Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 72Stick

  • Rank
  1. When will CS be receiving more of the non-vented Poly Chokes?
  2. 72Stick

    Chamber pressure

    SAAMI, that's the acronym I was trying to remember! Thanks for all the good info. I've been reloading pistol and rifle ammo for about a year. I just started researching reload data for shotguns and their a little different. I have powder data from Alliant and Hodgdon. Any suggestions on powder and wad combos for our S12s?
  3. 72Stick

    Chamber pressure

    Most guns have a max safe operating pressure in the chamber. I'm not sure if the gas block would have much effect on the chamber pressure. By the time the gas reaches the gas block the peak chamber pressure should have been reached. My concern is for the max safe chamber pressure at it's peak.
  4. Frosty, Your advice really makes sense. Also, your decision not to modify your S12s is one of the reasons I like this platform so much. It’s not as modular as an AR, but you can still “have it your way”. Like the AR, there are many options for this gun. I personally like mine the way I have it configured. Other folks have different ideas about how they want their S12s setup. In my book, that’s great! And then there’s the after market folks giving us all those options to choose from and that’s a win, win if I ever saw one. 72stick
  5. Thanks, Frosty! The Hodgdon TiteWad looks very interesting. The price is even lower than Red Dot. I was looking for a starting point to begin my load testing and a less expensive powder/shot combo is a bonus. I'm wondering if 7/8 or 1 oz. #8 shot will be enough to put down steel targets. I'm not too worried about clays. Even one bb on clay counts as a hit in tactical shotgun. Steel... not so much. Some of the stages have several steel poppers and/or plates that need solid hits to put them down. I bought this shotgun new in March. I tested it with several loads while it was stock. Once I new it was reliable I converted it myself. After the conversion it started having issues with FTE. I tried all the tricks to make it run reliably after I converted it. I re-contoured the face of the Tapco hammer and the bottom of the bolt carrier. I rounded the edge of the extractor notch in the chamber and buffed every thing that moved. So I can load a mag on a closed bolt I re-contoured the bottom of the bolt. None of these mods seemed to help. I was still having 1 or 2 FTE out of every mag. I talked to another Saiga competitor at my second match using my Saiga jam-omatic. He told me you gotta open the ports to make it reliable. He was right. I fashioned a press out of a piece of flat steel and anchored it to the wall to remove the gas block. That sucker was hard to remove. I drilled the 3 ports out to 3/32nds and used a shotgun cleaning patch loop with a piece of medium grade wet/dry sandpaper on the end of the rod to polish out the burs in the barrel. I chucked it up in my Makita drill and marked off the distance to the ports with a piece of tap on the rod. After drilling out the ports and polishing the burs the gun came alive! It eats anything I pick up at WM under $5 a box. 72stick
  6. Does anybody know where I can find the max chamber pressure for the S12?
  7. Looking at your picture, it appears your ports in in the right location and ARE NOT being blocked by the gas block. If you look closely you will see a circle on the barrel from carbon and what not. As long as your ports are within that circle your good to go. As for porting, and since you have the room above the top two ports, I would add a port at 5/64" and also run the 5/64" holes that you already have (but three holes at 3/32" is fine too). Just take you a center punch, make a divot, start the drill bit straight until it catches and then turn it to a 45 degree angle to punch through. After your done sizing all your ports, I would run a fine flex hone to remove any burrs created in drilling the new holes. That's what I need, a fine flex hone to remove those pesky burs! Unfortunately, they're $65 at Brownell's. I took the cheap route and used a drill with a cleaning rod and a patch loop with some 2000 grit sandpaper. It worked like a champ. I made a top end run to the range and fired for effect. Darn if it didn't work perfectly. After 75 rounds no nylon from the shot cups and very little fouling crud in the gas block on setting 2. Man, this Saiga12 runs better every time I take it to the range.
  8. I'm not an expert, but my 3 port gun works so much better since I opened the ports up to 3/32nds. The trouble with drilling out the ports is removing the burs in the bore. I didn't try to buff or polish the burs and the nylon from the shot cup clogged the gas block up after it finally cooled off. I ran 125 rounds of anything and everything through it I had as fast as I could reload and it never failed once to eject all the shot cases and they flew a long way when they came out. It was really hard to get the nylon build up out of the gas block. I took some torch cleaning tips to the ports and used a brass cleaning rod in the bore to scrap the burs off. Then I used a brass brush on the cleaning rod with a drill to polish the bore. I think I've removed the burs, but I haven't taken it back to the range. I have a 3gun match I'm shooting this weekend and I'll try it there. Regardless of how much crud does or doesn't build up in the gas block, it's well worth the change in reliability.
  9. 72Stick

    Under Gassed

    Who's making a reliable LRBHO these days?
  10. 72Stick

    Under Gassed

    I was using #6 high brass and that stuff put the steel down with authority... when the gun functioned. The matches I go to don't allow anything larger than #6. Some of the Benelli guys were using #7.5 or #8 bird shot with a choke. Now that I have a gun that will cycle anything, I'm thinking about looking into a choke.
  11. 72Stick

    Under Gassed

    I went to my second 3gun match with the Saiga12 last weekend. There was another shooter there with a Saiga12. His gun ran perfectly. Mine, not so much. He said his started running consistantly once the gas ports were opened up. I've done all the tricks to mine except opening the gas ports. I tried to remove the gas block once before with no luck. That sucker is really on there tight. This time I made a press from a piece of 1/8" flat steel and attached it to the wall about 15 inches off the floor. This gave me the mechanical leverage I needed to really put some pressure on the gas block. I still had to tap the lever on the press till it came off. What a pain. I drilled out the ports (3 on this gun) and opened up the hole in the gas block. I took it to the range after I put it all back together. I ran 125 rounds of high brass, low brass, steel shot, lead shot from #4 up to #7.5 loads and it ran perfect!!! Finally!!!!!
  12. Took it to the range with OEM puck installed and it ran noticeably better. Still not 100% on Fed bulk shells. I measured the bore and both pistons. The bore is .828. The old piston puck is .825 & the US made ppiston is .824. After reading up on thermal dynamics it appears the a cylinder gets looser as it heats up and the piston expands relatively larger but not quite at the same rate. So, the .001 difference cold could be larger when hot. This would account for the increased fouling of the US made puck. Now if I can just figure out what I need the do to make it 100% reliable I'll be golden. I saw some one is using tourch tip cleaning rods to clear the ports. I did that also. It appears I can hog out the ports with the cleaning tips by a few thousands. Oh boy, another reason to go to the range.
  13. I took it to the range late yesterday. Tried # 6,7.5 & 8. It was unreliable with all shells, stocepiping at lease once every mag. The failure to go into battery didn't come back after cleaning and lube. I stuck a spent shell in and cycled the action. The only way I can see it could stovepipe would be short stroking the bolt carrier. I got it home and found the gas puck stuck in it's bore. There's always a lot of fouling in the gas port section and my US made gas puck fits much tighter than the OEM. I going to try using the OEM puck next time.
  14. The short answer is no. During the match, I didn't think of it. I wish I had. Funny how when the buzzer goes off your game plan goes out the window and that's when everything is working as advertised. Toss in a glitch and it really gets messy. Had I reset the gas valve I would have gained some valuable data. I'm planning on taking it to the range this weekend and running several deferent shot loads through it to see where I am with the cycling and ejecting. This was my first match using the S12, Before the match, I thought I had it running reliably. But, that was using #7.5 & 8 shot. I didn't think the going to #6 shot would make a difference. Now I'm second-guessing everything.
  • Create New...