deputydog95
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Posts posted by deputydog95
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I hope the pics help. That's as good as I could make them. It tough photographic this stuff as if you use too much light it gets way too reflective.
Let me know what you guys think.
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Ok. I'm at my wits end with this thing. I was at my buddies house yesterday to look it over. I think I described that the bolt was locked forward, but its actually locked back. That stupid BHO plate has popped up and won't the action come forward. The spring has come off it and is poking through the BHO button hole.
We've tried everything and can't get it to budge. This is exhausting. Suggestions? Besides throwing this thing in a dumpster
You can see the marks from the screwdriver we were using with a hammer to attempt to push the plate back and down. No dice. I have the retention plate and modified BHO plate waiting to go in if I could ever get this stupid thing apart again....
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Trick for holding BHO spring in place while installing pin.
Run a loop of fishing line through it and out the bottom of the BHO slot, pull down and to side.
If the BHO lever is stuck inside the receiver and likely along the rail, pop the dust cover off and use a tool to move it back down into place.
Then you can disassemble as normal.
Retainer plate or wire retainer, e.g. shepherds crook, is the retainer which holds the axis pins in place, preventing them from slipping out.
It is on the left side of the receiver opposite the BHO.
The fishing line is genius!!!
Although we found the shepherds crook was a bitch to get in there too. Any tricks for that?
He got the dust cover off. Now we just need a tool that will fit in there to try and get the BHO plate down and back under the rail.
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Am I the only one that had no problems whatsoever simply re-using the stock BHO with the conversion?
It would seem that way
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If all you need to do is put the spring leg back on the BHO you can do that without removing anything. You just need one of these...
You can put a 90 degree bend in the end of the spring leg to help keep it from coming off again. Use hemostats or needle nose pliers.
We put a bend on the spring, as well as put a notch on the bho to keep it from sliding off.
I think spartacus might be on to something with there being too much slop between the bho and axis point on the hammer. The bho moving in and then up above the rail would explain why the bho button went up into the receiver and why we now can't move the bolt back.
Question is.... What do we do next? We're stuck as we can't access anything with the bolt stuck int the forward position.
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If too much is removed from the side of the hammer axis (clearance for the BHO plate), you will have a bit of side to side slop on the hammer. That can provide enough room for the BHO plate to slip past the rail and then the button disappears inside the receiver like what you have.
Once you get everything apart, check for the side to side movement on the hammer. Shim it up with thin washers if you need to and that should help prevent the problem.
We used the tromix FCG. Which is supposedly pre modifed so we didn't dremel anything off. Is it possible that there is too much material removed by tromix?
Step one. We need to figure out how to get this damn apart first
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Did you modify the BHO when you converted the S-12 or did you buy a modified BHO from CSS.
We reused the stock bho and filed a small notch in the tab where the spring sits to keep it from sliding off. How it came off I have no idea....
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Remove dust cover and remove retainer wire/plate and remove the PIN..
Quickest option.. I think..
Al
Do you have a pic or anything? I have no idea what the retainer wire/plate is....
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So a friend and I have been converting my 12 with parts from Greg at CSS. Not the easiest thing we've ever done, but certainly not the hardest either. Trick is to not rush it and take your time. I'm certain we could do another in probably half the time now that we're through the learning curve.
Well most of the curve anyway. Per gregs instructions, we filed a groove in the bolt hold open lever arm to prevent the hold open lever spring from slipping off. Everything seemed fine, although it's a bitch to get that damn axis pin through the center of the spring without it slipping off.
Anyway, that's where I left off with him. The FCG and everything else was in. All that was left to do was to put the bolt/carrier back in and put a few rounds through it.
Well, he got the gun reverse field stripped with no problems.
However, when he went to test the bolt hold open button, it basically went into the receiver and is now stuck in there. To add to the situation, the bolt will not go back to the rear so we can't strip it down to figure out what happened.
I haven't personally seen what he did yet, but he's a pretty hand AR gunsmith and all around a braniac. He's a lot smarter than I am so I trust there wasn't an error on his part
Any suggestions? We're kind of stuck at this point. I'm not sure if that spring somehow came off or what.
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We're about 9/10's through the conversion process, to include installing a receiver block for a side folder. Wow, this is a bitch
It's definitely not a 2 hour project. The whole thing is pretty involved. To do it again would probably go much quicker, but I found the learning curve pretty steep. The tolerances are so loose that many of the parts don't just snap in due to alignment issues. I'm looking forward to the reduced size. If we finish today, test fire at the range will be a must. -
Subscribed.
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Are there any videos that deal with the conversion process? I'm think I'm going to do this. I'm really dissatisfied with just how long this rifle is. Converted with a side folder would make it very manageable when stored. As it sits now, even with the T6 collapsible stock, it's huge!!!
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Wow...this topic will truly never go away. I had started this exact topic last year that ran for months...and now the same thing is showing up.
