Casp
-
Content Count
259 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Casp
-
-
Yeah, I'd definitely call it a novice mistake for anyone who owns an AR-15 barrel nut wrench. I agree and hope he does replace the barrel for you rather than trying to hack-job it.
FYI, installing a heavier recoil buffer, at least an H3 if not heavier (I assume you have a collapsible, carbine stock,) would slow the bolt group way down. That improves reliability in general, but in your case in particular the slower bolt won't hit the cartridges in the magazine so hard, so the bullet noses won't dip so far down and they should hit the feed ramps on the barrel rather than the receiver. Excessive bolt speed is the reason they started cutting the feed ramps lower on the M4 to begin with. Still, the lip there creates a possible hangup point that I wouldn't want to leave unaddressed.
-
Ouch. Yeah. Standard extension with M4-cut upper is a bad thing. Whoever assembled that and sold it that way should be ashamed. There are ways to make the gun feed reliably in spite of having janked-up ramps like that, but I'd still consider it unacceptable. Either the barrel or the upper forging itself has to be replaced.
-
Hah! Yeah, about like that. Anyway, bumptotop.
-
Wednesday bump. Sorry for neglecting this, I've been passed out on Nyquil with the plague for the last four days.
-
Thursday BumpToTop.
-
I recently fell into possession of a Chaos 13" extended quad-rail for the Saiga-12. This is the one with the solid, single-piece top rail and no sights. Since I don't have a Saiga to stick it on, and I don't particularly like quads, I'm not really interested in hanging onto it.
The previous owner had a black enamel finish put on to make it "more closely match the color of the gun" (his statement, not mine,) and because he didn't like how bright the "CHAOS U.S.A." insignias appeared. The insignia lettering is still clearly visible. It also appears he had to trim the rear-lower receiver key very slightly to make it fit the gun. Cursory inspection reveals only one scuff mark, located inside a groove on the right rail. All screws are included, and are not buggered out.
Asking $120 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. Pay by PayPal or USPS money order. PM if interested.
Now with photos! The first two photos were taken with flash on to give a better impression of condition, while the next four were taken with natural light only to give a better impression of the color. Unfortunately the natural lighting sucks as it's pouring rain outside right now, but I did the best I could. The last photo was with flash off and had the brightness and contrast altered so you can more clearly see what's going on with the receiver lug.
-
1
-
-
Updated (with prices for parting out rather than the whole kit) and bumped.
-
I'm parting out my M4. (I originally wanted to just sell it as a kit minus lower but everyone is asking me to part it out so whatever.) Runs like gangbusters, but right now I need the money more than the weapon. Sucks to have to give it up.
Note: I am cross-posting this at other forums. I will keep this post updated to reflect what happens elsewhere...
Here's what's up for sale:
Complete Bravo Company upper receiver assembly - 16" SOCOM profile barrel (SOCOM profile = heavy profile with provisions for mounting M203), carbine-length gas system. 100% milspec (other than being 16") with less than 500 rounds through it. Note that the rear portion of the barrel has some finish worn off due to the MOE heat shield having to flex around the very wide barrel when being installed or removed. Some of the rubber is also worn off the forward sling swivel because of the steel MASH-hook on my sling. - $350 - I can separate the barrel from the upper and sell them separately, but I'd very much rather not have to.
SOLD - Complete Bravo Company milspec M16 bolt-carrier group - $110 - SOLD
SOLD - Bravo Co. standard forged charging handle - $15 - SOLD
Colt rail-mounted detachable carry handle and rear sight - $50
DSA forged milspec 6-position carbine receiver extension (buffer tube/stock tube) with castle nut, recoil spring, standard 3oz recoil buffer, and (unused) standard receiver endplate - $30
Bravo Co. heavy H3 (5.4oz) recoil buffer - $30
Magpul OD green MOE carbine buttstock - $35
Magpul OD green MOE handguards (some wear inside heat shield due to rubbing against heavy barrel) - $15
Packaged together: Magpul OD green MOE polymer trigger guard and a (Cavalry Arms I think) OD green A2 pistol grip - $10
SOLD - Del-Ton lower parts kit (with standard trigger guard and black A2 grip) - $45 - SOLD
Payment accept by PayPal (transaction will be marked as "machine parts") or by USPS money order. PM if interested.
