 75 grain bullet in your rifle???? You might find that it shoots perfectly. Depending on what you plan on doing with the rifle, many of the "Twist vs Bullet weight" comments are way too over rated. Matter of fact; the correct answer whenever anyone mentioned the twist of their rifle, and what ammo to use, should be: "Try it and find out". Any other answer is incorrect. Why? Because no two rifles are the same, and there is no firm law that says it won't work. And it's not possible to hurt anything, so the answer is: "Try it for yourself and find out".

That’s not really true. A lot of the 80 grain stuff out there requires a throated chamber. If you try 80 grain .223 / 5.56 in a non throated chamber, it will jam the bullet into the rifling. The bolt may not be fully closed, or if it does close, firing will create extremely high pressures. We're not talking about that. We're simply discussing the misconception that rifle twist vs bullet weight. There is nothing that a bullet's weight will have any negative impact on a gun because of the twist of the rifling. Non at all. I was simply taking the extreme bullet weight, and basically the extre

It doesn't matter what the twist of the rifle is; and it doesn't matter the weight of the bullets are. You simply shoot them and see if your rifle likes them or not. It's not like your rifle explodes or something if you put a 75 grain bullet in a 1:9 rifle. Hell; you can put an 80 grain bullet in a 1:10 and it's not going to hurt anything. Also realize; that most of the issues (Which is ONLY ACCURACY) is usually as pretty large distances. I say usually, because each gun is unique. At 100 yards, I can always hit my target, no matter what weight bullet it is shooting. And it doesn't matter if it

You are correct. However; realize that 1:7 is MORE twist than 1:9, 1:10, or 1:12. It means, that the twist, "The rifling groove gut" goes one complete revolution of the barrel, every 7 inches; 9 inches; 10 inches; 12 inches;. So yes, it is better to have TOO MUCH TWIST. Hence; a 1:7 is BETTER than a 1:12. Having said that; a 1:7 can have some issues with very light bullets such as 40 grain. Just like 1:9 or 1:10 can have issues with heavy bullets like 75-80 grain bullets. On a side note: If you look hard at buying ammo; especially retail; you'll find that 55 grain and 62 grain are the

You are in good shape. If I recall; there were some lots of saiga .223's built that didn't have the additional the additional nubs on the trunnion to stop them from accepting the other magazines. You apparently got one. Good for you. Congrats.