BaronVonBigmeat

I think it would be pretty difficult to fabricate the floorplates yourself, with just hand tools. The outline you could do...maybe. But then you'd have to cut out the square hole, which would require some very careful dremeling. Then, you'd have to fold over the sides and back, so it has a means of snapping into place, which would require a precision sheetmetal brake of some sort. All in all, they aren't as simple as they look. I guess that's why there aren't any US manufacturers making them. Ideally, you'd want a laser cutter, or a sheetmetal shear; and then a brake to fold the sides ove

That's the one I have. It has a hole in the bottom, but the cleaning rod isn't held in place by that hole, it's much too big. On a traditional AK, the cleaning rod is held in place by two things: the underside of the front sight block, and the underside of the gas block. The stock Saiga FSB and gas block are blank, and thus don't have any attachment points for a cleaning rod...even thought the gun comes with a cleaning rod.

I looked all over and all I could find was the link that vbrtmn posted. Seems kind of odd that such an easy way of gaining 922r compliance has been overlooked by suppliers. I guess you could try http://www.emachineshop.com/. Run a big batch, and sell to forum members or suppliers.

I am currently converting mine to a traditional wood stock AK. First, for the wood finishing, you probably want ironwood. For the actual finishing methods, do a search on these forums for sulphurman's posts. I'm currently finishing my wood stock per his instructions. It's looking good so far. All I will say about his finishing technique is, don't let the minwax walnut finish soak in for more than a minute or so. Five minutes is almost too long. Second, you'll need to replace the gas tube and get a lower handguard retainer, at the bare minimum. I got both of mine at carolina shooter's

From the looks of it, this rail goes on AK's that have the traditional 2-piece handguard. http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/popup.cfm?type=i&id=products/mi_akpu.jpg If you want a ready-to-go solution, carolina shooter supply has a bolt-on handguard retainer. I have this, but haven't installed it yet, so I can't say how well it works. The directions recommend dremeling a slight notch in the barrel, which makes me nervous. Google "stress concentration factor" if you want to know why.

I'm not familiar with that product, and they don't say what type of finish it is, so I can't comment on it. Duracoat is very popular because you just spray it on and let it dry, and there's a million different colors. However, let me recommend a DIY application of Moly Resin. If you're DIY enough to convert a Saiga, then you can coat it yourself too, especially if you have a decent air compressor. It's a phenolic epoxy coating that (from what I understand) is a good bit more durable than duracoat. I bought a cheapo $10 airbrush and $15 sandblaster from Harbor Freight to do mine. T

I am not familiar with RemOil but I've heard the part about WD-40 numerous times. Although the water displacement part could be useful if you are running corrosive milsurp. I've heard of people rinsing out the barrel with water and then chasing it with WD-40.

Wow, that's pretty impressive. Of course, tungsten has like...twice the density of lead, so I guess it makes sense. The video where they take those big nilgai antelope is what sells it--eight shots, eight rather quick deaths. Not that gelatin testing is worthless, but real world examples are better. And several of the shots were using .223, and none of them head shots. Only thing I have to wonder is: does that ruin the meat? I mean if you have tiny little bits of tungsten everywhere, shredding meat to a pulp. And if you ingest tungsten is it poisonous? Not that it's a concern for a self-de

I was reading about this myself. I found this article about rifle rounds for home defense a while back. Granted, it is aimed at the 5.56 crowd, but maybe their recommendation of Hornady extrapolates to the 7.62 as well? I'm not sure. The FBI recommendation for self-defense rounds is 12" I think. It could be more or less, depending on how skinny/fat/muscular your target is and where you hit them. This is why you don't use bird shot--it can create horiffic wounds, but there isn't enough penetration to hit vitals reliably. Your target might die or pass out, but not before shooting back.

A...Mosin-Nagant...bullpup? No, really...a bullpup...which has a...bolt-action? Isn't this foretold as a sign that the apocalpyse is imminent?

Yeah, but how do you put it back together? Is there a guide for making these yourself? For $30 I'll just buy one from CSS when they are back in stock, but I'm just curious.

Order a bullet guide to go with it. Assuming of course that you want the ability to use regular (read: cheaper, more reliable) military surplus mags.

Don't forget to throw in your gas tube and lower handguard retainer. You can't install wood on a Saiga without them.

Aside from IWD, there is also forum member BattleRifleG3. Looks like he mostly communicates through email these days. I'm not sure if he is still doing stocks or what, it's not a full time job for him. http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=9471 He does (or did?) wood sets in a wider variety than what is listed on IWD's website, but I have a feeling that you could probably get something not listed on IWD if you're willing to pay the right price.