--CSM
-
Rock River is fine, as good as anything else in the world of 9mm ARs. CMMG might be a little better but the thing is no one really puts any effort into the overall reliability or workmanship of RO635 clones because no one really uses them as combat weapons anymore, just range toys. In any case a solid, dedicated 9mm lower like what you got is generally better than using a drop-in magazine adapter in a standard lower.
The one thing I would recommend above all else (regardless of what manufacturer you go with) is go to Slash's Heavy Buffers (I would link if it weren't against the rules here, just use Google) and pick up the 8.5 ounce 9mm-Q buffer for it ($75). It's a big improvement on the longevity of the weapon. 9mm ARs in general tend to cycle WAY too hard with the standard buffer (and I do mean the standard 5.6oz 9mm buffer, not the 3oz carbine buffer) and they generally compensate for that by putting a much longer ramp on the bottom of the bolt to recock the hammer more gradually and not slam it down as hard. Also, the standard length buffer lets the 9mm bolt go way too far back, and the momentum it develops when returning forward can snap the bolt catch off when it locks open on the last round. (This of course not an issue with most modified Uzi mags.) The 9mm-Q buffer is both longer and heavier to compensate for these problems.
I should point out that technically it doesn't take Uzi magazines, it takes Colt RO635 magazines, and RRA happens to include an Uzi mag that has been modified to work in the Colt design. They aren't cheap but it may behoove you to buy some actual Colt-style mags for it. I know Spike's Tactical carries them.
-
the stock.....there is a backwards R next to the crossbolt, an O in a diamond, a P by the buttplate, 2 weird lookin 6 in circles, and what looks like a line in an O.
Not that this actually helps you any, but some clarification on the Russian Cyrillic alphabet:
Я = Ya
Р = R
б = b (lower case; upper case looks like Б)
Ф = F
-
(Still brainstorming)
In terms of diagnosing the problem, the only things that should cause an autoloader to shortstroke are:
- Insufficient gas (not enough pressure, not enough dwell time, blocked port, gas leak, underpowered ammunition, undersized bullets)
- Moving mass (bolt/carrier group) too heavy
- Recoil spring too powerful
- Too much binding friction on moving parts (filthy, no lube)
Gas dwell time, bolt group weight and spring power can all be pretty safely ruled out on a stock SKS, and I assume the gun is clean and oiled. Have you tried different ammunition? Only other thing I can think of is the possibility that the new gas regulator you bought is just as out of spec as the old one.
.......it's about 2am, I should probably sleep.
- Insufficient gas (not enough pressure, not enough dwell time, blocked port, gas leak, underpowered ammunition, undersized bullets)
-
A temporary fix I've seen a few people do is form a washer of sorts out of a paperclip and stick it between the gas valve and the end of the cylinder to take up the gap; it makes the gun run but doesn't last very long. That's what I was thinking originally, but I wanted to look around and double check since it's been a few years and my memory likes to play tricks on me.
You say you got a replacement valve and that didn't fix the problem? Was it the one from CNC Warrior? That's the only thing that comes to mind. you can try wrapping paper around the gas cylinder and block to see if it shows a leak anywhere (propellant gas leaking from anywhere on the gun should leave pretty obvious burns on the paper,) but a leak in the cylinder itself seems pretty unlikely.
Edited for my own stupidity and not re-reading the OP
-
You're far from being the only person who's had this problem. The Yugo SKS's have a little bit of a reputation for having a leaky gas block. Sadly, off the top of my head I don't remember how to fix it, but I'll do some digging real quick and let you know.
