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Arnisandyz

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Everything posted by Arnisandyz

  1. Hanguard looks ilike a dragunov modified to fit?
  2. They carry bipods at your friendly neighborhood drug store? All we have are bandaids and tampons.
  3. I'd be interested in a quad once I get my gun working properly.
  4. If you are talking about removing the entire gas block, it's on there tight. After removing the 2 lower pins, if you have access to a hydraulic press use it, otherwise you'll have to do what other people have done and stick a piece of heavy metal or brass in between the barrel and gas tube and start whacking away with a big hammer. The 20 is on there TIGHT.
  5. The Limbsaver is a custom grind to fit model 10544 I bought here http://www.walnutcre...hmdtda19i3ksqv7 I was all ready to fabricate an adapter plate but was happy to find that the holes line up close enough to go directly into the Tapco Warsaw stock. It will probably work BETTER with a standard wood WARSAW stock because you can plug the existing holes and drill new ones into the solid wood that perfectly match the mounting holes for the stock. The is plenty of material on the recoil pad as it comes to cover a wide range of stocks. You'll need to square up the stock so its flat on a
  6. Here is limbsaver Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  7. Ah, Jessie Abbate. Last I heard, she was shooting for S&W now. She's not listed on Team Glock's website anymore either. She's smoking hot. Yeah I heard she dropped Glock and maybe the next sponsor will take a photo that does her justice. Yeah, Just like Julie G she went from Glock to S&W. S&W now has a really strong women's team with Kay M., Julie and Jessie.
  8. Mine said 2001 with all the other roll marks on the receiver.....I assumed it was the year of manufacture.
  9. I might get blasted for this...but those small pocket guns like the Kel-Tec, Khar etc. aren't really meant to be shot a lot. Think about this, would you trust that little Kel-Tec or a Glock/XD/M&P to put 20k rounds through it over the course of a year? They are great for what they are intended for (deep concealment) and are ok to be shot occationally but for a CCW, primary and ONLY handgun I would suggest something more robust. A G19 is about the perfect size for a gun that fits a multi-role. You can carry it everyday, train with it without worrying about it breaking, shoot it in ID
  10. I have a 10" 9mm AR15. Takes UZI and Colt mags. You'll need a tax stamp if you want a barrel less than 16" but it is more "subgun" like. I shot a class 3 sub-gun match with it, won semi and also beat all the select-fire/full auto shooters. FA is overrated IMO.
  11. Probably because of this from the OP... "Wants a semiauto"
  12. budsgunshop also has a used section. I see a 2nd Gen G17 for $369, an XD for $379, a CZ for $389, a Sig etc...lots of guns under $400. FREE shipping and no tax, just have to pay the FFL transfer and background check so figure another $35-40. Any of them would be under the $450 limit. CDNN has good deals as well.
  13. Any of the polymer guns mentioned (Glock, XD, M&P) may cost a little more but their value and the gun itself is going to be better. The M&P has a $50 rebate and I've seen them for around $500 new. With tax and background check its going to put him over his limit. I don't know about you, but I'd skip a couple lunches and cut back on a few other things to come up with the extra cash before cheaping out with a Hi-point pistol. Like others have said, check the used market. I've seen Glocks for $375 before. I just sold a well worn but still serviceable M&P to a friend for $350..
  14. Just for reference, mine came with 3 holes from the factory, built 2001.
  15. Thanks. IIRC I cut very close to .75 as well. After some grinding and filing to get the muzzle square I ended up with .608 (close to light modified or IC for a 20 gauge). Should be perfect but I haven't patterned it yet.
  16. Another vote for the Smith & Wesson M&P. Excellent gun.
  17. Only way to tell is to pull the gasblock completely off and measure the ports. But if its working fine with low-brass on #2 gas setting then don't mess with it. When I did mine the ports were rough from the factory to say the least, 2 ports were also partially obscured by the gasblock. When you look in the gas block how many ports can you see? If you can only see one, take a paperclip and see if you can feel for any others near the front and if the gasblock is covering any of those holes. If you do end up opening up the ports you may be slightly over-gassed but it should run the light stuff
  18. See how she runs with low brass 2 3/4" shells. They are cheaper and will be easier on your gun if it will shoot it. many S20s need the gas ports opened up to run light loads, but try it first. You may need a wedge to use the 3" magazine with 2 3/4 shells. I'm not familar with the shells you are using, but generally 3" shells are a bit "healthier" even at 7/8ths load. You probably don't need that lighter recoil spring to run the 3" loads.Keep an eye on your gun for excess wear if you are using that spring without a buffer on setting #2 with heavy loads.
  19. Has anyone done a custom grind-to-fit Limbsaver on a Tapco or Kvar plastic stock? While the slip on should work fine, I'd prefer a cleaner look and a shorter pad. From the look of the stock it may need to be slightly squared first. I may be able to use the existing mounting holes, if not I'll have to make an aluminum mounting bracket and tap it for the recoil pad. The bracket mounts to stock and recoil pad mounts to the bracket. Another option would be to remove the existing mounting holes all together and fill the stock with foam filler and epoxy in a wood insert that I can screw the
  20. If you are sticking with iron sights i'd get the clamp on front sight tower and grind off the factory front sight as others have said. You can clock it where you want plus it will be more accurate and easier to lineup a shot because of the longer sight radius. Either that or get a red dot. The factory sights aren't exactly the hot setup IMHO.
  21. FINALLY got the gas block off! It took a big hunk of metal and a bigger hammer. Drilled my ports one size bigger and opened up the opening in the gas block to expose all the ports. Thanks for the tips!
  22. Thanks! This will be very helpful when I do the final fitting. I'll be sure not to go under this measurement.
  23. I just got done banging the hell out of it and it still didn't budge. I don't think a shelf bracket and a hammer is going to do it.
  24. Thanks for the info..... I didn't want to start hammering on it if that top pin was also holding it on!
  25. I read the 12 gauge tutorial but the 20 gasblock looks different? Those of you that have removed your gasblock from your 20 gauge....which pins do you remove? I have 2 lower pins and one upper pin (in between the gas tube and barrel. The 2 lower pins go all the way through and I can punch out easily, the upper pin looks like it doesn't go all the way though? Please see video. Do I need to remove this upper pin to get the gas block off and how do I get it out? When I look in the gas tube I can see one hole and feel 2 others that I think are being partially blocked by the gas block.
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