72Stick

When will CS be receiving more of the non-vented Poly Chokes?

SAAMI, that's the acronym I was trying to remember! Thanks for all the good info. I've been reloading pistol and rifle ammo for about a year. I just started researching reload data for shotguns and their a little different. I have powder data from Alliant and Hodgdon. Any suggestions on powder and wad combos for our S12s?

Most guns have a max safe operating pressure in the chamber. I'm not sure if the gas block would have much effect on the chamber pressure. By the time the gas reaches the gas block the peak chamber pressure should have been reached. My concern is for the max safe chamber pressure at it's peak.

Frosty, Your advice really makes sense. Also, your decision not to modify your S12s is one of the reasons I like this platform so much. It’s not as modular as an AR, but you can still “have it your way”. Like the AR, there are many options for this gun. I personally like mine the way I have it configured. Other folks have different ideas about how they want their S12s setup. In my book, that’s great! And then there’s the after market folks giving us all those options to choose from and that’s a win, win if I ever saw one. 72stick

Thanks, Frosty! The Hodgdon TiteWad looks very interesting. The price is even lower than Red Dot. I was looking for a starting point to begin my load testing and a less expensive powder/shot combo is a bonus. I'm wondering if 7/8 or 1 oz. #8 shot will be enough to put down steel targets. I'm not too worried about clays. Even one bb on clay counts as a hit in tactical shotgun. Steel... not so much. Some of the stages have several steel poppers and/or plates that need solid hits to put them down. I bought this shotgun new in March. I tested it with several loads while it was stock

Does anybody know where I can find the max chamber pressure for the S12?

Looking at your picture, it appears your ports in in the right location and ARE NOT being blocked by the gas block. If you look closely you will see a circle on the barrel from carbon and what not. As long as your ports are within that circle your good to go. As for porting, and since you have the room above the top two ports, I would add a port at 5/64" and also run the 5/64" holes that you already have (but three holes at 3/32" is fine too). Just take you a center punch, make a divot, start the drill bit straight until it catches and then turn it to a 45 degree angle to punch through. After

I'm not an expert, but my 3 port gun works so much better since I opened the ports up to 3/32nds. The trouble with drilling out the ports is removing the burs in the bore. I didn't try to buff or polish the burs and the nylon from the shot cup clogged the gas block up after it finally cooled off. I ran 125 rounds of anything and everything through it I had as fast as I could reload and it never failed once to eject all the shot cases and they flew a long way when they came out. It was really hard to get the nylon build up out of the gas block. I took some torch cleaning tips to the po

Who's making a reliable LRBHO these days?

I was using #6 high brass and that stuff put the steel down with authority... when the gun functioned. The matches I go to don't allow anything larger than #6. Some of the Benelli guys were using #7.5 or #8 bird shot with a choke. Now that I have a gun that will cycle anything, I'm thinking about looking into a choke.

I went to my second 3gun match with the Saiga12 last weekend. There was another shooter there with a Saiga12. His gun ran perfectly. Mine, not so much. He said his started running consistantly once the gas ports were opened up. I've done all the tricks to mine except opening the gas ports. I tried to remove the gas block once before with no luck. That sucker is really on there tight. This time I made a press from a piece of 1/8" flat steel and attached it to the wall about 15 inches off the floor. This gave me the mechanical leverage I needed to really put some pressure on the gas block.

Took it to the range with OEM puck installed and it ran noticeably better. Still not 100% on Fed bulk shells. I measured the bore and both pistons. The bore is .828. The old piston puck is .825 & the US made ppiston is .824. After reading up on thermal dynamics it appears the a cylinder gets looser as it heats up and the piston expands relatively larger but not quite at the same rate. So, the .001 difference cold could be larger when hot. This would account for the increased fouling of the US made puck. Now if I can just figure out what I need the do to make it 100% reliable I'll be golden

I took it to the range late yesterday. Tried # 6,7.5 & 8. It was unreliable with all shells, stocepiping at lease once every mag. The failure to go into battery didn't come back after cleaning and lube. I stuck a spent shell in and cycled the action. The only way I can see it could stovepipe would be short stroking the bolt carrier. I got it home and found the gas puck stuck in it's bore. There's always a lot of fouling in the gas port section and my US made gas puck fits much tighter than the OEM. I going to try using the OEM puck next time.

The short answer is no. During the match, I didn't think of it. I wish I had. Funny how when the buzzer goes off your game plan goes out the window and that's when everything is working as advertised. Toss in a glitch and it really gets messy. Had I reset the gas valve I would have gained some valuable data. I'm planning on taking it to the range this weekend and running several deferent shot loads through it to see where I am with the cycling and ejecting. This was my first match using the S12, Before the match, I thought I had it running reliably. But, that was using #7.5 & 8 shot. I did