-
As far the piston bullshit- I'm a diehard piston guy, that's why I bought this rifle, to test my opinion. (I hate having opinions without at least understanding and testing what the other guys say) No pistons will be used on it, I'm given an honest effort to make myself a good direct impingement rifle.
Thank you for restoring a little bit of my faith in human intelligence!
I don't think you'll be disappointed.-
1
-
-
-1 for the Badger TacLatch (and the Gasbuster and any of those other designs), +1 for the BCM Gunfighter. You'll eventually rip the roll pin out of your charging handle with the Badger. If I were a real life high speed low drag tacti-cool operator and shot wearing gloves 90% of the time, then I'd run the Gunfighter. I'm not, and I find that the serrations on the front of the latch tear up my fingers something fierce so I just use the standard charging handle, but beyond that the BCMG is a quality product. Also, as others have said, you can't go wrong with the PRS. (In part because it means I don't have to bitch at you about recoil buffer weight.
)I'll give the Bushmaster Predator upper 8/10 but their bolt carrier group only 5.5/10.
Make sure you stake everything needing staking BTW.The only thing that needs staking is the castle nut holding on the buffer tube, and that only applies to carbine buffer tubes. The PRS stock uses a rifle buffer and tube so that's a non-issue. The only other things that need staking are the screws holding the gas key onto the bolt carrier, and those should come that way from the factory (no guarantees on that with a Bushmaster BCG.)
-
And hell yeah his grandma could shoot that. Women today are not as tough as the previous generation.
Those are fightin' words, son.
-
A lot of people and organizations like to make the ammunition a condition of your warranty; that is, fire steel-case Silver Bear or Wolf in it, and your warranty is void. Some sort of irrational paranoia about the interaction between extractors and steel cases. My own M4 (Bravo Co.) has fired a handful of rusty, dirt-covered Wolf .223 picked up off the ground at the range and had zero problems firing and cycling them (besides one misfire.)
Regarding sights, I don't know what to tell you, other than the obligatory "if you buy cheap shit, all you'll have is shit." I had a stand-alone A4 rear sight made by NCstar, cost me $30 and wouldn't clamp down tight on the rail, lots of forward-and-back play. I got a plain old Colt M4 carry handle (actual Colt manufacture) off eBay for $50 and it works just fine. The only stipulation is that I had to take it apart and clean the sand out of it after it made its trip back from Iraq. I agree with Shooter on the Daniel Defense and Troy sights, they are known for good quality and the sights do look pretty nice.
In terms of reliability and how good your rifle will be: there is better quality stuff out there than Spikes but they aren't bad, and there's a LOT of much worse quality stuff available. I give your pick an 8.5 out of 10.
I have only one question: what kind of buttstock do you have? If it's a fixed M16 rifle type stock, you'll have zero problems. If it's a collapsible/telescopic carbine stock (which I assume it is because no one likes fixed stocks anymore) take a look at your recoil buffer. If it doesn't say H3 on the face, you should replace it with one that does* (Bravo Company sells them for about $40); you won't regret it - that's the key to making your rifle run reliably. (Please oh please don't buy into the gas piston conversion kit bullshit!)*And yes, I consider Spike's ST-T2 buffer to be not heavy enough.
-Katemonster
-
3
-
-
I really do wish there were a way to find out who carried it and in what battles...
-
Before anyone bitches at me about messing with an old rifle, it's a 1943 Izhevsk force-matched refurb and has NO collectible value. Aside from that, the only thing I'm doing is glass and pillar bedding it and counterboring the muzzle to get it to shoot straight. I'm not doing any external, visible modifications except maybe down the road installing a click-adjustable rear sight.
Just thought some people might like to know, for future reference: 1/4" nominal brass pipe from your local tardware store makes perfect pillar bedding material for the Mosin action. It fits perfectly around the screws.
-
I think I'm going to have to go again to try to get something significantly less touchy-feely than this one...
-
1
-
-
leave it alone americansWhat in hell are you even talking about?