I would love to get my hands on one of these. In fact I even got a PM from the owner of the company mentioning getting one.
Nothing ever materialized. I hate to say this, (I truly do) but I have a strong suspicion that this is vaporware.
~Jase
That's my concern as well. The owner contacted me about putting a deposit down. Seems a little sketchy to say the least. I looked and looked on the web, but could only find discussion about this setup, but no actual owners yet. I was hoping somebody had managed to get their hands on it to give a full review. Nothing so far I guess....
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So has anyone managed to actually get one of these yet?
I know there has been a lot of talk on here, but I can't seem to find anyone that has had one actually delivered and installed yet.
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Deputy- I assure you those are definitely angled towards the receiver. If you look close enough into the ports you'll see the angle of the port pointing towards the receiver.
Maybe it's just the shadowing with the pic. If you look at the holes, the bottom part of the hole is light gray and appears to be metal angled in towards the muzzle. The top part of the hole is dark and appears to facing towards the barrel.
Probably just a weird optical illusion with the lighting.
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Is it the picture, or are the ports actually angled towards the muzzle? I'm confused. It certainly looks that way but you noted that they are angled towards the receiver.
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Great stuff Erik. I live in Dunedin. Any chance you could give me a tutorial on some of this stuff in person? I'm a little nervous about taking this gun apart
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Got it. Thanks!
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I've done a search on here and haven't been able to answer my question.
I understand the basic concept. Setting 1= less gas for magnum load and Setting 2= more gas for low brass ammo
The part that I don't understand is that when you fully seat the gas plug, it stops between setting 1 and 2. When you unscrew it, it first click stops on setting 2. You must then press the release button so that you can continue to unscrew it to get to setting 1.
Now if you want to go to setting 2, do you unscrew it (counter clockwise) or screw it back in (clockwise)?
I know, weird question. Couldn't find an answer in the manual either.
What is confusing is where the threads start and stop, and this is completely random. There is no absolute starting position for the plug, and no reliable stopping position. So, where it starts threading in, and stops or "bottoms out" is not relevant to to operation of the gun as long as the gas plug is in the proper position in between these points.
Generally, you want the gas plug screwed in as far as possible when on setting one or two. If you are on setting one, and the plugs bottoms out before you get to setting two, back it out to get to setting two.
Hope this is helpful!
Then in my case, I would be actually screwing it back in to get to setting 2 since my clicks into 2 first after being fully seated? Right? I think.... I'm confused
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I've done a search on here and haven't been able to answer my question.
I understand the basic concept. Setting 1= less gas for magnum load and Setting 2= more gas for low brass ammo
The part that I don't understand is that when you fully seat the gas plug, it stops between setting 1 and 2. When you unscrew it, it first click stops on setting 2. You must then press the release button so that you can continue to unscrew it to get to setting 1.
Now if you want to go to setting 2, do you unscrew it (counter clockwise) or screw it back in (clockwise)?
I know, weird question. Couldn't find an answer in the manual either.
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Well having wood like you do is a great start. Basically just pick a hand, apply lube and go to work, even strokes, slow yet firm. You can increase speed as you need based on how close you are to climax/completion. One important thing to consider and this is important because a lot of people tend to do this, (more than you would think) do not by any means neglect the nuts while polishing the bolt. You will be amazed at how fast this brings the task to completion. Hope this helps and good luck. Oh and uh...pics or it didn't happen.
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I was playing around with the rifle some more this afternoon. Oddly enough the puck will not fall out of the gas block. It moves freely when you push it in against the piston. You can push the action back a bit. However, when you till the gun down, the puck will freely move till it gets to the threads for the gas plug. Is this just a break in issue? I'll keep the dowel handy in the meantime
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I looked today and I have a 3 port gun.
One port is dead center, and the other two are very close to the edge of the gas block towards the muzzle. I originally couldn't see the other two until I ran a paper clip around and it hooked into the holes. Moving the flashlight around I finally spotted them. They are literally right on the edge. I guess it doesn't matter though as long as they are in the gas block "hole".
Anyway, these ports are super small. They appear to be larger at the opening and then get very small as they go down towards the barrel. So small that I can't get a small paper clip in there. I would have though it would have been an even hole all the way through to the barrel. Is that normal? Also, I thought it odd that when I shined a flashlight into the gas block I could not see light in the barrel. The gun seems to cycle pretty well on setting 2 with walmart ammo so I'm not freaking out about this.
I ran into a major snag with my conversion.... Need some assistance
in Saiga-12
Posted
Thanks for the replies. I got pissed off and took it to a gsmith today at lunch. It just wasn't budging and I didn't want to break anything. I'm not really that handy and I was starting to go all gorilla on it.
He's familiar with the AK platform so he should have no problem fixing this. He looked at it and instantly knew what had happened. He didn't tell me how he was going to fix it, but then again if he did why would I have to pay him?
Such a nuisance. Thanks again for the advice. I'll post back when its all squared away.