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scattergun10

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Everything posted by scattergun10

  1. Very nice. Too bad I can't read Cyrillic, but I get the idea.
  2. Sorry, not to be too much of a dingaling, but I also like the before product better. The after is nice, and you obviously do fine work, but I would prefer the original configuration. It has more of that battle rifle look, which I like. The barrel is also too short on the after product in my opinion. Of course, opinions are like buttholes, everybody has one.
  3. I do. That's where I found the CTD deal on Uly. AmmoEngine.com is another, but I prefer the ones you mentioned, especially ammonow.com with the babes with guns pics.
  4. Cheaper Than Dirt has Uly for $179.50/1K. Don't know what part of NC your in, but I just typed in the zip for Asheville,NC 28801 (just as a reference) and the estimated shipping is $24.77, which is a little bit better. Brings the total after shipping to $204.27. Not bad IMO, and Uly is good stuff. Thanks for the heads up.. That's a great deal. I've actually been shooting nothing but Uly for months now. Found a good deal on 1k at a gun show, and I've been getting either 500 or 1k from Copes since. I get pretty good groups from it also. I finally ran into a bad round of Uly a coupl
  5. The K-VAR NATO stock is the longer of the two. The Tapco should be about the same length as the K-VAR Warsaw stock, which is about 1 1/4" shorter than the NATO. Since you mentioned the "classic" look, the Warsaw stock is what the original AK rifles had. Alot of people, including myself, prefer this length, finding the NATO stocks to be a bit too long.
  6. Nice job,looks great. Now,you just need to swap out that hideous PG for a Hogue AK grip.(you're welcome) You'll have to settle for black though,they don't make them in plumb.
  7. False. An AK,SKS,etc.were MADE to run steel case ammo. We're not talking about a Mini-30 here, which I can just about guarantee you will have issues with it, but an AK or SKS, will eat it like candy.
  8. Cheaper Than Dirt has Uly for $179.50/1K. Don't know what part of NC your in, but I just typed in the zip for Asheville,NC 28801 (just as a reference) and the estimated shipping is $24.77, which is a little bit better. Brings the total after shipping to $204.27. Not bad IMO, and Uly is good stuff.
  9. Nice boomstick. What kind of muzzle device is that you have on there ? At first glance, that looked like a sling attached to the handguard, then I realized you just had it propped up with a knife.
  10. I'm thinking of going deer hunting with my S-12. What slug do you find performs the best(accuracy wise)in your S-12 ? In the area I will be hunting,I figure the average shot I would take would be maybe 50 or 60 yards.(a little further maybe on rare occasion) Oh yeah,I will be using the factory sights.Yeah,I know,that's gonna up the challenge a bit. Thanks in advance.
  11. I was not aware of this. What is it about using the '74 brakes that would make the bolt carrier do that ? I've got a '74 brake on my SGL-20. I installed a recoil buffer also. Hopefully, that would help.
  12. 98/100 is horrible. 20 failures out of 1,000? You may get 1 out of 1,000 rounds of wolf. Personally I'd have tried them again. I recently had a 5.45x39 round (70's production surplus) that didn't fire. Rechambered it and it went bang. 1 out of 2,000~ rounds. This specific 5.45 AR I just bought and I need to check and see if the previous owner put the heavier spring in it... I put about 300~ rounds thru it. In any event, was the ammo from the same lot? Same box? I've only fired 100~ rounds of that ammo over the years. I've shot a 1,000 federal bird shot shells, never ha
  13. So, that's a 74 brake in the pic, not an AMD one, right ? BTW, what kind of ammo were you using there ? I want mine to make fireballs like that.
  14. I take it you don't have a threaded barrel since you mentioned the AMD brake, which I believe are pin-on, but if you do happen to have a threaded barrel, I would recommend a 74 brake.(a real 74 brake with 24mm threads and off-set gas ports, not the 74 style brakes with 14mm threads.) I got one on GB (U.S. made copy) for around $20 including shipping, and I can definitely tell a difference. It does a great job at reducing muzzle rise.
  15. Sounds like its the ammo to me, bad primers maybe. You mentioned the firing pin left good deep dents in the primers, so obviously you can rule out light primer strikes. Shotgun ammo primers(especially domestic)usually aren't very hard compared to say,rifle ammo (especially the foreign stuff) and it usually doesn't take as much to make them fire. Buy hey, 98/100 isn't bad at all really.
  16. I'm pretty sure it is a U.S. made copy. The notch that is cut in the brake where the front sight plunger pin (?) locks it in place makes it so that the gas ports line up slightly off-center to the right, but I wasn't sure if this was necessarily correct or not.
  17. Well I guess the logical answer would seem to be to line the gas ports up center with the from sight, but I could have swore I read somewhere (for whatever reason) that they should be slightly off center to the right. (if your looking at the brake from the butt end of the rifle) BTW, this a 24mm 74 brake with the off-set gas ports, not a 14mm 74 style brake, if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance.
  18. I would really like to get a Saiga .308, but from what I've seen here on the forums,to be quite honest,I'm less than impressed with its accuracy. It seems like in order to get decent groups you have use match grade type ammo. My 7.62X39 Saiga gets very good groups with the cheap Ruskie steel case stuff. Also,most of the range reports I've seen for the S-308 have been at ranges of 100-200 yards.(I can do that with my x39 easily) I would really like to see some data of groups at 500-600+ yards with this gun.(I mean, it's .308 for crying out loud) I want something that is going to perform we
  19. Thanks for all the replies, alot of great info. I'm definitely leaning towards the.308 now. I guess what I'm really looking for is more of a dual purpose rifle. A CQB rifle,(a less expensive version of an HK-G3/FN-FAL) and also something with the potential to really reach out and touch something. It's always nice to have that kind of versatility at your disposal.
  20. Which of these guns is the most accurate and flattest shooting at longer ranges ? I'm wanting another Saiga,(already have a 7.62x39) and am trying to decide which one to go with. I'm kind of leaning toward the .308 (16")because I figure it wins in the range department.(although from what I understand the 5.45 is no slouch either) BTW, I'm not interested in 5.56 in an AK. Thanks in advance.
  21. Cool video. Man,that's one fire breathin' SOB. The recoil didn't look bad at all,and you didn't even have a muzzle brake on it. I don't think there was any real danger in how you did the video. You never actually stepped in front of the muzzle, and like someone already mentioned, what's the gun going to do, fire on its own ? The only thing is the camera might get tagged with a few spent casings.
  22. I just looked on the K-VAR website where the RPK HG's are listed and toward the top of the page under "Handguards (Lower)", it says they "Will NOT fit .308 Rifles". I guess that means all the HG's listed on that page. Oops,nevermind. I was looking at the AK-74 style HG's.
  23. Nice work, looks good. What kind of buttstock is that ?
  24. I'm going to begin the conversion of my S-12 within the next week or so and am also going to refinish the entire receiver and barrel with a bake-on finish while I'm at it. I'm going to need to heat it to about 200 degrees. My question is are the stock sights and the mag release lever made of plastic or metal and can they withstand that much heat ? (don't want them melting on me if they're plastic) Are there any other parts that I need to be careful with around high heat ? Obviously,I'm going to remove all the furniture first,so that's not a concern. Thanks in advance.
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