-
As I understand it there was kind of a good reason for this policy. Aside from the For Sale ad implications, it makes sure hypocritical people stay looking hypocritical, or something like that I suppose.
-
Also +1 for the 1/7 twist it is the was to go. 1/9 is what alot of companys sell witch is fine for 55gr but for 62gr steelcore or 75gr match wont stablize at distances.
1:9 in a 20" barrel is fine for 62gr, that's what the M16A2/A4 is and shoots. For a shorter barrel 1:7 is better.
Noveske is nice but the barrels are polygonally rifled stainless, so that's a no-go if you want to go totally milspec as in the OP. That's another thing I forgot to mention, the proper milspec barrel for an AR is 4150 chrome-moly-vanadium steel, not 4140 chrome-moly which is what a lot of the middle- to lower-end manufacturers use. Also a lot of companies seem to think that chrome lining is optional and charge you an extra $45 for it.
I know Bushmaster's barrels are 4150 chrome-lined but I don't think they are all HP/MP proof tested.
One last thing remember you get what you pay for if you buy junk all you will have is junk.+1000
By the way, a direct clone of a Colt 971 made from BCM parts as I described up above would run you $900 to $1k. I built mine for just over $1k but I have a few fancy-pants Magpul parts on it.
-
+1 to BCM and to assembling your own lower.
You definitely want to get the BCM M16 carrier group. The bolt is HP/MP tested, the gas key screws are properly staked, and the bolt is shot-peened (something almost none of the other manufacturers besides Colt do.)
Make sure that the buffer tube and buttstock are milspec, NOT commercial spec. Commercial spec buffer tubes are softer extruded aluminum and have undersized threads. Most commercially available buffer tubes (milspec and commercial) have 6 stop positions for the buttstock, but the correct USGI tube only has 4 stops; the ones with 6 stops are like on the Israeli M4 clone. Be sure to stake the receiver end plate into the castle nut; it only takes a minute and one of these. For best reliability, put an H3 buffer in it. For more on why and what happens if you don't, read this starting at the big bold sentence in the middle of the post.
BCM also sells complete uppers minus handguards in most stock configurations you can think of. The one you want for closest to USGI M4 is the 14.5" Gov't profile barrel with carbine-length gas system (not midlength) the permanently attached A2X flash hider. The A2X is longer than the standard A2 flash hider to meet minimum length req. Alternatively, for a current generation M4A1, you can get the SOCOM profile barrel instead of the Gov't profile, but it's quite a bit heavier as it's supposed to be used more or less like an RPK (it's awesome but I'm kind of wishing I had got the A1 lightweight profile now...
)Also for that real M4 look/feel/smell, make sure you get the oval-profile, double heat shield M4 handguards, not the round, single heat shield CAR-15/GAU-5 handguards. You may be tempted by dark forces to use a SOPMOD RIS forend. Don't! ....only because I hate quadrail systems the way most AK fans hate the AR.
For your sights of course you could always get an ACOG or Aimpoint M3 or M4 sight and some folding rear iron, but if you go with the rail-mounted carry handle make sure you get one that is forged, not a cheap-ass cast Chinese one from UTG or the like. You can get a good price on a good handle by looking on eBay and the gun auction sites for Colt M4 carry handles that were brought home from Iraq and Afghanistan. Although on the other hand I had to disassemble the rear sight on mine to get all the sand out of it...
Edited for coherency and spelling.
-
1
-
Anyone ever seen the Intrepid Ras12 Shotgun?
in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Posted · Edited by Caspian Sea Monster
Speak for yourself. My familiar platform is the AR, not the AK, and I've been waiting for something like this to exist for years. I would like it better if it were DGI instead of short-stroke, but I'm still sold. (Remind me again why I'm a member here?) Proprietary ammo is a huge gamble but I hope they pull it off. Molding the whole shell out of plastic should help keep initial production cost down, I would think, and it isn't like that hasn't been done with standard 12ga shells before.
Edit: I'm a lot more interested in this than I ever was in the MKA-1919.